How can I make this faster?
Discussion
I currently have one of the two of these:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/si...
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/si...
in black as black is the fastest obviously.
I am up to circa 12 miles daily, but need to go faster. Can I swap any bits to go faster? Worth SPDing?
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/si...
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/si...
in black as black is the fastest obviously.
I am up to circa 12 miles daily, but need to go faster. Can I swap any bits to go faster? Worth SPDing?
Obvious free ones are to ensure tyres are fully inflated and the drive train is nice and clean and well set up. Wear tighter fitting clothing that doesn't flap about in the wind.
SPD's make a big difference to applying more power throughout the pedal stroke so would be a good first step.
Next obvious one is lighter tyres and wheels, although this starts to bring about a lot more expense for less proportional gains.
SPD's make a big difference to applying more power throughout the pedal stroke so would be a good first step.
Next obvious one is lighter tyres and wheels, although this starts to bring about a lot more expense for less proportional gains.
The best way to reduce weight is to eat less pies and drink less beer.
What the fella above said is right though. Condition and lubrication of drivetrain, correctly inflated tyres, and then probably spds.
Don't forget to check over the brakes. If you're going faster, you'll need to stop faster too...
What the fella above said is right though. Condition and lubrication of drivetrain, correctly inflated tyres, and then probably spds.
Don't forget to check over the brakes. If you're going faster, you'll need to stop faster too...
louiebaby said:
The best way to reduce weight is to eat less pies and drink less beer.
Sad but true. If you're anything like me you'll be able to remove less weight from the bike than you could from the rider.Is it worth looking at lower rolling resistance tyres? Different pressures maybe? Lighter wheels have a significant effect (despite what I said above) because it's rotational mass and you get a big reduction in inertia as well as a slight weight reduction.
for 99 quid you can get a pair of the planet x model b wheels which will make a world of difference. go to www.planet-x-warehouse.co.uk for more info. then have a google bike radar for some reviews, the people who have bought them rave about the quality. any other upgrade will not be worth the money...
I will give the drivetrain a going over - seems quite free turning by hand. Bit of normal oil on the bits?
Will look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
Will look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
Taita said:
I will give the drivetrain a going over - seems quite free turning by hand. Bit of normal oil on the bits?
Will look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
a good track pump is a worthwhile purchase, you can get them for around £25. i bought a "joe blow max" from wiggle and its been great. you should be running at about 90 psiWill look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
Taita said:
I will give the drivetrain a going over - seems quite free turning by hand. Bit of normal oil on the bits?
Will look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
I'm not sure you'll be able to get enough pressure into those tyres with a hand pump. I use a track pump and it's hard enough with that! I'd have thought you would want at least 110psi. I put in 120psi.Will look at becoming a lycra clad warrior.
I use a hand pump - to as hard as I can manage for the tyre pressures - but they don't seem to bend much when I push down on the bars etc. So I am assuming they are correct.
They have those different (non car tyre) valves on.
smoother drive train, Lycra, spd's wheels and get fitter.
Re tires, if you are doing road only on this hybrid then swap for some 23 or 21 tires and get the psi up to 120, will be a very firm ride but will give you significantly less rolling resistance.
Bit radical but you could get some tribars and a better aero helmet to reduce frontal area (wind resistance).
Remove anything superflous, bottle cages, bells, pumps, panniers, racks, mudguards, chains, locks & lights if possible in the day time etc.
Try to carry as little as possible to ensure you don't increase your weight on the bike, if your commuting leave as much stuff at work as you can.
Re tires, if you are doing road only on this hybrid then swap for some 23 or 21 tires and get the psi up to 120, will be a very firm ride but will give you significantly less rolling resistance.
Bit radical but you could get some tribars and a better aero helmet to reduce frontal area (wind resistance).
Remove anything superflous, bottle cages, bells, pumps, panniers, racks, mudguards, chains, locks & lights if possible in the day time etc.
Try to carry as little as possible to ensure you don't increase your weight on the bike, if your commuting leave as much stuff at work as you can.
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 7th April 13:57
23c will be faster, marginal but just like car mods you add it all together....
I run at 120psi which helps plus less chance of pinch flats, certainly helps you train your eye for potholes and learn early avoidance as those buggers HURT when you hit them then!
Tighter fitting clothing really helps - just losing the flappy shorts and jacket makes a difference especially this time of year where the weather is getting better but there's plenty of wind around.
Less weight, decent clearout before you ride
Aero doesn't really help that much on a commute, by the time you look at a true aero position you need to be in it for a fair amount of time and at a certain avg speed before real benefits are apparent - same for aero wheels too.
Most speed gains are around engine mods... i.e get those pistonlegs working hard and develop those leg muscles. After that weight loss.
P.S Red is the fastest bike colour, sorry
Black is still the coolest though
I run at 120psi which helps plus less chance of pinch flats, certainly helps you train your eye for potholes and learn early avoidance as those buggers HURT when you hit them then!
Tighter fitting clothing really helps - just losing the flappy shorts and jacket makes a difference especially this time of year where the weather is getting better but there's plenty of wind around.
Less weight, decent clearout before you ride
Aero doesn't really help that much on a commute, by the time you look at a true aero position you need to be in it for a fair amount of time and at a certain avg speed before real benefits are apparent - same for aero wheels too.
Most speed gains are around engine mods... i.e get those pistonlegs working hard and develop those leg muscles. After that weight loss.
P.S Red is the fastest bike colour, sorry
Black is still the coolest though 23-25 will be negilible and depending on your ride route etc may actually be benefical, the standard spec on this bike was 28 as far as I can tell and reducing that to 23/21 so it should have a bigger impact.
Incidentally I ride with 23 front & 25 on the rear as the extra contact patch(traction) & shock absorbtion on the rear where most of the weight is provides me with a better ride on longer stints on my hilly local rides.
Question for the OP,
Sorry I might have read this wrong, Are you saying you have both bikes and want to swap components to get the fastest bike from both?
If you are the only real difference beteen the two is the groupset better on the comp and the wheel hubs are better on the comp so no need to create a mish mash of the two, just go with the comp.
Incidentally I ride with 23 front & 25 on the rear as the extra contact patch(traction) & shock absorbtion on the rear where most of the weight is provides me with a better ride on longer stints on my hilly local rides.
Question for the OP,
Sorry I might have read this wrong, Are you saying you have both bikes and want to swap components to get the fastest bike from both?
If you are the only real difference beteen the two is the groupset better on the comp and the wheel hubs are better on the comp so no need to create a mish mash of the two, just go with the comp.
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 7th April 15:13
Keep everything on the bike, don't change anything, ride more.
I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
mchammer89 said:
Keep everything on the bike, don't change anything, ride more.
I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
Too true,an old rusty mtb with slicks, doing 50-100 miles a week got my fitness to a whole new level!!I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
TwistingMyMelon said:
mchammer89 said:
Keep everything on the bike, don't change anything, ride more.
I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
Too true,an old rusty mtb with slicks, doing 50-100 miles a week got my fitness to a whole new level!!I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 9th April 15:36
OneDs said:
TwistingMyMelon said:
mchammer89 said:
Keep everything on the bike, don't change anything, ride more.
I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
Too true,an old rusty mtb with slicks, doing 50-100 miles a week got my fitness to a whole new level!!I've got quite a few bikes at the minute, ranging from an 8 kilo fixed to a 17 kilo beach cruiser. Needless to say it's the beach cruiser that I do at least 100 miles/week on, and it's made me a much, much fitter rider than if I were riding around on some lightweight bike.
Edited by OneDs on Friday 9th April 15:36
If you simply want a fast bike with no other consideration then stick the biggest chainring possible on and the smallest cassette.
My assumption was that he wanted to swap parts between his two bikes one being a slightly higher spec bike than the other, I made the point that higher spec had the better (and wider btw) groupset so to stick with the higher spec bike and not change anything, just remove as much as possible
Any other suggestion regarding any purchases (except for SPD's) were not on the OP's wish list just ideas from subsequent posters including myself.
Any other suggestion regarding any purchases (except for SPD's) were not on the OP's wish list just ideas from subsequent posters including myself.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 9th April 15:57
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