Cyclocross bikes...
Discussion
Depends what you want the bike for.
If all your riding is done on road I would recommend the roadie. If you are ever going on towpaths etc. then get the cross bike - the extra rubber on the rims will make your life a lot comfier.
The only time I would recommend getting a cross bike that will only be used on the road is if you are planning on using it for year round commuting. I spent all winter riding about on 23s and some days was definitely wishing for something bigger.
If all your riding is done on road I would recommend the roadie. If you are ever going on towpaths etc. then get the cross bike - the extra rubber on the rims will make your life a lot comfier.
The only time I would recommend getting a cross bike that will only be used on the road is if you are planning on using it for year round commuting. I spent all winter riding about on 23s and some days was definitely wishing for something bigger.
t84 said:
Thanks for that, I take it with a roadie there is absolutely no leeway for hopping up a kerb and onto pavement, etc?
Depends - if you bunny hop properly and time it right then there is no reason why not - generally it isn't too good an idea though.Edit - found the video I was after - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqyyNrOIatU 40 secs in - bunny hop at 30+mph on a TT bike - like i said though, not too great an idea.
Edited by Parsnip on Sunday 30th May 20:48
te!! - ALWAY seem to squeek and squel!Proper cyclocross bikes are for racing cyclocross on - ie. going very quickly in the mud, and carried on the shoulder for bits that are unrideable. Like road racing bikes, they probably won't have any practical, weight-adding things like rack or mudguard mounts or much concession to comfort (especially in 'cross as the races are so short). Unless you actually race cyclocross, you probably won't want a proper cyclocross bike.
There are a lot of other less racy bikes though on 700c wheels with drop bars which are designed for the riding that a lot of people will do - a mix of all things on different surfaces.
There are a lot of other less racy bikes though on 700c wheels with drop bars which are designed for the riding that a lot of people will do - a mix of all things on different surfaces.
+1 for CX bikes.
The main difference that you'll notice is that the clearance above your tyres is far greater than you'd ever get on a road bike. This means you can run larger tyres which make for a much more comfortable ride. I run these on mine:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Par...
In the 35c size and I honestly couldn't be happier... pot holes are a worry of the past you can just ride through them. Does this make you any slower over a 23c tyre... who knows as whilst it may have more resistance you're more comfortable, accelerate through bumps and unless you're racing does it really matter? If so just switch to 23c for racing..
Note if you're using it for commuting and plan on a pannier rack not all racing spec CX bikes have these eyelets though many do, worth checking before hand.
Which are you considering?
The main difference that you'll notice is that the clearance above your tyres is far greater than you'd ever get on a road bike. This means you can run larger tyres which make for a much more comfortable ride. I run these on mine:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Par...
In the 35c size and I honestly couldn't be happier... pot holes are a worry of the past you can just ride through them. Does this make you any slower over a 23c tyre... who knows as whilst it may have more resistance you're more comfortable, accelerate through bumps and unless you're racing does it really matter? If so just switch to 23c for racing..
Note if you're using it for commuting and plan on a pannier rack not all racing spec CX bikes have these eyelets though many do, worth checking before hand.
Which are you considering?
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