Components vs Frame
Discussion
Currently have my eyes on a new bike (through the ride to work scheme) and am planning on stretching my budget to get something half decent.
The problem lies in where to spend the extra money, should I go for the bike with the better frame but cheaper other parts or should I go for a cheaper frame and make sure it has better gears/brakes/etc?
As an example, does moving from 2300 parts to Sora parts really make much of a difference?
The problem lies in where to spend the extra money, should I go for the bike with the better frame but cheaper other parts or should I go for a cheaper frame and make sure it has better gears/brakes/etc?
As an example, does moving from 2300 parts to Sora parts really make much of a difference?
I had this a similar discussion with the chap in the bike shop this morning over a Specialized Secteur which I'm thinking of getting to supplement the MTB.
Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else you can change as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else you can change as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
Edited by Dunk76 on Monday 5th July 23:56
Dunk76 said:
I had this a similar discussion with the chap in the bike shop this morning over a Specialized Secteur which I'm thinking of getting to supplement the MTB.
Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
EFA?Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
Mr Will said:
Dunk76 said:
I had this a similar discussion with the chap in the bike shop this morning over a Specialized Secteur which I'm thinking of getting to supplement the MTB.
Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
EFA?Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
I did try a more expensive Specialized, but the geometry was wrong for me; it was constantly trying to get away from underneath me at the back. Very awkward ride.
Anyway, my point was don't buy a frame on price - I've looked at everything from £1500 downwards, and plumped for just about the cheapest one I found. Not because it's cheap, but because it works for me. I don't see the point of paying for expensive ancillaries as a) I wouldn't notice much difference initially and b) they probably wouldn't be the upgrades I'd get anyway.
Mr Will said:
Dunk76 said:
I had this a similar discussion with the chap in the bike shop this morning over a Specialized Secteur which I'm thinking of getting to supplement the MTB.
Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
EFA?Do I spend £550, £650, or £999 on what is the same frame with different bits hanging off it?
Chap said something which seems to be a truism - roughly;
'Buy the expensive frame that's right for you in terms of geometry, fit, and weight, as everything else I can sell you for more money as and when your wallet and fitness dictates'
Well, assuming you want to enjoy the thing and get the best out of your investment in the meantime, I'd go for the best balance of frame and component quality that budget allows. There's loads of examples on here and in the mag reviews of really nice frames with just awful wheels and/or other no-brand finishing kit that can and will spoil the experience pretty quickly and end up costing big money to upgrade.
buy the best frame.. not whatever is the flashiest Rear Shifter. You can and will be upgrading bits if you really take to this sport. If the bike has an overly flash derailleur then its likely they have cut corners somewhere else, ie wheels or heavy seatposts and stems etc. But all those things can be changed at a later date (remember a pig in a dress is, still a pig in dress no matter how much you dress it up)
Always go with the better frame.
Also look at Focus or Canyon bikes from germany, awesome spec for little money but does require you to actually know what size bike you want.
Having said that, if you buy an average bike now, then you would likely upgrade come winter time to something better than average when the bike stores clear last years models.
Always go with the better frame.
Also look at Focus or Canyon bikes from germany, awesome spec for little money but does require you to actually know what size bike you want.
Having said that, if you buy an average bike now, then you would likely upgrade come winter time to something better than average when the bike stores clear last years models.
buy the best frame/forks, then wheels, then components. if you buy the best frame you can afford you can upgrade the parts that matter most in due course. you can buy bloody good factory built wheelsets for under £200 that can transform a bike.
no one needs an xtr front mech, i use deore as its functional and reliable. cost is commensurate with how ofen its used on the trails. upgraded rear mechs are a useful commodity given how often they are used and often what level of stress they get put under. same for shifters and cranks.
no one needs an xtr front mech, i use deore as its functional and reliable. cost is commensurate with how ofen its used on the trails. upgraded rear mechs are a useful commodity given how often they are used and often what level of stress they get put under. same for shifters and cranks.
BOR said:
It's madness buying a new bike with the intention of upgrading the parts. It's FAR more cost-effective to buy the spec of bike you want from day 1.
Parts wear out, you can't argue that. You will have to replace them. At the end of the day you're either gonna end up with your upgraded bike with a great frame, or your upgraded bike with an alright frame. I know which i'd rather have.The point about buying the best frame you can afford is a very good one - but the 'best frame' doesnt necessarily mean the most expensive frame - its the frame that fits you best. For a first foray back on to a bike you might not want to spend a huge sum, but if you spend a moderate amount you will end up with a bike you are happy to use in the winter while you keep the best bike for the summer - pretty much what I guess most people on here do with cars.
If your budget stretched into the £600 pound area you will find alot of bike shops are very willing to measure you up and make sure you get something customized for your body shape. There is another post on here pointing to a site that will tell you what size of bike to be looking at.
As for replacing components are you wear them out - I am a fairly upgrade-happy mountain bike rider, but in 4 years I have never had to replace anything but the disc brakes, but having owned a (£650) Trek 1.2 road bike I have upgraded the wheels and seat within two months of owning it, and will be replacing the brakes in the next month or so after an 'exciting' descent through some hills in North Devon.
Anyway, after all that - I have to agree with a previous post -
frame first, then wheels, then the rest - probably starting with the contact points of saddle and handlebar/grips.
If your budget stretched into the £600 pound area you will find alot of bike shops are very willing to measure you up and make sure you get something customized for your body shape. There is another post on here pointing to a site that will tell you what size of bike to be looking at.
As for replacing components are you wear them out - I am a fairly upgrade-happy mountain bike rider, but in 4 years I have never had to replace anything but the disc brakes, but having owned a (£650) Trek 1.2 road bike I have upgraded the wheels and seat within two months of owning it, and will be replacing the brakes in the next month or so after an 'exciting' descent through some hills in North Devon.
Anyway, after all that - I have to agree with a previous post -
frame first, then wheels, then the rest - probably starting with the contact points of saddle and handlebar/grips.
I'd definitely go for a better frame with the emphasis on finding someone can fit you to a frame properly.....a lot of people have a riding position that is way too agressive for them. Try a few bikes out and see which one you prefer. A bike shope that carries a really wide range of manufacturers and is in a great area for trial ride is Epic Cyles http://www.epic-cycles.co.uk/index.htm they'll also swap components for you I believe. I've never used them but a lot of people rate them very highly.
I'd also agree that upgrading your bike as you go along is very expensive. I bought my bike from Condor Cycles in London (who are expensive for what you get) but they build the bike exactly to your spec (6 week lead time) so you can have say 105 brakes and Dura Ace gear mech's. Or you can swap out the flashy factory wheels on the recommended build for a set of handbuilts which are cheaper, stronger, lighter and easier to fix...
I'd also agree that upgrading your bike as you go along is very expensive. I bought my bike from Condor Cycles in London (who are expensive for what you get) but they build the bike exactly to your spec (6 week lead time) so you can have say 105 brakes and Dura Ace gear mech's. Or you can swap out the flashy factory wheels on the recommended build for a set of handbuilts which are cheaper, stronger, lighter and easier to fix...
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