What to do when recommisioning a bike?
Discussion
So, my bike's been ignored for a good couple of years but I've decided I really should get off my arse and back on it.
I'm assuming the chain will probably need replacing, or at least a good soak, but what else should I be looking at? Things like the hubs - are they likely to need regreasing? Erm, here I run out of ideas...
I'm just glad I put it away clean
I'm assuming the chain will probably need replacing, or at least a good soak, but what else should I be looking at? Things like the hubs - are they likely to need regreasing? Erm, here I run out of ideas...
I'm just glad I put it away clean

If it's been stored in a nice dry garage/shed, then probably not a lot. My first thoughts would be to oil the chain, cables underneath the bottom bracket and the gear mechs. Then either hold it up on a stand or turn upside down on the floor and turn the pedals while flicking up and down the gears to see they all work.
Next would be to check the brakes move smoothly, often I find the calipers are a bit sticky on releasing after a lay-off, especially the rear ones. WD40 on the pivots first, dismantle & clean as last resort.
Then I'd go for a ride to see if anything else needed sorting. Headsets/pedals/hub bearings if working and greased before going away should be fine but if they've stood with water inside then it will be obvious when you ride it.
edit to add - I forgot the obvious one, pump up the tyres as hard as you can and check for cracks/splits and that the tubes hold air. Take a spare tube & tools on the first ride !
Next would be to check the brakes move smoothly, often I find the calipers are a bit sticky on releasing after a lay-off, especially the rear ones. WD40 on the pivots first, dismantle & clean as last resort.
Then I'd go for a ride to see if anything else needed sorting. Headsets/pedals/hub bearings if working and greased before going away should be fine but if they've stood with water inside then it will be obvious when you ride it.
edit to add - I forgot the obvious one, pump up the tyres as hard as you can and check for cracks/splits and that the tubes hold air. Take a spare tube & tools on the first ride !
Edited by b2hbm on Friday 8th October 11:11
Re Fluid depends on storage again; dry and you'll probably be ok, as I understand it the Dot 4 or 5.1 fluid used in bike hydraulic brakes does absorb water. Just find a safe hill to check for lever travel & fade, if it needs a flush and bleed, what brakes are they. Avid juicys are particulary easy to bleed, don't get the £50 avid kit, you can get a made up kit off ebay for £15.
I'm assuming you've got suspension (at least at the front) as well, a check on lockouts, rebound, preload and travel with a wipe over with some wd40 will help, all will be ok without hopefully resorting to a rebuild if they're worth it.
I'm assuming you've got suspension (at least at the front) as well, a check on lockouts, rebound, preload and travel with a wipe over with some wd40 will help, all will be ok without hopefully resorting to a rebuild if they're worth it.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 8th October 11:57
shalmaneser said:
Will need some air in the tyres!
Just a bit, and it took ages to find my pump.It all seems fine, just a couple of sticky links and the gear change is still spot on. The only issue is the rear brake needs a proper bleed as it's barely responsive even when pumped vigourously (ooer).
Anyone got any tips for bleeding a Shimano brake?
Edited by Bill on Tuesday 12th October 13:37
Depends on the model, they'll be a video tutorial somewhere if you want to attempt it yourself.
Here's one on youtube for M595.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKueHUBM0J0
Here's one on youtube for M595.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKueHUBM0J0
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