Single speed gear ratios
Discussion
I'm seriously tempted by a 2010 model Specialized langster as a cheap commuter (London) to save my roadie from becoming abused, however, most of the reviews mention that they're slightly under-geared so I will probably end up changing this at some point (no doubt I'll try it first). I'm more of an Ulrich than an Armstrong when it comes to riding style on the roadie so wondered what sort of gear ratios people are using on their single speeds. I'm assuming my commute will be reasonbly flat and since I have a different bike for weekend riding then it won't need to be used for hills so tempted to go for quite a big gear.
y282 said:
starting/overall common one is 32:16, but i find that a little low personally and i'm not that good a cyclist. that's the standard tho.
32:16 is normal for singlespeed MTBs, it'll be way way too low for a singlespeed roadbike.I ran 38:16 fixed on my old Langster, and am currently running 42:18 fixed on the Tricross and 46:18 or 46:19 fixed on the Bob Jackson. It's a bit hilly round here though.
3216 said:
y282 said:
starting/overall common one is 32:16, but i find that a little low personally and i'm not that good a cyclist. that's the standard tho.
32:16 is normal for singlespeed MTBs, it'll be way way too low for a singlespeed roadbike.I ran 38:16 fixed on my old Langster, and am currently running 42:18 fixed on the Tricross and 46:18 or 46:19 fixed on the Bob Jackson. It's a bit hilly round here though.

Edited by AyBee on Wednesday 24th November 23:28
As you say just try single speeding on your current road bike, whatever ratio you feel comfortable using then translate that to the langster or even -1 on the back and maybe +2 on the front to give you a challenge or to make up for saved rotating weight and lack of transmission losses.
If you can't get a the same teeth on the front then just play with the combinations until you get the same desired ratio.
If you can't get a the same teeth on the front then just play with the combinations until you get the same desired ratio.
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 25th November 09:32
Buy it and try it. 42-16 stock, I think? Depending on your riding style and commute, I'd say that would be about spot on. You're not going to want to go any lower unless you have real hills to ride up, but if you're commuting through traffic with lights, junctions, roundabouts etc then you're not going to want a massive gear that's going to be a pain pulling away that never gets properly into it's stride.
I have 3 and they're 42-18 (ss town bike with rack and bags for lugging stuff about), 42-17 (fixed training/general purpose bike that gets used from bombing about town to 80+ mile rides through the hills of Scotland) and 48-15 (fixed TT bike).
I have 3 and they're 42-18 (ss town bike with rack and bags for lugging stuff about), 42-17 (fixed training/general purpose bike that gets used from bombing about town to 80+ mile rides through the hills of Scotland) and 48-15 (fixed TT bike).
Uriel said:
Buy it and try it. 42-16 stock, I think? Depending on your riding style and commute, I'd say that would be about spot on. You're not going to want to go any lower unless you have real hills to ride up, but if you're commuting through traffic with lights, junctions, roundabouts etc then you're not going to want a massive gear that's going to be a pain pulling away that never gets properly into it's stride.
I have 3 and they're 42-18 (ss town bike with rack and bags for lugging stuff about), 42-17 (fixed training/general purpose bike that gets used from bombing about town to 80+ mile rides through the hills of Scotland) and 48-15 (fixed TT bike).
+1I have 3 and they're 42-18 (ss town bike with rack and bags for lugging stuff about), 42-17 (fixed training/general purpose bike that gets used from bombing about town to 80+ mile rides through the hills of Scotland) and 48-15 (fixed TT bike).
42-16 is perfectly acceptable, works out about 69GI. On my Langster i'd upped it slightly to 44-15 to give 78.5 which was spot on for me, enough to get up the steepest hill I ride and enough to keep me from completely spinning out going downhill. Clocked myself at over 170rpm at one point!
I have 39:13, changed up from stock 39:16 which had me spinning-out on any sort of downhill.
I am certainly out of the saddle from the lights but up to cruising speed within say 6 revolutions.
14T/15T freewheels are £20 although you need a special tool to replace it (£5 from Tokyo Fixed Gear).
Or go fixed.
The fixed cog is probably a 15T since they tend to have more teeth on the freewheel.
Fixed cogs are more like £10 to buy but you need a chain whip and a lock-ring tool to change them (Or take it to your LBS).
I think those stealthy matt black Langsters are awesome but I would probably buy one from gumtree if I could be sure it wasn't nicked. There are usually loads.
http://www.gumtree.com/london/56/67445756.html
£350 is too much second hand since they are £360 brand new here:
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/specialized-langste...
I am certainly out of the saddle from the lights but up to cruising speed within say 6 revolutions.
14T/15T freewheels are £20 although you need a special tool to replace it (£5 from Tokyo Fixed Gear).
Or go fixed.
The fixed cog is probably a 15T since they tend to have more teeth on the freewheel.
Fixed cogs are more like £10 to buy but you need a chain whip and a lock-ring tool to change them (Or take it to your LBS).
I think those stealthy matt black Langsters are awesome but I would probably buy one from gumtree if I could be sure it wasn't nicked. There are usually loads.
http://www.gumtree.com/london/56/67445756.html
£350 is too much second hand since they are £360 brand new here:
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/specialized-langste...
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Unfortunately I think I'd go Alu, I admit that looks awesome but I'm not sure I'd look as awesome riding it in my lycra
The steel one is more for the posers IMO
Heard you can remove the stickers from the Alu bike to make it quite discrete so it would suit me fine 
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