Fine tuning Shimano 105 5700..
Discussion
Anybody give me any tips here? Built up my own bike and have the Shimano 105 5700 compact chainset and matching derailleurs, etc.
I've got it shifting fairly accurately on both the front and the back but seem to end up in a situation on the rear where it's quiet / accurate in the low gears but seems to get noisy in the high gears.. and if I adjust accordingly, I end up reversing the situation.
Pretty sure I've got my high / low set right so it does just seem to be down to barrel adjustment - but I just can't seem to get it behaving. Any tips?
I've got it shifting fairly accurately on both the front and the back but seem to end up in a situation on the rear where it's quiet / accurate in the low gears but seems to get noisy in the high gears.. and if I adjust accordingly, I end up reversing the situation.
Pretty sure I've got my high / low set right so it does just seem to be down to barrel adjustment - but I just can't seem to get it behaving. Any tips?
Front mech needs a bit of adjustment. You should have a hidden "click" between the smaller and larger front rings that allows you a little leeway when cross chaining. Try half-pressing your shifter in and see if you can locate the hidden click. The actual technical term is "trimming"
pablo said:
are you using an old chain? chains tend to wear with casettes and mechs so they can be jumpy for a while if mixed
It's all brand spanking new. Bought a complete 105 5700 groupset for the build and it included the chain.Thanks for the tips on the front mech - I'll have another fight with that then!
What I have learnt is that it only take this rear mech to be a bit out of alignment and you can have a nightmare with the indexing. I have had it where every combination of gears is sweet bar 1.
The trick? Well you have to twist the mech just a touch so that it runs sweet in that combo to. I do mean very small tweaky type twists though.
Did the self same thing again this weekend. 105 compact group set with 11-25 5700 cassette and SRAM 1091r chain. A bit of fettling and it was sorted.
ETA: I usually run 5600 and 1070 but it was cheaper doing the above given a couple of eBay prices.
The trick? Well you have to twist the mech just a touch so that it runs sweet in that combo to. I do mean very small tweaky type twists though.
Did the self same thing again this weekend. 105 compact group set with 11-25 5700 cassette and SRAM 1091r chain. A bit of fettling and it was sorted.
ETA: I usually run 5600 and 1070 but it was cheaper doing the above given a couple of eBay prices.
Edited by Matt London on Monday 14th March 21:14
I've just rebuilt my bike with DA 7900, the procedures the same I think.
Firstly, if you're using a new Shimano chain I think they're unidirectional. The writing on the side plates should be facing out. Ensure your chain is the correct length too. On the smallest rear sprocket & biggest chainring the guide pulleys on the rear mech should be at about 90* to the floor. I run a 53/12 set-up & had to take a couple of links out. If you're using a compact I'd imagine you'd have to remove a good few more.
Ensure the H & L limits are set correctly. High is set correctly when the rear mech pulley is directly below the largest rear sproket(easier to fo with chain off & pushing mech over manually). Low is correct with the pulley slightly to the outside of the smallest sprocket.
I'd then attach the cable & take out the slack. With the bike on the smallest sprocket one click inwards should shift the dérailleur up onto the next sprocket. If it doesn't go across increase cable tension with the barrel adjuster(1/4 turn at a time). Likewise if the mech moves too much take a bit of tension out of the cable.
If you are using anything bigger than a 25 on the rear sprocket you'll need to wind in the b-tension adjuster. This will move the guide pulleys away from the sprockets & not snag the chain.
Firstly, if you're using a new Shimano chain I think they're unidirectional. The writing on the side plates should be facing out. Ensure your chain is the correct length too. On the smallest rear sprocket & biggest chainring the guide pulleys on the rear mech should be at about 90* to the floor. I run a 53/12 set-up & had to take a couple of links out. If you're using a compact I'd imagine you'd have to remove a good few more.
Ensure the H & L limits are set correctly. High is set correctly when the rear mech pulley is directly below the largest rear sproket(easier to fo with chain off & pushing mech over manually). Low is correct with the pulley slightly to the outside of the smallest sprocket.
I'd then attach the cable & take out the slack. With the bike on the smallest sprocket one click inwards should shift the dérailleur up onto the next sprocket. If it doesn't go across increase cable tension with the barrel adjuster(1/4 turn at a time). Likewise if the mech moves too much take a bit of tension out of the cable.
If you are using anything bigger than a 25 on the rear sprocket you'll need to wind in the b-tension adjuster. This will move the guide pulleys away from the sprockets & not snag the chain.
Cheers guys - some good info here.
I did shorten the chain according to the info provided by Shimano but still think it's too long.. I've found when on the smallest cogs (front & rear) the chain is really quite slack - which doesn't seem right.
I've just had some KMC Missing Links come through the post as well as new gear cables and end caps so I'm getting tempted to pull it all out and start over, and try set everything up from scratch when I separate the chain. One last ditch attempt before I relent and get it over to the LBS
I did shorten the chain according to the info provided by Shimano but still think it's too long.. I've found when on the smallest cogs (front & rear) the chain is really quite slack - which doesn't seem right.
I've just had some KMC Missing Links come through the post as well as new gear cables and end caps so I'm getting tempted to pull it all out and start over, and try set everything up from scratch when I separate the chain. One last ditch attempt before I relent and get it over to the LBS
Chicane-UK said:
I did shorten the chain according to the info provided by Shimano but still think it's too long.. I've found when on the smallest cogs (front & rear) the chain is really quite slack - which doesn't seem right.
Wait right therePut the chain into the largest front ring and the smallest rear. When the chain is the correct length your rear mech should be 90 degrees from the ground through the rear wheel axle and passing through the two jockey wheels in the mech.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content...
Chicane-UK said:
Cheers guys - some good info here.
I did shorten the chain according to the info provided by Shimano but still think it's too long.. I've found when on the smallest cogs (front & rear) the chain is really quite slack - which doesn't seem right.
I've just had some KMC Missing Links come through the post as well as new gear cables and end caps so I'm getting tempted to pull it all out and start over, and try set everything up from scratch when I separate the chain. One last ditch attempt before I relent and get it over to the LBS
It will be loose in that combination, you shouldn't ever be using it in practice.I did shorten the chain according to the info provided by Shimano but still think it's too long.. I've found when on the smallest cogs (front & rear) the chain is really quite slack - which doesn't seem right.
I've just had some KMC Missing Links come through the post as well as new gear cables and end caps so I'm getting tempted to pull it all out and start over, and try set everything up from scratch when I separate the chain. One last ditch attempt before I relent and get it over to the LBS
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