Discussion
I would love to go procharger but I dont think I could afford it with my budget. I would have to go 4 bolt mains if I go forced induction for piece of mind.
What ever I decide I think I will sell my engine as it 12:1 comp, and no good for forced induction.
So I guess my budget is 10K + what ever I get for my 468
What ever I decide I think I will sell my engine as it 12:1 comp, and no good for forced induction.
So I guess my budget is 10K + what ever I get for my 468
Edited by marT350T on Sunday 18th April 01:09
On the engine ring Kenny Coleman at EDA in Castleford and run through your whole combination with him - you will not be disappointed as he really knows his stuff.
Just remember some of your bigget ET improvements can come from the car itself; it has to be fit for the extra power you want to apply otherwise you'll just be losing it through chassis twist and tirespin because of weak structure, incorrect springing and drivetrain geometry.
Just remember some of your bigget ET improvements can come from the car itself; it has to be fit for the extra power you want to apply otherwise you'll just be losing it through chassis twist and tirespin because of weak structure, incorrect springing and drivetrain geometry.
"It's fixable" gives good advice. Decide if your budget is for a stronger motor or is it a budget to go faster? Losing a few hundred pounds by changing front end parts for lightweight items and installing a rear clip with tubs and a 4-link will probably buy your more ET than just throwing in more HP. The cheapest way of getting HP is by using a mild NOS kit. It's all about balance.
Thanks for the replies. There a few reasons for my new engine , firstly to go faster but I want a more streetable engine as my 69 camaro will be put on the road next year.
My car has a fibreglass front end tubbed 4 links etc etc so there has been a lot of weight taken out of it and Im sure the chassis can handle more power.
I have talked to EDA and John Sleath so I have to make up my mind which route I will go down.
With my 10K budget do you think I could buy a 2nd hand short block with good pistons rods and crank use my heads intake , get my carb converted to a blow through and still afford a procharger ?
In fact how much are pro charger kits? I have sent Topspeed automotive an email about this as they are a uk dealer but not heard anything back yet. I was thinking along the lines of a F-1R / F-2.
My car has a fibreglass front end tubbed 4 links etc etc so there has been a lot of weight taken out of it and Im sure the chassis can handle more power.
I have talked to EDA and John Sleath so I have to make up my mind which route I will go down.
With my 10K budget do you think I could buy a 2nd hand short block with good pistons rods and crank use my heads intake , get my carb converted to a blow through and still afford a procharger ?
In fact how much are pro charger kits? I have sent Topspeed automotive an email about this as they are a uk dealer but not heard anything back yet. I was thinking along the lines of a F-1R / F-2.
a super mod type engine would be ideal for your intentions as they are small engines with small cams so would be easy on the street but can still make 1300 hp on a 5 lb n20 bottle for racing and hardly ever go wrong at that level, asuming you dont need that amount of power it can be tuned softer and last forever andy hones 7.3 sec 180+ MPH car weighs 2600 lbs and has a 461 ci BBC and these motors dont need much maintainance,
That's the route I was thinking would be suitable. Our super mod motor is a 489 bbc with tunnel ram and twin dominators. We run a maximum .600 lift cam cause that's all were allowed in the rules, that's a smaller cam than most street cars have. When we ran the auto box we ran 7.72 as a best with a 5ilb nitrous bottle. Our engine never got hot, and apart from valve lash needre very little maintenance. On the motor alone without the gas we would run 8.70's. Our car weighs 2700 ilbs. As said before the best people to talk to about these type of engines woupd be Jeff bull or rob Loaring ice automotive. Our motor cost less than 10k to build, yet as badbird says makes in the region of 1200-1300hp with gas. Super mod is a class of non turbo, non super charged doorslammers that run in the seven second zone. Just a thought.
marT350T said:
I beleive ICE automotive built the motor I have now. I will give them a call and see what they suggest.
Going back to the super mod engine how much nitrous do you run to get high 7s / low 8s, and Im guess there not running on pump gas ?
I can answer this because we don't run in the class anymore, I have no secrets like Craig ha ha....Going back to the super mod engine how much nitrous do you run to get high 7s / low 8s, and Im guess there not running on pump gas ?
Edited by marT350T on Tuesday 20th April 02:30
Our steel bodied '67 Camaro weighed 2840lbs and ran 7.61 @ 184 with a production headed, iron block 509ci Chevy. We used to use around 3.5 to 4lbs of nitrous on a run (through the regulation "cheater" solenoids and with the aforementioned puny camshaft) and always used C16 fuel. Pump gas was out of the question because of the amount of ignition timing advance and compression that was needed...thanks to the camshaft, intake valve size and lift, nitrous bottle and solenoid restrictions etc, plenty of timing and squeeze was one of the ways to make power. That's not to say a Super Mod engine CAN'T run on pump gas though, I'm sure with a little less timing and a lower compression ratio it'd work great, I'm sure you wouldn't want to be squeezing every last hp out of the thing looking for mid sevens like we were!
As a budget friendly way to make serious power if it's required, a Super Mod type engine would indeed be great for what you're asking of it I reckon. Like others have said, thanks to the soft cam they're very maintenance friendly; we never damaged a single thing with our engine, not even as much as a nipped spark plug. We'd check the lash as a matter of course but it never moved over the duration of a meeting.
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 20th April 18:07
Going back to the super mod engine, If I was to get one built along the same line but had the compression at say 10:1 so I could use pump gas would that still give me a good alround package and run low 9s /high 8s using a small amount of nitrous ?
I have just put a cheater system on my car for this season , only plan on using 150 shot though. Going a little off topic my cheater system instructions tell me to square off the n20 and fuel jets ( ie run the same size fuel and nitrous jets) but I have seen on the internet this will be a really rich set up. I was just wondering how you jet your car ?
Or maybe you are direct port are you ?
I run 32* total timing plan on pulling 5* at first on nitrous and see how it goes( 150 shot). I have -8 plugs 6 psi fuel pressure
Any advice on the nitrous side would be good as I am a novice.
Thanks
Thanks lee lol! Be careful with timing its the quickest way of burning a nitrous motor. Always start on the safer side, read your plugs and go from there. The motor will tell you what it wants. We really do squeeze every last drop out of these motors to get them into the sevens, but I don't see any reson why a lower compression, pump gas version wouldn't run an eight, with the right tune up. As far as jetting is concerned you haven't mentioned jet sizes but square jetting is a good place to start albeit you may find it a tad rich, but again read the plugs, the key here is read the plugs, they don't lie. As already said, I think this type of engine would be perfect for you, there's actually three guys that know how to put these together pretty damn well, as mentioned Jeff bull and rob Loaring, but also clive bond as I'm sure lee would agree.
Gassing Station | Drag Racing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff