bmw plastic windows

[gav dunn]

hi, im after plastic/polycarbonate windows for my bmw 3 series e36, does anyone know where i can order them from. thanks

[lol1]

Gavin,

Try this lot for starters. Not cheap though.

http://www.xlraceparts.com/specialist-windows-435-...

Also I think you will have to go for the 4mm thick ones not the 3mm.

Edited by lol1 on Saturday 28th November 10:18

[sniff diesel]

Be carefull with XLraceparts, they've recently changed ownership and aren't delivering anything ordered before they took over.

Chris Ransley at CR Mtec has some nice kits:

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/CR-M-Tech-BMW-E36-an...

There's a thread on them here:

http://www.bmwowner.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&a...

[FLD_WILLIS]

www.plastics4performance.co.uk

If they don't already make them (which I'm sure they do), then they'll rustle you some up for with a very reasonable deal.

• EDIT*

See here;

http://www.plastics4performance.com/search.asp?str...

Edited by FLD_WILLIS on Saturday 28th November 19:15

[GC8]

If they dont need forming (which virtually all windows from framed doors will not), then you can make your own, using your original glass as a template. All you need to worry about is buying polycarbonate sheet at the right price. It does seem to be a product where vendors apply silly mark-ups, if you arent wary.

Personally, Id use 4mm acrylic (tradename Perspex), because it is FAR more resistant to scratching than polycarbonate (tradename Lexan or Makrolon), even very expensive Margard. This being a forum therell be someone falling over themselves to tell you that Perspex shatters and 'is dangerous' (one muppet even berated me for using acrylic for my GTS headlamps, as it 'would quickly shatter'; telling me that I should use PC- despite Porsche using acrylic originally and knowing nothing PC being hard to form due to its high water content and completely failing to grasp that it was far stronger than the glass usually found in headlamps...), but the truth is that it is far, far more resistant to damage than toughened glass; although it is less hardy than PC. If youre worried about safety then you could either film-line the interior of the drivers drop glass, or use polycarbonate for that single piece and expect to replace it more often.

[FLD_WILLIS]

Indeed Perspex is a good alternative, I'm using a sheet of it for my sunroof, very easy material to cut and finish.

Good prices, fast, friendly service; www.trentplastics.co.uk

[cytefx]

Performance4plastics have supplied a few cars in the Kumho, they do need forming for the front doors as they are frameless, and also a lot of drivers have additional supports on the front windows to keep them from moving about under speed.

[gav dunn]

thanks for everyones advice, i spoke to someone at demon tweeks today and they do them to fit my e36, going to cost £350-£400. does that sound about right?

[benny.c]

Sounds expensive to me but I assume that includes front and rear screens. We did our side windows ourselves for about £50 and decided not to do the screens. We may do the rear one day but the front just seems like a hassle. It'll scratch over time and tear offs cost a fortune if you go down that route.

A new glass screen costs £100 (ish) fitted, by the usual mobile windscreen fitters, which is great for when you crack it...and you will crack it if you are running stiff suspension and use the kerbs

[TheEnd]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E36-M3-COUPE-Polycarbona...

Similar price to here.
You can also see the extra options. 20kgs is a pretty big saving too

[gav dunn]

it doesnt include front screen, and i do about 12-15 track days a year, so i was planning on leaving the front windscreen in and renewing it every year hopefully. (unless it gets damaged before)

[TheEnd]

gav dunn said:

it doesnt include front screen, and i do about 12-15 track days a year, so i was planning on leaving the front windscreen in and renewing it every year hopefully. (unless it gets damaged before)

ah.. front screens....

well, due to plastic getting scratched, i wouldn't go for a front plastic screen
http://ramsport.com/shop/index.php?main_page=produ...

This will get you a heated front screen, and with that, you can junk the heater matrix and pipes, which should be an overall better weight saving, and you won't get swirls and hazing, so no need for periodic swaps

[benny.c]

TheEnd said:

This will get you a heated front screen, and with that, you can junk the heater matrix and pipes, which should be an overall better weight saving, and you won't get swirls and hazing, so no need for periodic swaps

Another option is to fit a NACA duct to the rear side window and run a flexible pipe to the front screen. Works great on ours and we've never had a problem with misting, even on a proper wet day.

We were thinking of the heated screen but didn't fancy the cost of replacing it when it cracks. £205 isn't bad though.

Edited by benny.c on Monday 30th November 23:30

[GC8]

Duct and hose is good for ventilation and itll make up for the windows being fixed, but its less than ideal for clearing your screen. Whilst youre on the move it might work, but when youre holding or on the line somewhere itll be useless.

If you have to remove the heater (to seal the bulkhead), then you should still retain the blower, as its worth its weight twice over...

[cytefx]

a few of teh kumho cars have mini hair dryers mounted inside the dash's powered from 12V

I have heated screen, but a few have said they are simple to crack (mine got chipped but autoglass repaired it for free)

the windows were on offer around halloween, but think it was about £350-£400 for side and rear screens all formed ones. Did think about it as the weight saving would be nice, but with Xmas coming need to save a little cash.

[GC8]

Ive had a ceramic heater: it was about as much use as a small asthmatic kitten, coughing warm breath onto the screen.....

[sniff diesel]

GC8 said:

If you have to remove the heater (to seal the bulkhead), then you should still retain the blower, as its worth its weight twice over...

Yep, one of my regrets after having done 2 wet trackdays this year is removing the blower. Being able to see where you're going is worth several seconds a lap, the couple of kgs saved is worth probably 0.0001 secs a lap.

These lot do cheap heated screens too:

http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/cgi-bin/ca000001.p...

[benny.c]

GC8 said:

Duct and hose is good for ventilation and itll make up for the windows being fixed, but its less than ideal for clearing your screen. Whilst youre on the move it might work, but when youre holding or on the line somewhere itll be useless.

I've done three wet trackdays in it now and never had a problem. The hose is fixed to the cage and is directed down the screen. Maybe because we have no window and boot seals in the car, we get good ventilation? On trackdays you can keep your door open when being held but I guess on a race car it would be more of a problem.

It certainly helps to keep the inside of the screen nice and clean.

My track Porsche has the heater removed but the blower has been retained. That steams up really easily but I think that is because the cabin is so small and well sealed. I wont be taking it on a wet trackday anyway

Edited by benny.c on Tuesday 1st December 21:46