Racing wets for trackdays - no softer?

[Walton]

I normally use R888s on my Atom, but after several frustrating wet cold trackdays where grip is literally ZERO I've decided to get some racing wets.

I've just taken delivery of some Dunlop CR9000 (404 compound), but tbh I'm sceptical how useful they'll be as they seem harder than my R888s with a fingernail/biro test.

Before I start using them can anyone advise if this is correct, as my understanding about 'wets' is that they provide greater grip by being much softer than dry tyres - is the actual compound different in some other way?

Thanks

[21TonyK]

My very basic understanding is that it is more to do with water displacement than compound although this would come into it. 888's don't really clear the water at all. Compare google images of 888's and the new r-1r and it's obvious which will clear water more effectively.

[Walton]

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure the compound is supposed to be very different - I'm just not sure if it's softer or some other chemical stuff that makes them work. In races you can see drivers with wets trying to stay in the wet stuff even when a dry line develops, otherwise their tyres will overheat and fall apart in few laps.

[number2]

I think that's because of the movement of the tread (not necessarily a softer compound) creating heat and wearing out the tyre - the water will cool it down. I could well be talking out my bottom though

[cwin]

A proper wet racing tyre has a much softer compound than a road tyre, you will need to change them straight away a soon as it starts to dry out or you will fry them in a few laps.

You can't realy tell by poking them with your fingernail as they will change when you start to get a little heat into them.

I have a set of 888s which i had cut into wets for my Atom and they work quite well, but a proper wet is in a different league.

[BenElliottRacing]

edited after googleing the tyres.

These will give you a load more grip than the 888

I did a days tuition in my old elise at pembrey 3 or so years ago and the car was as fast on these in the wet as it was on SP9000 road tyres on the dry.

keep your runs down to 15 minutes or so when its dry (in the cold). you will feel the tyres go off as it'll feel like you're driving on jelly!!

Andy Smith (atom120) used these with no issues.

I take it you're trailoring the car - these tyres are not road legal.

Edited by BenElliottRacing on Saturday 20th February 22:21

Edited by BenElliottRacing on Saturday 20th February 22:33

[Walton]

Hi Ben

Yes, these are the full fat 'for competition use only' racing wets - control tyre in BTCC. I'll be trailering so no probs there. I just expected them to be putty soft for some reason.

I'll give you a shout in the next few weeks about some more tuition.

Rich (Bedford, Rockingham - Orange Atom)

Edited by Walton on Saturday 20th February 22:40

[Guillotine]

R888s are fantastic on a drying track or on a wetting track, but only when pushed.

I raced on them a few times as inters and while you can keep the heat in they are great, but once the water drops the temperature they're very slippy.

Wets are for water. Full stop. If you don't have standing water they will last around 10 laps. However, if it is WET, they are as much of an improvement as slicks are to road tyres...maybe evn more. Standing water/rain...fantastic.
Dry line...get your R888s back on.

Andy

[BenElliottRacing]

Andy this type of Dunlop aren't particularly soft and don't have a 'block' type tread pattern. They can take a lot of abuse on a light car in dry conditions. I once did a whole qualifying session with a dry line on these and that were fine.

Hi Richard didn't realise it was you!

Edited by BenElliottRacing on Sunday 21st February 13:27

[Walton]

Gave them a short run on a damp/dry private road.

They were very very slippy until the mouldings scrubbed off, then they gave loads of grip, apart from under braking where strangely they were locking early - played with brake bias without much improvement. After a few standing starts/lock ups the rears were just beginning to start flaking, and tyres felt very 'squidgy'.

Car seemed a bit more nervous at higher speeds, but this could be down to dropping the rear ride height by 1".

Will be trying them in anger in the next week or so.

[flemke]

Guillotine said:

R888s are fantastic on a drying track or on a wetting track, but only when pushed.

I raced on them a few times as inters and while you can keep the heat in they are great, but once the water drops the temperature they're very slippy.

Wets are for water. Full stop. If you don't have standing water they will last around 10 laps. However, if it is WET, they are as much of an improvement as slicks are to road tyres...maybe evn more. Standing water/rain...fantastic.
Dry line...get your R888s back on.

Andy

Without standing water, only 10 laps, as in, 25 miles?
Obviously it would depend on many variables, but so long as the line stays wet, you can get 100 useful miles or more out of a set of wets. Standing water makes full wets imperative, but their compound and block movement are designed to be optimal so long as surface wetness retards heat build-up in the tyre.

[Guillotine]

Flemke / Ben

All true, I was trying to keep it general. Pointing out the difficulties "when coming onto a dry line" or "when staying out in damper conditions".
The swapping of tyres for trackday guys is a real fag and is avoided where possible as you can stay in for 20 mins till conditions are certain, but when racing its a necessity, done at the drop of a hat as when ya gotta go...ya gotta go.
I was just making the point that staying out for a session with wets when they're wrong will kill them. At £600+ a set TD guys will expect a lot of miles from them. Not dangerous, just expensive.

Best left for standing water IMHO.

I still have a set thats 3 years old and very usable.
Andy