Info Needed For NEW E46 M3 Owner To Be Please!!!!!!!!!!!!
Discussion
Hi all I'm new to Piston Head Forums and especially MPower section so seasons greetings to everyone.
Right the time has come in my life to finally own my first M3. (the mrs has agreed)
What I'm looking at tomorrow is a 2002 BMW E46 M3
All I know its apparently had all recalls done and servicing has been kept up. It was last serviced at Sytners Leicester and the last owner has only done 14000miles in the last 3 years of owning it. The car has done 70000miles to date.
Its a hard top and its Manual gear box.
Could I ask kindly for advise in what I need to look for in this age and model of BMW please??
I've done some reading etc but theres plenty more to be done!!!
Basically I would like some sort of checklist ready and prepared so I don't get blinded by the beauty and power of the test drive.
I'm thinking what servicing it should of had done?
What recalls for the age and model? And if the recalls can be still done by BMW even at its age?
What to look for in problem wise if it hasn't been sorted etc And what problems can occur.
What should be maintained with no expense spared.
And everything anyone else can think of to help me please
Reason for asking is I owned a Honda Civic Type R once which I bought from a used car dealer and ended up with a gearbox problem and a 2k bill, luckily I got 3 months warranty and everything was covered apart from a new clutch I paid for myself which was optional but made sense to do so.
I know it comes with the nature of owning cars and especially performance etc but just want to give myself a head start whilst viewing.
Some advise on servicing prices and maintenance/parts cost would be helpful to.
Cheers everyone all info appreciated.
Right the time has come in my life to finally own my first M3. (the mrs has agreed)
What I'm looking at tomorrow is a 2002 BMW E46 M3
All I know its apparently had all recalls done and servicing has been kept up. It was last serviced at Sytners Leicester and the last owner has only done 14000miles in the last 3 years of owning it. The car has done 70000miles to date.
Its a hard top and its Manual gear box.
Could I ask kindly for advise in what I need to look for in this age and model of BMW please??
I've done some reading etc but theres plenty more to be done!!!
Basically I would like some sort of checklist ready and prepared so I don't get blinded by the beauty and power of the test drive.
I'm thinking what servicing it should of had done?
What recalls for the age and model? And if the recalls can be still done by BMW even at its age?
What to look for in problem wise if it hasn't been sorted etc And what problems can occur.
What should be maintained with no expense spared.
And everything anyone else can think of to help me please
Reason for asking is I owned a Honda Civic Type R once which I bought from a used car dealer and ended up with a gearbox problem and a 2k bill, luckily I got 3 months warranty and everything was covered apart from a new clutch I paid for myself which was optional but made sense to do so.
I know it comes with the nature of owning cars and especially performance etc but just want to give myself a head start whilst viewing.
Some advise on servicing prices and maintenance/parts cost would be helpful to.
Cheers everyone all info appreciated.
Hi and welcome
Got my Imola red M3 a few months ago, and it is simply great. I bought at the bottom of the market, but with all the options I needed (except the roof), a full history file of all its bills and in good nick. I did an oil change, checked it over and the only thing it needs is some front pads. It had some fault lights on (aftermarket lights), a duff abs sensor and a few other bits. I am 90% through retrofitting the bluetooth and it has had a bit of a clean. I need to refurb the wheels, and I popped on some new rear tyres.
I just got done with fitting the clubsport gear knob, which was a doddle and simply a great mod. I have used it whilst the Tuscan has a few jobs and it is simply stunning, quick, comfortable and quick good on fuel.
In terms of a checklist, these are things I have found
Check for accident damage.
Check the clutch, around £500 in parts
Check when it had a Insp 2 as it should have the shims done
Check rear springs (they break)
Check the floor for checks (may need to go up on a ramp)
Check the service history has no gaps and has been serviced at the right times and not just at mileage
check tyres for un even wear
At that sort of mileage some of the bushes and shocks might be starting to get a little tired.
Can't think of any thing else......
Got my Imola red M3 a few months ago, and it is simply great. I bought at the bottom of the market, but with all the options I needed (except the roof), a full history file of all its bills and in good nick. I did an oil change, checked it over and the only thing it needs is some front pads. It had some fault lights on (aftermarket lights), a duff abs sensor and a few other bits. I am 90% through retrofitting the bluetooth and it has had a bit of a clean. I need to refurb the wheels, and I popped on some new rear tyres.
I just got done with fitting the clubsport gear knob, which was a doddle and simply a great mod. I have used it whilst the Tuscan has a few jobs and it is simply stunning, quick, comfortable and quick good on fuel.
In terms of a checklist, these are things I have found
Check for accident damage.
Check the clutch, around £500 in parts
Check when it had a Insp 2 as it should have the shims done
Check rear springs (they break)
Check the floor for checks (may need to go up on a ramp)
Check the service history has no gaps and has been serviced at the right times and not just at mileage
check tyres for un even wear
At that sort of mileage some of the bushes and shocks might be starting to get a little tired.
Can't think of any thing else......
THE main thing at the moment is to make sure the car is not suffering from cracked rear subframe mounting points. The only way you can be sure is to have it up in the air and a thorough inspection done by someone who knows what they are searching for.
Google 'e46 subframe' and see what comes up. It can make very frightening reading.
Also have the engine checked for head gasket failure. Whilst not common it is getting reported on the forums now and can be quite expensive. The gasket usually fails between 5and 6 cylinders and as such affects compression. The only way you will tell is have a compression test done.
My advice is to find a car you are happy to buy and then complete subject to an inspection at a reputable specialist.
Also remember that although they are cheap to buy, they were once a £50k sports car and the associated running costs still apply.
Google 'e46 subframe' and see what comes up. It can make very frightening reading.
Also have the engine checked for head gasket failure. Whilst not common it is getting reported on the forums now and can be quite expensive. The gasket usually fails between 5and 6 cylinders and as such affects compression. The only way you will tell is have a compression test done.
My advice is to find a car you are happy to buy and then complete subject to an inspection at a reputable specialist.
Also remember that although they are cheap to buy, they were once a £50k sports car and the associated running costs still apply.
Hi guys thank you for the info so far.
Can anyone tell me if the rear subframes were or get done on recalls or is it just a fault that can occur anytime and the owner has fix at own expense ?
Also I'm sure I read about a major recall on engine bearings that should be done on pre june 2003 models has anyone any info on this and should it be in the book marked as done on a recall??
And back to the subframe cracking is this a serious common fault and is it the same subframe as a
330ci coupe say??
Also about the compression testing do you think I should get this done at a bmw garage or bmw specialist before hand and does anyone know the price of this ??
sorry so many questions, i'm excited but worried if that sounds right!!!
cheers
Can anyone tell me if the rear subframes were or get done on recalls or is it just a fault that can occur anytime and the owner has fix at own expense ?
Also I'm sure I read about a major recall on engine bearings that should be done on pre june 2003 models has anyone any info on this and should it be in the book marked as done on a recall??
And back to the subframe cracking is this a serious common fault and is it the same subframe as a
330ci coupe say??
Also about the compression testing do you think I should get this done at a bmw garage or bmw specialist before hand and does anyone know the price of this ??
sorry so many questions, i'm excited but worried if that sounds right!!!
cheers
ducharme1 said:
Hi guys thank you for the info so far.
Can anyone tell me if the rear subframes were or get done on recalls or is it just a fault that can occur anytime and the owner has fix at own expense ?
Also I'm sure I read about a major recall on engine bearings that should be done on pre june 2003 models has anyone any info on this and should it be in the book marked as done on a recall??
And back to the subframe cracking is this a serious common fault and is it the same subframe as a
330ci coupe say??
Also about the compression testing do you think I should get this done at a bmw garage or bmw specialist before hand and does anyone know the price of this ??
sorry so many questions, i'm excited but worried if that sounds right!!!
cheers
The subframe isnt a recall but i believe if it cracks BMW will fix it FOC if the car is less than 10 yrs old.Engine work should be done,this was the only recall i remember for the car.Can anyone tell me if the rear subframes were or get done on recalls or is it just a fault that can occur anytime and the owner has fix at own expense ?
Also I'm sure I read about a major recall on engine bearings that should be done on pre june 2003 models has anyone any info on this and should it be in the book marked as done on a recall??
And back to the subframe cracking is this a serious common fault and is it the same subframe as a
330ci coupe say??
Also about the compression testing do you think I should get this done at a bmw garage or bmw specialist before hand and does anyone know the price of this ??
sorry so many questions, i'm excited but worried if that sounds right!!!
cheers
As for the compression test,that is up to you.If the car is defo for you and you are happy with everything else it might be worth while.Having said that the gasket could go a few weeks after you bought it!
Gasket failures are pretty rare and i wouldn't let that put you off or you will never end up getting one.
Nedzilla said:
The subframe isnt a recall but i believe if it cracks BMW will fix it FOC if the car is less than 10 yrs old.Engine work should be done,this was the only recall i remember for the car.
As for the compression test,that is up to you.If the car is defo for you and you are happy with everything else it might be worth while.Having said that the gasket could go a few weeks after you bought it!
Gasket failures are pretty rare and i wouldn't let that put you off or you will never end up getting one.
Hi ok excellent so I suppose pending when the car was made in 2002 I could get it checked and there still might be cover on the subframe!!As for the compression test,that is up to you.If the car is defo for you and you are happy with everything else it might be worth while.Having said that the gasket could go a few weeks after you bought it!
Gasket failures are pretty rare and i wouldn't let that put you off or you will never end up getting one.
I know you say gasket failures are rare but any idea of cost for the fix ??
Cheers
Just to be clear it's not actually the subframe that cracks, it's the boot floor that the subframe bolts on to. The subframe cradles the diff and bolts onto the chassis.
It's a £5k repair to replace the floor at BMW.
I have a low mile 2002 M3 and luckily my business has a car lift and I can inspect it regularly. In May 2012 my will be 10 yrs. old and I face the dilemma of what to do as it's not cracked. I believe the weld in reinforcement kit is not the answer as it does not stop chassis flex and the cracks will for adjacent to the welded edge. The only way I can see is to fill the floor cavity with the foaming epoxy resin to uniformally increase the structural rigidity and decrease flex.
BMW is likely to turn away modified cars - i.e. non std wheels, suspension and bushes so think about that when buying.
The annoying thing is there is not data on failure rate so nobody can give probability figures. I suspect it is because the failure is due to metal fatigue rather than a component failure. I think the more a car is abused then the more likely failure is to occur. I believe SMG cars are more likely to have floor problems due to the harshness of the gear change slam.
It's a £5k repair to replace the floor at BMW.
I have a low mile 2002 M3 and luckily my business has a car lift and I can inspect it regularly. In May 2012 my will be 10 yrs. old and I face the dilemma of what to do as it's not cracked. I believe the weld in reinforcement kit is not the answer as it does not stop chassis flex and the cracks will for adjacent to the welded edge. The only way I can see is to fill the floor cavity with the foaming epoxy resin to uniformally increase the structural rigidity and decrease flex.
BMW is likely to turn away modified cars - i.e. non std wheels, suspension and bushes so think about that when buying.
The annoying thing is there is not data on failure rate so nobody can give probability figures. I suspect it is because the failure is due to metal fatigue rather than a component failure. I think the more a car is abused then the more likely failure is to occur. I believe SMG cars are more likely to have floor problems due to the harshness of the gear change slam.
Hi,
Right ok guys this is starting to scare the hell out of me now. I've looked on google seen some videos of broken moving parts and read about it a little. It seems to be not just an E46 M3 model but all E46 models from what I can gather. Is this right?????
I'm not a car mechanic and haven't got a ramp with out organising something with BMW or a Specialist !!!!!!!!
Can any1 give me a any tips and things to look for with it being parked on the road and when test driving and being a passenger ???
You say its not actually the subframe but its the boot floor, can this be seen from the inside of the boot lifting the carpet?? Please forgive me I've never looked in a E46 boot before if theres a obvious answer that I can't.
The car has 70k on the clock and is a 2002 so by the sounds of the problem its not got a lot going for it because to be fair if it happened I haven't got 5k to fix it!!!!
Can anyone give any ideas on probability of this happening 50% , 25% , 90% ?? ahhhh its putting me to be fair!
Cheers
Right ok guys this is starting to scare the hell out of me now. I've looked on google seen some videos of broken moving parts and read about it a little. It seems to be not just an E46 M3 model but all E46 models from what I can gather. Is this right?????
I'm not a car mechanic and haven't got a ramp with out organising something with BMW or a Specialist !!!!!!!!
Can any1 give me a any tips and things to look for with it being parked on the road and when test driving and being a passenger ???
You say its not actually the subframe but its the boot floor, can this be seen from the inside of the boot lifting the carpet?? Please forgive me I've never looked in a E46 boot before if theres a obvious answer that I can't.
The car has 70k on the clock and is a 2002 so by the sounds of the problem its not got a lot going for it because to be fair if it happened I haven't got 5k to fix it!!!!
Can anyone give any ideas on probability of this happening 50% , 25% , 90% ?? ahhhh its putting me to be fair!
Cheers
How much is the car you are looking to buy?
Here is a pic of the boot floor. You can see in the top left a crack near one mount point. If you look diagonally opposite you can see another near the front mount point.
If you were sat in the car and the panel above was on the car then the damage would be at the rear left (large crack) and the front right. My opinion is the rear left failed first ( as most do) and this then allowed the flex to be more focussed on the front and with the increased leverage gained from the greater flex due to the crack then its started to tug away at the front and its cracked near the weld.
There are no stats and probability figures. Just make sure you have it inspected before swapping cash for car.
If its all good and you get it then let me know as I am going to be injecting the foaming epoxy resin soon and Ill share some info.
Here is a pic of the boot floor. You can see in the top left a crack near one mount point. If you look diagonally opposite you can see another near the front mount point.
If you were sat in the car and the panel above was on the car then the damage would be at the rear left (large crack) and the front right. My opinion is the rear left failed first ( as most do) and this then allowed the flex to be more focussed on the front and with the increased leverage gained from the greater flex due to the crack then its started to tug away at the front and its cracked near the weld.
There are no stats and probability figures. Just make sure you have it inspected before swapping cash for car.
If its all good and you get it then let me know as I am going to be injecting the foaming epoxy resin soon and Ill share some info.
I think it's around the 7k mark but I know I can get it for less due it being a friends friends car. The car isnt advertised yet and I'm looking at it because he heard I was thinking of buying one!!
Basically I've got first looks at it before it goes on the market.
I now he's owned it for 3 years and only done 14k in it.
And also kept up with the servicing from our local BMW dealership.
I was originally thinking of getting a 330ci due to thinking i'd never be able to afford an M3, then started looking at M3's on eBay etc and realised the prices for the years are not much different. I watched a 2003 M3 soft top go for around 6700 the other day!! Not many are auctioned only usually have classified price tags and the prices are so far apart in each different car. I've seen 2002's advertised for 10k plus and then another 7k mark !
God knows that's why I've decided to come on here and talk to you guys to get advise, cheers
Basically I've got first looks at it before it goes on the market.
I now he's owned it for 3 years and only done 14k in it.
And also kept up with the servicing from our local BMW dealership.
I was originally thinking of getting a 330ci due to thinking i'd never be able to afford an M3, then started looking at M3's on eBay etc and realised the prices for the years are not much different. I watched a 2003 M3 soft top go for around 6700 the other day!! Not many are auctioned only usually have classified price tags and the prices are so far apart in each different car. I've seen 2002's advertised for 10k plus and then another 7k mark !
God knows that's why I've decided to come on here and talk to you guys to get advise, cheers
Welcome.
I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
Buzzmeister said:
Welcome.
I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
Car leaning to the right on level ground is almost certainly a broken rear spring if your not already aware.I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
Buzzmeister said:
Welcome.
I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
Hi thanks for the info!I recently bought a manual E46 M3 of similar age and mileage. It came with very little background info so the first few months were a journey of exploration.
The faults / issues I have discovered are all known faults on this car and are as follows:
M clunk; noise from drivetrain when manoeuvering
rear view mirror; photochromatic liquid leak- mirror is permanently dipped apart from a bubble area
HVAC blower is intermittent
1st, 2nd and reverse gears are very stubborn when cold; something to do with rusty splines inside the 'box. gearbox out job to repair. more likely if the car is rarely driven.
excessive tramlining
car leans to the right on level ground
replaced battery
geometry was well out of alignment
apart from that it's superb.
have fun!
The m clunk noise from drivetrain how did you sort that and what was the exspence roughly ?
The gearbox also how much was the repaire, you say due to not being used much? How much?
Tram lining does tracking and tyres solve this ?
Geometry out of Alinemeant again how did you solve this ? Cheers
I bought a 2003 car a few months ago. Imola red, 70000 miles, manual, coupe.
Rear springs both snapped, and I replaced them with Einbach.
Secondly it became difficult to select 1st or reverse when cold. If you double dip the clutch it worked fine. Its common and caused by corrosion on the spline. To take it apart you may aswell change the clutch and grease it at the same time. Its now spot on and really light too, so's my wallet to the tune of over £500.
Brakes can be expensive so make sure if your buying it they are not needed any time soon. They last approx 36000-40000 miles. I was stung on my last one at only 3 years old and 38000 miles.
I had terribletramlining on this one, tracking was fine and it turned out to be the Michelin front tyres. I fitted Continental M3's which cured it.
Ive had mine checked for floor cracking and so far so good.
Check with BMW the recalls were carried out too, and enjoy
Rear springs both snapped, and I replaced them with Einbach.
Secondly it became difficult to select 1st or reverse when cold. If you double dip the clutch it worked fine. Its common and caused by corrosion on the spline. To take it apart you may aswell change the clutch and grease it at the same time. Its now spot on and really light too, so's my wallet to the tune of over £500.
Brakes can be expensive so make sure if your buying it they are not needed any time soon. They last approx 36000-40000 miles. I was stung on my last one at only 3 years old and 38000 miles.
I had terribletramlining on this one, tracking was fine and it turned out to be the Michelin front tyres. I fitted Continental M3's which cured it.
Ive had mine checked for floor cracking and so far so good.
Check with BMW the recalls were carried out too, and enjoy
Edited by nottyash on Tuesday 27th December 17:03
ducharme1 said:
Hi thanks for the info!
The m clunk noise from drivetrain how did you sort that and what was the exspence roughly ?
The gearbox also how much was the repaire, you say due to not being used much? How much?
Tram lining does tracking and tyres solve this ?
Geometry out of Alinemeant again how did you solve this ? Cheers
The M clunk is just play in the drivetrain between the back of the gearbox and the wheels. It is quite common on these cars. To eliminate it the diff probably needs rebuilding but most just learn to live with it.The m clunk noise from drivetrain how did you sort that and what was the exspence roughly ?
The gearbox also how much was the repaire, you say due to not being used much? How much?
Tram lining does tracking and tyres solve this ?
Geometry out of Alinemeant again how did you solve this ? Cheers
Again, I have not repaired the gearbox as I can live with it. I read of someone removing the gearbox to clean up the splines to solve this problem; no idea £how much.
Geo aligment + tyres has not altered the tramlining in my car at all. The geo cost about £100 to adjust at a specialist with a laser alignment jig.
Nedzilla said:
Car leaning to the right on level ground is almost certainly a broken rear spring if your not already aware.
I have inspected the springs and can't see any damage and I had them inspected when it was serviced and they saw no damage. I believe that it's quite common for RHD cars to lean to the right. Possibly due to the weight distribution being optimised for LHD. Buzzmeister said:
Nedzilla said:
Car leaning to the right on level ground is almost certainly a broken rear spring if your not already aware.
I have inspected the springs and can't see any damage and I had them inspected when it was serviced and they saw no damage. I believe that it's quite common for RHD cars to lean to the right. Possibly due to the weight distribution being optimised for LHD. When one of the springs broke on mine i could only tell that it was slightly lopsided when it was up an the garage ramps which are perfectly level.
Nedzilla said:
Are you certain?
No, not certain. The car is not obviously leaning from the rear but the clearance between tyre and wheel arch is about 1cm different across sides. The springs looked new when I inspected them- still shiny black with stickers on.
Thanks for the advice, I'll have a closer look.
Pig Skill said:
How much is the car you are looking to buy?
Here is a pic of the boot floor. You can see in the top left a crack near one mount point. If you look diagonally opposite you can see another near the front mount point.
If you were sat in the car and the panel above was on the car then the damage would be at the rear left (large crack) and the front right. My opinion is the rear left failed first ( as most do) and this then allowed the flex to be more focussed on the front and with the increased leverage gained from the greater flex due to the crack then its started to tug away at the front and its cracked near the weld.
There are no stats and probability figures. Just make sure you have it inspected before swapping cash for car.
If its all good and you get it then let me know as I am going to be injecting the foaming epoxy resin soon and Ill share some info.
Ive been looking at that for about five minutes now and still cant see the cracks!Here is a pic of the boot floor. You can see in the top left a crack near one mount point. If you look diagonally opposite you can see another near the front mount point.
If you were sat in the car and the panel above was on the car then the damage would be at the rear left (large crack) and the front right. My opinion is the rear left failed first ( as most do) and this then allowed the flex to be more focussed on the front and with the increased leverage gained from the greater flex due to the crack then its started to tug away at the front and its cracked near the weld.
There are no stats and probability figures. Just make sure you have it inspected before swapping cash for car.
If its all good and you get it then let me know as I am going to be injecting the foaming epoxy resin soon and Ill share some info.
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