M3 EVO track essentials, i.e. ARP rod bolts etc. Talk to me!
Discussion
So I've seen that these are a recommended buy for an M3 Evo that's going on track. I e tracked a couple of suppliers down, but what else should I consider essential before letting the car loose?
Is there anything else that should be done when the rod bolts are done also? Before the rod bolts get done, is there a safe rev limit I can drive to?
Is there anything else that should be done when the rod bolts are done also? Before the rod bolts get done, is there a safe rev limit I can drive to?
Hi Iguana, I'll be buying them from Demon Tweeks by the looks of things.
Putting together bit of a shopping list at present which includes:
ARP con rod bolts
Z3 steering rack
New inner/outer track rods
New front wishbones and black polybushes
RTABs
New rear arms
Coilovers, most likely the ST X items by KW. Once we get really serious I will get much higher quality items.
New top mounts and Z3 reinforcement plates on the rear
Swap the much lighter Scorpion backbox over from my 3.0 onto the Evo.
We've bought a Go Pro too to help us track our own progress on track. Need a mount for that. The thing with the ARP rod bolts was a complete surprise to me when I read it. If there's anything else along those lines that should be done to safeguard the engine then I'm definitely interested in finding out about it.
Putting together bit of a shopping list at present which includes:
ARP con rod bolts
Z3 steering rack
New inner/outer track rods
New front wishbones and black polybushes
RTABs
New rear arms
Coilovers, most likely the ST X items by KW. Once we get really serious I will get much higher quality items.
New top mounts and Z3 reinforcement plates on the rear
Swap the much lighter Scorpion backbox over from my 3.0 onto the Evo.
We've bought a Go Pro too to help us track our own progress on track. Need a mount for that. The thing with the ARP rod bolts was a complete surprise to me when I read it. If there's anything else along those lines that should be done to safeguard the engine then I'm definitely interested in finding out about it.
carl_w said:
Pagid RS29 pads and Castrol SRF fluid. Might as well get steel hoses while you're at it.
Front camber bolts
Polybush?
Uprated engine mounts?
Yeah actually those things are on the list too. I already have some ATE Blue fluid to use but I don't think I will need the front camber bolts. Front camber bolts
Polybush?
Uprated engine mounts?
TroubledSoul said:
Yeah actually those things are on the list too. I already have some ATE Blue fluid to use but I don't think I will need the front camber bolts.
Up to you, but the S54 engine is very heavy. My Z4 is very understeery particularly in low speed bends. I'd love to get some more negative camber on the front.TroubledSoul said:
I've seen that people do that, but I'm not too sure yet about going that route. I don't want to be doing things just for the sake of it. I need to know it's definitely worthwhile and for a good reason.
It gave me around 3 Deg's of -ve camber without the need to buy adjustable top mounts. I tracked the front straight which ensures you dont run your front tyres out in short order. Worthwhile IMO, if you dont like it then you can just change them back with no expense. I ran the car with these top mounts and revalved PSS9's, standard roll bars and it was very very good.shalmaneser said:
Does that work?
You just swap the front mounts over left to right?
Hmmm.
Exactly that, swap one side to the other, once you have them out it will become obvious why it works. It only works with Evo mounts and if you use the car for lots of roads use ( as I did) it's vital that you set the toe straight ahead. If you don't you will be on first name terms with your local tyre place. A very worthwhile thing to do in my opinion, as I said earlier this with a set of Pss9's and a proper geo made for a very competent car. You just swap the front mounts over left to right?
Hmmm.
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