M2 Brakes - again...
M2 Brakes - again...
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5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Had my first track day at the weekend, whilst I thoroughly enjoyed it, the brakes need some work.

The pedal went soft on me a few times, so as a minimum I'm going to get some Castrol SRF in there.

The next issue is that I have been left with a rumble/vibration when braking with anything other than light pressure. I am thinking this is pad deposits on the discs due to me not cooling them off enough at some point?
I've tried a few heavy stops to clean them up but it doesn't seem to have had much effect. Any thoughts on if they will clean up with more miles?

I'm thinking I may go for a different brake pad as I plan on doing a few more track days. The car is very much a daily driver though so they need to be civilised.
I want a pad that doesn't require lots of heat before becoming effective.
I want a pad that doesn't squeal horrifically.

Any suggestions?
I know BMW do an M Performance pad and am waiting for a price on these, what else should I consider though?

ftypical

457 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
EBC Yellow Stuff?

saveloy

148 posts

151 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Pagid RS29 or RSL29. Along with the Castrol SRF you'll have no future issues.

Kyri

Far Cough

2,477 posts

193 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
5678 said:
Had my first track day at the weekend, whilst I thoroughly enjoyed it, the brakes need some work.

The pedal went soft on me a few times, so as a minimum I'm going to get some Castrol SRF in there.

The next issue is that I have been left with a rumble/vibration when braking with anything other than light pressure. I am thinking this is pad deposits on the discs due to me not cooling them off enough at some point?
I've tried a few heavy stops to clean them up but it doesn't seem to have had much effect. Any thoughts on if they will clean up with more miles?

I'm thinking I may go for a different brake pad as I plan on doing a few more track days. The car is very much a daily driver though so they need to be civilised.
I want a pad that doesn't require lots of heat before becoming effective.
I want a pad that doesn't squeal horrifically.

Any suggestions?
I know BMW do an M Performance pad and am waiting for a price on these, what else should I consider though?
Mate had exactly the same. Got the rotors replaced under warranty for not being fit for purpose and put the M Performance pads in. Problem solved. I'd go this route to start and if you need further improvement look at Big Brake kits .... 👍

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
ftypical said:
EBC Yellow Stuff?
Ran EBC once years ago, had a pad come away from the back. Won't use them again.

saveloy said:
Pagid RS29 or RSL29. Along with the Castrol SRF you'll have no future issues.

Kyri
Risk for noise is too high really, plus I want something that works well from cold as the wife drives the car now and then.

Far Cough said:
Mate had exactly the same. Got the rotors replaced under warranty for not being fit for purpose and put the M Performance pads in. Problem solved. I'd go this route to start and if you need further improvement look at Big Brake kits .... ??
Was it much of a battle to get them changed?

Far Cough

2,477 posts

193 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
5678 said:
Was it much of a battle to get them changed?
Not at all. They only insisted on replacing the pads with like for like though so as soon as he got home he popped the brand new normal pads out and dropped in the Performance ones and bedded them and new rotors in together.

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Got it booked in. Will see if they let me pay the upgrade amount!

SebringMan

1,774 posts

211 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
RS29s. IMHO these are a wonder pad. They work on the road without being useless and they work on track.

They are very resiliant on track. Short of riding them 24/7 they will be spot on. They were fine for us in a Rent-A-Race-Car driven by 6 people of varying talents in a day doing around 18 laps around the 'ring during a DN even (DN16). I can't say I remember them squealing but it was over a year ago now.

The same day I went around with a bloke in an E46 with those pads in his stock braking system. The car was spot on with them TBH!


Steve Rance

5,453 posts

256 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Castrol SRF and pagid yellows are all you need. The discs and Calpers are fine as they are.

Edited by Steve Rance on Tuesday 3rd April 18:55

SebringMan

1,774 posts

211 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Steve Rance said:
Castrol SRF and pagid yellows are all you need. The discs and Calpers are fine as they are.

Edited by Steve Rance on Tuesday 3rd April 18:55
TBH one racer I know tried all sorts of fluid. In his opinion only SRF stayed consistent.

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2018
quotequote all
Steve Rance said:
Castrol SRF and pagid yellows are all you need. The discs and Calpers are fine as they are.

Edited by Steve Rance on Tuesday 3rd April 18:55
Thanks Steve. SRF is a definite. How are the yellows in terms of noise? This is my main concern as it’s a daily driver first and toy second.

Steve Rance

5,453 posts

256 months

Wednesday 4th April 2018
quotequote all
If you tend to cover the brake peddle, brake lightly and stay on the brakes for longer than needed, you will get pad squeal. If you brake more clinically - ie one harder application - then yellows will be fine. I have yellows fitted to my cars and get no squeal. When my partner drives any of them she complains of brake squeal all of the time. It’s easy enough to clear but a real pain if your technique doesn’t suit them.

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Wednesday 4th April 2018
quotequote all
Steve Rance said:
If you tend to cover the brake peddle, brake lightly and stay on the brakes for longer than needed, you will get pad squeal. If you brake more clinically - ie one harder application - then yellows will be fine. I have yellows fitted to my cars and get no squeal. When my partner drives any of them she complains of brake squeal all of the time. It’s easy enough to clear but a real pain if your technique doesn’t suit them.
Thanks again.

I think I'll avoid them as I spend a lot of time commuting and inerently the braking required would mean squeal.

Would you have any suggestions for something a bit more generic/road orientated?


Pauloamore

226 posts

238 months

Friday 6th April 2018
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Took me a month to get rid of the vibration - including motorway speed braking to approx 30 miles an hour. It’s takes a tiny amount of pad material on the disc to cause it. I know. I had the same problem.

Just for fun, spray some water on the discs. Wait for the disc to discolour. You’ll be able to see where the pad material is (ie where the disc doesn’t slightly corrode). Just takes time but the vibration will go away after more braking.

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Saturday 7th April 2018
quotequote all
Pauloamore said:
Took me a month to get rid of the vibration - including motorway speed braking to approx 30 miles an hour. It’s takes a tiny amount of pad material on the disc to cause it. I know. I had the same problem.

Just for fun, spray some water on the discs. Wait for the disc to discolour. You’ll be able to see where the pad material is (ie where the disc doesn’t slightly corrode). Just takes time but the vibration will go away after more braking.
It’s better after a week and a few hundred miles already. Good to know it will recover.

nickfrog

24,678 posts

242 months

Sunday 8th April 2018
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5678 said:
It’s better after a week and a few hundred miles already. Good to know it will recover.
It will. To accelerate recovery I have found that hosing the discs in the evening creates surface rust that makes the self cleaning process quicker when driving the morning after. Sounds bizarre but has worked for me when I had deposit.

Heat management can be tricky on heavish cars but my advice is to spent as little time as possible on the brakes, ie brake very hard but on as short distance as possible. Obviously maintain good modulation using the usual bell curve shape pressure to minimise weight transfer on initial application and release.

I had to laugh at the mention of EBC early in the thread.

ftypical

457 posts

143 months

Sunday 8th April 2018
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nickfrog said:
I had to laugh at the mention of EBC early in the thread.
Happy to help. 🙄

nickfrog

24,678 posts

242 months

Sunday 8th April 2018
quotequote all
Sorry I didn't mean to sound that bad. EBC can be OK for the road but have a tendency to melt on track very quickly, even when using their hottest compound.

5678

Original Poster:

6,146 posts

252 months

Monday 9th April 2018
quotequote all
Will try the watering thing. I’m not using the car this week so there will be plenty when I do!

I found a thread on there talking about using DS2500s, I use this on my 182 and like them. Would be curious to hear how they hold up on the M2.

squirdan

1,159 posts

172 months

Monday 9th April 2018
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also, to the OP, and forgive me if you know all this, a cool down lap at the end of your session (try to do a speed that means you can take every corner without braking) is a good idea, and never use the handbrake, just leave it in gear. handbrake on v hot discs can warp them