BMW M6 E94 V10
Discussion
Hi all, just after a little advice for my E64 M6. When it first goes out - engine cold, it tends to drive a bit bouncy, not smooth. When it starts to warm up and the engine/oil is warm, drives like a dream. No fault codes. A mate who had a z4M had the same issue and replaced a couple of throttle response sensors. I just wondered if this was a trait of the 5L V10 or if anyone had a fix.
Many thanks
Gloster
Many thanks
Gloster
When you say “at first”, how long are we talking about? For approx. 30 seconds or so from a cold start, there’s a different map running to normal to heat up the cats quicker. If you’re gently setting off and changing gear at 5mph into 2nd during that initial mapping phase, then yes, it’s somewhat jerky in mine too. I suspect it’s the SMG trying to manipulate the clutch position vs. the cat warming cycle vs. low speed ‘must not stall’.
Regardless of gearbox mode / speed, my first change from 1st to 2nd after starting up from cold is slow, but not with a clunk, likely due to the above, as I don’t wait for the cat cycle to finish & so completely annoy the neighbours before setting off. 100 yds down the road, it’s fine.
Are you talking a longer time period than that?
Regardless of gearbox mode / speed, my first change from 1st to 2nd after starting up from cold is slow, but not with a clunk, likely due to the above, as I don’t wait for the cat cycle to finish & so completely annoy the neighbours before setting off. 100 yds down the road, it’s fine.
Are you talking a longer time period than that?
A few miles?! I’d say something is wrong, yes.
Without seeing it in action, initial thoughts revolve around;
1). When/if clutch was done? Sticky release bearing or leaking cylinder puts a spot on the clutch plates.
2). Vanos acting up & not opening consistently on both sides.
3). Some sort of fault with the power mapping/button - like if you’re at a steady throttle application & press the button on/off, you can feel the change.
4). How often are you using it? - they really don’t like part-charged batteries - I have a solar>OBD socket trickle charger that I keep on the dash to help prevent low battery foibles ( if it’s getting low, I can usually tell as it tells me the key is not in the ignition... and then lower still, the time is reset upon starting).
5). Sounds a bit silly, but are your suspension fluid levels OK? I never usually take mine out of comfort setting, but had to top-up the fluid earlier this year - no obvious leaks, but it was low. I haven’t actually noticed any difference, but then jumping between the magic carpet ride of the 7, the roll of the SL and the firmness of the 6 makes it hard to notice anyway.
Obviously it’s all just conjecture & guesswork, if you’re ever up in the NW, Manchester way, welcome to have a go in mine for comparison.
Without seeing it in action, initial thoughts revolve around;
1). When/if clutch was done? Sticky release bearing or leaking cylinder puts a spot on the clutch plates.
2). Vanos acting up & not opening consistently on both sides.
3). Some sort of fault with the power mapping/button - like if you’re at a steady throttle application & press the button on/off, you can feel the change.
4). How often are you using it? - they really don’t like part-charged batteries - I have a solar>OBD socket trickle charger that I keep on the dash to help prevent low battery foibles ( if it’s getting low, I can usually tell as it tells me the key is not in the ignition... and then lower still, the time is reset upon starting).
5). Sounds a bit silly, but are your suspension fluid levels OK? I never usually take mine out of comfort setting, but had to top-up the fluid earlier this year - no obvious leaks, but it was low. I haven’t actually noticed any difference, but then jumping between the magic carpet ride of the 7, the roll of the SL and the firmness of the 6 makes it hard to notice anyway.
Obviously it’s all just conjecture & guesswork, if you’re ever up in the NW, Manchester way, welcome to have a go in mine for comparison.
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