M6 GC - What to look out for?
Discussion
All,
I am rather taken by the M6 GC and am considering one as a daily.
Are there any common issue that I should look out for. Ideally, I would like to buy a LCI car, but would not turn down a good non-LCI car.
In case I do not by from a main dealer, are there any good warranties that adequately cover the engine and box?
Many thanks,
Rog
I am rather taken by the M6 GC and am considering one as a daily.
Are there any common issue that I should look out for. Ideally, I would like to buy a LCI car, but would not turn down a good non-LCI car.
In case I do not by from a main dealer, are there any good warranties that adequately cover the engine and box?
Many thanks,
Rog
I have a 2017 M6 GC, most of the issues I have seen reported on the forums are from tuned cars. The f10 M5 and the M6 GC share the same S63 engine and they seem really popular with tuners. When I was looking for mine I wasn't interested in any cars that were tuned and bought one with a BMW warranty.
I would head over to the M5 and M6 forums at https://www.bimmerpost.com, there is plenty of content especially on the F10 M5 forum.
I am selling mine in September, if you feel like a San Marino Blue car with 15K miles then give me a shout.
I would head over to the M5 and M6 forums at https://www.bimmerpost.com, there is plenty of content especially on the F10 M5 forum.
I am selling mine in September, if you feel like a San Marino Blue car with 15K miles then give me a shout.
Something I would highly recommend is having a prospective car put on a rolling road before you buy and take it somewhere like DMS who specialise in BMWs. They will be able to check the health of the engine, how much power it is producing, the health of the fuel injectors, the clutch, everything. They might charge around £200 but it will give you peace of mind.
Fuel injectors can fail on them, both new and old injectors. This is the main weakpoint of the engine. Check that it idles smoothly and revs through smoothly when driving
when you get the car, if you ever get a misfire or rough idling, shut the car down as soon as possible and get it towed to a garage. A stuck open injector will throw a cel and tell you to drive slowly, but if you do this you can score cylinder walls and also get fuel hydrolock which will bend rods.
Never drive the car more than say half a mile as soon as you get a misfire. If you keep this in mind you can save the engine and get a faulty injector replaced. Also ensure the oil is replaced at the same time.
Make sure it has had regular services and put your foot down from low revs to check for any clutch slip (you'll notice revs jump up then recover). Clutches slip on the M6 and M5 in both stock and tuned form. Again the rolling road analysis will be able to detect a slipping clutch in a safe environment
The majority of issues on the M5 and M6 come from neglect and lack of maintenance. The only problem which can affect both good and bad cars are the injectors
Fuel injectors can fail on them, both new and old injectors. This is the main weakpoint of the engine. Check that it idles smoothly and revs through smoothly when driving
when you get the car, if you ever get a misfire or rough idling, shut the car down as soon as possible and get it towed to a garage. A stuck open injector will throw a cel and tell you to drive slowly, but if you do this you can score cylinder walls and also get fuel hydrolock which will bend rods.
Never drive the car more than say half a mile as soon as you get a misfire. If you keep this in mind you can save the engine and get a faulty injector replaced. Also ensure the oil is replaced at the same time.
Make sure it has had regular services and put your foot down from low revs to check for any clutch slip (you'll notice revs jump up then recover). Clutches slip on the M6 and M5 in both stock and tuned form. Again the rolling road analysis will be able to detect a slipping clutch in a safe environment
The majority of issues on the M5 and M6 come from neglect and lack of maintenance. The only problem which can affect both good and bad cars are the injectors
FM-EVA said:
Something I would highly recommend is having a prospective car put on a rolling road before you buy and take it somewhere like DMS who specialise in BMWs. They will be able to check the health of the engine, how much power it is producing, the health of the fuel injectors, the clutch, everything. They might charge around £200 but it will give you peace of mind.
Fuel injectors can fail on them, both new and old injectors. This is the main weakpoint of the engine. Check that it idles smoothly and revs through smoothly when driving
when you get the car, if you ever get a misfire or rough idling, shut the car down as soon as possible and get it towed to a garage. A stuck open injector will throw a cel and tell you to drive slowly, but if you do this you can score cylinder walls and also get fuel hydrolock which will bend rods.
Never drive the car more than say half a mile as soon as you get a misfire. If you keep this in mind you can save the engine and get a faulty injector replaced. Also ensure the oil is replaced at the same time.
Make sure it has had regular services and put your foot down from low revs to check for any clutch slip (you'll notice revs jump up then recover). Clutches slip on the M6 and M5 in both stock and tuned form. Again the rolling road analysis will be able to detect a slipping clutch in a safe environment
The majority of issues on the M5 and M6 come from neglect and lack of maintenance. The only problem which can affect both good and bad cars are the injectors
Very insightful. Thank you.Fuel injectors can fail on them, both new and old injectors. This is the main weakpoint of the engine. Check that it idles smoothly and revs through smoothly when driving
when you get the car, if you ever get a misfire or rough idling, shut the car down as soon as possible and get it towed to a garage. A stuck open injector will throw a cel and tell you to drive slowly, but if you do this you can score cylinder walls and also get fuel hydrolock which will bend rods.
Never drive the car more than say half a mile as soon as you get a misfire. If you keep this in mind you can save the engine and get a faulty injector replaced. Also ensure the oil is replaced at the same time.
Make sure it has had regular services and put your foot down from low revs to check for any clutch slip (you'll notice revs jump up then recover). Clutches slip on the M6 and M5 in both stock and tuned form. Again the rolling road analysis will be able to detect a slipping clutch in a safe environment
The majority of issues on the M5 and M6 come from neglect and lack of maintenance. The only problem which can affect both good and bad cars are the injectors
Misfire when the fueling is not correct, the injector is not letting in the right amount of fuel (either not enough, or more than likely too much)
Always use high quality fuel, shell vpower, esso 99 or even tesco momentum, this will help keep them clean as possible however they dont really suffer with carbon build up
Youll notice a misfire straight away, there will be an interruption in power delivery, the car will judder , or drop revs quickly then recover, you'll notice smell of fuel, also idling will be unstable. Hopefully the computer will detect it also and give you a check engine light. You will also see white smoke from the exhaust which is fuel.
If it happens, just dont be one of these people who thinks "im only 2 miles from home, i'll limp the car back", because in them two miles the fuel can mix quickly with the oil (if injector is stuck open) and score cylinder walls, or worst case scenario you get too much fuel in the cylinder and as liquid cant be compressed, you bend a rod (fuel hydrolock). Just stop as soon as possible and get your car recovered.
It's all just about getting to know the car and always being aware of this issue, listen to the engine, always watch the rev behaviour etc, let it run for at least 30 seconds on cold start before driving as often it will happen when cold so you can detect it before it happens.
As long as you respect the car, change oil every 5000 miles, let it warm up before using large throttle openings (it takes a while to warm the oil as there are 9 litres of it, just ensure you let it get to around 80 degrees). Also cool the turbos down after you drive it by driving slowly with low revs for the last mile or so of a journey. If possible after driving the car hard especially on a hot day, open the bonnet when you get home to help the hot air escape from the engine bay, this will help preserve the plastic and rubber components
Always use high quality fuel, shell vpower, esso 99 or even tesco momentum, this will help keep them clean as possible however they dont really suffer with carbon build up
Youll notice a misfire straight away, there will be an interruption in power delivery, the car will judder , or drop revs quickly then recover, you'll notice smell of fuel, also idling will be unstable. Hopefully the computer will detect it also and give you a check engine light. You will also see white smoke from the exhaust which is fuel.
If it happens, just dont be one of these people who thinks "im only 2 miles from home, i'll limp the car back", because in them two miles the fuel can mix quickly with the oil (if injector is stuck open) and score cylinder walls, or worst case scenario you get too much fuel in the cylinder and as liquid cant be compressed, you bend a rod (fuel hydrolock). Just stop as soon as possible and get your car recovered.
It's all just about getting to know the car and always being aware of this issue, listen to the engine, always watch the rev behaviour etc, let it run for at least 30 seconds on cold start before driving as often it will happen when cold so you can detect it before it happens.
As long as you respect the car, change oil every 5000 miles, let it warm up before using large throttle openings (it takes a while to warm the oil as there are 9 litres of it, just ensure you let it get to around 80 degrees). Also cool the turbos down after you drive it by driving slowly with low revs for the last mile or so of a journey. If possible after driving the car hard especially on a hot day, open the bonnet when you get home to help the hot air escape from the engine bay, this will help preserve the plastic and rubber components
Also check the mileage of the car very carefully. There is an alarming trend these days for people to plug mileage blockers into the car which essentially stops the mileage increasing (can be picked up off ebay for about 50 quid)
They became very popular with PCP cars which had limited mileage usage on them and now they are everywhere.
The issue is the car thinks it has done less miles than it has, so if you have an ignorant owner they will let the car do 20,000 miles on oil instead of changing every 10,000 because the car hasnt alerted them
They became very popular with PCP cars which had limited mileage usage on them and now they are everywhere.
The issue is the car thinks it has done less miles than it has, so if you have an ignorant owner they will let the car do 20,000 miles on oil instead of changing every 10,000 because the car hasnt alerted them
Op the BMW insured Warranty is very good mine has always been covered and all claims have been met without quibble (via a main dealer which may help) https://www.bmw-warranty.co.uk/Start
I could be persuaded to part with mine had it almost 5 years now and the kids are all driving now so I'm thinking of something smaller but it's a very difficult act to follow. Mine is 2014, just turned 49K miles and had a major service last week (£800) It has 9 months BMW Insured Warranty remaining which is transferrable. Very high spec oh and its Black Sapphire with Sakir Orange interior (it's red). PM if you're interested
I could be persuaded to part with mine had it almost 5 years now and the kids are all driving now so I'm thinking of something smaller but it's a very difficult act to follow. Mine is 2014, just turned 49K miles and had a major service last week (£800) It has 9 months BMW Insured Warranty remaining which is transferrable. Very high spec oh and its Black Sapphire with Sakir Orange interior (it's red). PM if you're interested
FM-EVA said:
Misfire when the fueling is not correct, the injector is not letting in the right amount of fuel (either not enough, or more than likely too much)
Always use high quality fuel, shell vpower, esso 99 or even tesco momentum, this will help keep them clean as possible however they dont really suffer with carbon build up
Youll notice a misfire straight away, there will be an interruption in power delivery, the car will judder , or drop revs quickly then recover, you'll notice smell of fuel, also idling will be unstable. Hopefully the computer will detect it also and give you a check engine light. You will also see white smoke from the exhaust which is fuel.
If it happens, just dont be one of these people who thinks "im only 2 miles from home, i'll limp the car back", because in them two miles the fuel can mix quickly with the oil (if injector is stuck open) and score cylinder walls, or worst case scenario you get too much fuel in the cylinder and as liquid cant be compressed, you bend a rod (fuel hydrolock). Just stop as soon as possible and get your car recovered.
It's all just about getting to know the car and always being aware of this issue, listen to the engine, always watch the rev behaviour etc, let it run for at least 30 seconds on cold start before driving as often it will happen when cold so you can detect it before it happens.
As long as you respect the car, change oil every 5000 miles, let it warm up before using large throttle openings (it takes a while to warm the oil as there are 9 litres of it, just ensure you let it get to around 80 degrees). Also cool the turbos down after you drive it by driving slowly with low revs for the last mile or so of a journey. If possible after driving the car hard especially on a hot day, open the bonnet when you get home to help the hot air escape from the engine bay, this will help preserve the plastic and rubber components
Thanks Always use high quality fuel, shell vpower, esso 99 or even tesco momentum, this will help keep them clean as possible however they dont really suffer with carbon build up
Youll notice a misfire straight away, there will be an interruption in power delivery, the car will judder , or drop revs quickly then recover, you'll notice smell of fuel, also idling will be unstable. Hopefully the computer will detect it also and give you a check engine light. You will also see white smoke from the exhaust which is fuel.
If it happens, just dont be one of these people who thinks "im only 2 miles from home, i'll limp the car back", because in them two miles the fuel can mix quickly with the oil (if injector is stuck open) and score cylinder walls, or worst case scenario you get too much fuel in the cylinder and as liquid cant be compressed, you bend a rod (fuel hydrolock). Just stop as soon as possible and get your car recovered.
It's all just about getting to know the car and always being aware of this issue, listen to the engine, always watch the rev behaviour etc, let it run for at least 30 seconds on cold start before driving as often it will happen when cold so you can detect it before it happens.
As long as you respect the car, change oil every 5000 miles, let it warm up before using large throttle openings (it takes a while to warm the oil as there are 9 litres of it, just ensure you let it get to around 80 degrees). Also cool the turbos down after you drive it by driving slowly with low revs for the last mile or so of a journey. If possible after driving the car hard especially on a hot day, open the bonnet when you get home to help the hot air escape from the engine bay, this will help preserve the plastic and rubber components
Stever said:
Op the BMW insured Warranty is very good mine has always been covered and all claims have been met without quibble (via a main dealer which may help) https://www.bmw-warranty.co.uk/Start
I could be persuaded to part with mine had it almost 5 years now and the kids are all driving now so I'm thinking of something smaller but it's a very difficult act to follow. Mine is 2014, just turned 49K miles and had a major service last week (£800) It has 9 months BMW Insured Warranty remaining which is transferrable. Very high spec oh and its Black Sapphire with Sakir Orange interior (it's red). PM if you're interested
Lovely car, Sir. The only trouble is that I am looking for a LCI model. Thanks for the advice on the BMW Warranty. I am sure it is excellent, but I just got a quote for £4,300/pa...I could be persuaded to part with mine had it almost 5 years now and the kids are all driving now so I'm thinking of something smaller but it's a very difficult act to follow. Mine is 2014, just turned 49K miles and had a major service last week (£800) It has 9 months BMW Insured Warranty remaining which is transferrable. Very high spec oh and its Black Sapphire with Sakir Orange interior (it's red). PM if you're interested
I just cancelled my BMW insured warranty after having paid it for 17 months, £87/month with £250 excess. I only used it once to replace wireless charging (total cash cost £400, paid the excess of £250, so the warranty only reduced my cost by £150.00). If your car is not tuned and you service it regularly and keep to all the advice above, you should not have any reason to fear.
If you are still interested, RAC warranty is much cheaper but still expensive for the M6, their network of dealers include a well known German car specialist in my area. Their platinum cover is very good. But I am still not taking it
All these extended warranties diminish the cash gain of buying a used car, especially if you are keeping the car long term. Imagine the quote above of >£4000/annum, that would cost >£12000 over 3 years of ownership
Put some money aside every month (£150-200/month) and 9/10 you would come out ahead. The money would be enough to service the car and repair the car with an independent specialist, even sometimes with BMW dealers
If you are still interested, RAC warranty is much cheaper but still expensive for the M6, their network of dealers include a well known German car specialist in my area. Their platinum cover is very good. But I am still not taking it
All these extended warranties diminish the cash gain of buying a used car, especially if you are keeping the car long term. Imagine the quote above of >£4000/annum, that would cost >£12000 over 3 years of ownership
Put some money aside every month (£150-200/month) and 9/10 you would come out ahead. The money would be enough to service the car and repair the car with an independent specialist, even sometimes with BMW dealers
Not sure what you're asking for but the comprehensive warranty including UK & European assistance (which is excellent) £250 XS is c£800 a year for my 2014 M6GC.
I wouldn't pay £4k either, i'd give them a ring something doesn't add up. Lamedon was paying £87 per month.
It will be more in year 1 if your car is out of BMW Warranty but £3-£400 more not £4,000.
It's a choice, you can set aside a sum each month and hope nothing big comes along or insure it. neither way is necessarily right or wrong, winners and losers blah blah
I wouldn't pay £4k either, i'd give them a ring something doesn't add up. Lamedon was paying £87 per month.
It will be more in year 1 if your car is out of BMW Warranty but £3-£400 more not £4,000.
It's a choice, you can set aside a sum each month and hope nothing big comes along or insure it. neither way is necessarily right or wrong, winners and losers blah blah
mbug said:
There may be aesthetic elements that are not to everyone's taste, but it is still the only sensibly priced M6 GC out there at the moment.
I think you’ll find it’s ‘cheap’ because it’s been aesthetically altered, and also had some mods to the iDrive too by the looks of it. So a BMW warranty is out of the question. That colour coded steering column shroud is just awful, reminiscent of a MK4 Escort I once saw on Southend sea front in the 90s
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