E39 M5 vanos information (including failure?)
Discussion
Has anyone experienced ACTUAL vanos failure on the S62?
I just got mine, and its quite rattly, but from the general readup on search engines etc (searching E39 M5 VANOS) I get the idea that most are rattly?
Is this normal? When I was at BMW picking up a part for mine, I heard a new M6 (I guess it was very near new?) and that was started up, sounded just as rattly as my 10yr old car. I know its a completely different engine, but is this just the general noise that vanos makes.
I dont know loads about cars but learn more and more from forums like here
My buddy who I bought it from said dont worry about it, most are like that, and this particular one has been like it in the 3yrs he has had it. I believe him, but im sure a lot of people from a neutral point of view (who dont actually know him) would say something like "yeah he'll only tell you that because he sold you the car" or whatever.
I trust his word, but I just want to know how likely vanos failure is, and has been in the past? Is there anything you can do to stop the rattles? and is it worth it? or does it come back?
much thanks. this place is uber helpful!
me being a painter and decorator knowing naff all about cars, this forum is a fountain of knowledge and helps me learn more about cars in general (especially M5's)
I just got mine, and its quite rattly, but from the general readup on search engines etc (searching E39 M5 VANOS) I get the idea that most are rattly?
Is this normal? When I was at BMW picking up a part for mine, I heard a new M6 (I guess it was very near new?) and that was started up, sounded just as rattly as my 10yr old car. I know its a completely different engine, but is this just the general noise that vanos makes.
I dont know loads about cars but learn more and more from forums like here
My buddy who I bought it from said dont worry about it, most are like that, and this particular one has been like it in the 3yrs he has had it. I believe him, but im sure a lot of people from a neutral point of view (who dont actually know him) would say something like "yeah he'll only tell you that because he sold you the car" or whatever.
I trust his word, but I just want to know how likely vanos failure is, and has been in the past? Is there anything you can do to stop the rattles? and is it worth it? or does it come back?
much thanks. this place is uber helpful!
me being a painter and decorator knowing naff all about cars, this forum is a fountain of knowledge and helps me learn more about cars in general (especially M5's)
Mine is the same, rattles a little on tickover to the point of frustration when sitting in traffic it sounds like a diesel fiesta! Only cure is to give to some loud pedal when the traffic moves.
I found it is very oil related, using slightly thicker oil seemed to help. Could just be in my head though!
Upshot is dont worry about it, that will make you miss the experience, enjoy owning the fastest Saloon car in the world! (statment valid in 1999 but still impressive!)
I found it is very oil related, using slightly thicker oil seemed to help. Could just be in my head though!
Upshot is dont worry about it, that will make you miss the experience, enjoy owning the fastest Saloon car in the world! (statment valid in 1999 but still impressive!)
Mine rattles a little on start up, as did my e36 M3 which also had double vanos. If you're used to the sound they make it's much less disconcerting
Vanos issues are more often than a case of "owner's ear" in my experience. If they do fail it will be the way that it drives that will give the game away as well as the (by then much louder) noise.
Vanos issues are more often than a case of "owner's ear" in my experience. If they do fail it will be the way that it drives that will give the game away as well as the (by then much louder) noise.
Mine is rattly as well, however, having recently had an inlet CPS go down which effectively meant VANOS went into a safe mode I'm not sure you'd instantly know VANOS wasn't working unless you know the car really well. if you are worried speak to Phil Crouch at CPC automotive (01923 283274 or 07960 280953) he's a bit of a VANOS guru and will fix rather just replace the whole unit if you have a problem.
Ian
Ian
This is interesting reading regarding VANOS.
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
Most seem to make noise at tick over. Mine did and it worried me but TBH it ran perfect. I think it hurts yr ears more than anything else as its not expected from such a fine fettled lump. Changing the little O rings seems a good idea as their getting old now and its DIY and cheap. Good oil helped mine and slightly thicker to.
oltarmac said:
mine also has the 2 or 3 second vanos rattle on start up. the usual diesel sound also. but if its really hot outside (unusual in england iknow!!) it gets a bit worse,but to be honest ive just learnt to live with it.
Thats because when the tempreture is hotter the oil thins further and drains from the units. It can be a bit humiliating and I try and start the car when no one is around! Neil.D said:
oltarmac said:
mine also has the 2 or 3 second vanos rattle on start up. the usual diesel sound also. but if its really hot outside (unusual in england iknow!!) it gets a bit worse,but to be honest ive just learnt to live with it.
Thats because when the tempreture is hotter the oil thins further and drains from the units. It can be a bit humiliating and I try and start the car when no one is around! Neil.D said:
This is interesting reading regarding VANOS.
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
Also interesting to read is that the rattling could be a trributed to a largeish clearance in the 4 splined gears.http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
I only add because I'm looking at M5's, I don't do stella mileage (6-7k a year). How are the cars at being left standing for a week or 2?
[/quote]
I only add because I'm looking at M5's, I don't do stella mileage (6-7k a year). How are the cars at being left standing for a week or 2?
[/quote]
I do think they thrive on regular and enthusiastic use but saying that, I've only done 400 miles since the end of October
However, she's always fired up first time. Today for example; hasn't been driven since 29th Dec. Once I'd scraped off 6" of snow & ice she fired up first time but I did leave it to idle for a good 10 minutes to make sure the fluids were getting where they should before setting off.Reading various forums it appears the M5 is susceptable to throwing a few wobblies in the cold, especially Satnav/CD. It may be coincidence but after 3000 miles and daily use upto October, the car never missed a beat. In the 400 sparodic miles since then I've needed a new thermostat, Ignition switch and Brake light switch and my CD player has packed up?
Steameh said:
Neil.D said:
This is interesting reading regarding VANOS.
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
Also interesting to read is that the rattling could be a trributed to a largeish clearance in the 4 splined gears.http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
The rattle you describe is normal as the oil drains from the units when the engine is off and it takes a moment or two for the oil to reach the top of the engine and gain full effect. The pressure accumlator - fitted from about march '00 tries to prevent this but it doesnt work especially well.
Many times VANOS failure is identified by the dealer who will of course recommend an entie change, bank 1/2 as appropriate when in fact it is often one of the solaniods that fails. These are a thin circuit board with brittle soldering points that can break randomly.
With any VANOS diagnosys it is worth while taking a look at the sonanoids and the board to look for breakages. To replace these is about a thrid of the price and very easy DIY.
Neil
I only add because I'm looking at M5's, I don't do stella mileage (6-7k a year). How are the cars at being left standing for a week or 2?
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