M3 Evo Clucth Pressure trouble
Discussion
i have had this clutch problems now for 2years, I own a 1998 E36 M3 Evolution
The symptoms are very strange at times I lost complete clutch pressure when driving the clutch pedal falls to the floor and I need to pull it back up with my hand to regain pressure then I have full pressure back again I do not need to pump pedal are nothing like that to regain pressure.
So far I have replaced the Master and Slave cylinder, I have also upgraded to a braided clutch line down at the gearbox still no joy, same problem I'm not losing any fluid what so ever, I have bleed the full system replaced fluids 2 if not 3 times, nothing seems to work.
The only thing I have realised is that it seems to happen more when the car is sitting idle taking over for a long period of time say 30 minuets are so then when u go to drive it seems to happen.
Could it be some clutch pipe heating up in the engine bay due to extreme heat thus causing me to lose pressure?
It can't be the braided clutch pipe as it is near no real heat; the pipes taking fluid from master cylinder to the slave cylinder are copper. The only pipe I can see is the pipe which takes the clutch fluid from the tank to the master cylinder it is very close to extreme heats could this be the cause of all my bother?
Or can anyone else think of what it could be?
Thanks for any help
The symptoms are very strange at times I lost complete clutch pressure when driving the clutch pedal falls to the floor and I need to pull it back up with my hand to regain pressure then I have full pressure back again I do not need to pump pedal are nothing like that to regain pressure.
So far I have replaced the Master and Slave cylinder, I have also upgraded to a braided clutch line down at the gearbox still no joy, same problem I'm not losing any fluid what so ever, I have bleed the full system replaced fluids 2 if not 3 times, nothing seems to work.
The only thing I have realised is that it seems to happen more when the car is sitting idle taking over for a long period of time say 30 minuets are so then when u go to drive it seems to happen.
Could it be some clutch pipe heating up in the engine bay due to extreme heat thus causing me to lose pressure?
It can't be the braided clutch pipe as it is near no real heat; the pipes taking fluid from master cylinder to the slave cylinder are copper. The only pipe I can see is the pipe which takes the clutch fluid from the tank to the master cylinder it is very close to extreme heats could this be the cause of all my bother?
Or can anyone else think of what it could be?
Thanks for any help
Edited by Bennym on Saturday 12th February 19:04
You've done all the right things by the sounds of it but I would still suggest it's air in the system. The M3 (E36) and M5 (E34) are difficult to bleed completely in my experience.
If it won't bleed (I've used pressure, vacuum and manual) then the trick that worked for me (found on the interweb) was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell house and place it as high as possible with the bleed nipple uppermost (it's underneath when on the car). Make sure the piston won't fly out (G clamp) and then bleed again. Pumping the pedal vigorously (but not so mad it reverses the seals) should force any air to the end and then open the bleed nipple, with the bleed now being upper most the air should come out easier rather than being trapped.
It cured my M5 issue which was exactly the same as yours, pedal dropping to the floor when warm.
If it won't bleed (I've used pressure, vacuum and manual) then the trick that worked for me (found on the interweb) was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell house and place it as high as possible with the bleed nipple uppermost (it's underneath when on the car). Make sure the piston won't fly out (G clamp) and then bleed again. Pumping the pedal vigorously (but not so mad it reverses the seals) should force any air to the end and then open the bleed nipple, with the bleed now being upper most the air should come out easier rather than being trapped.
It cured my M5 issue which was exactly the same as yours, pedal dropping to the floor when warm.
Mroad said:
You've done all the right things by the sounds of it but I would still suggest it's air in the system. The M3 (E36) and M5 (E34) are difficult to bleed completely in my experience.
If it won't bleed (I've used pressure, vacuum and manual) then the trick that worked for me (found on the interweb) was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell house and place it as high as possible with the bleed nipple uppermost (it's underneath when on the car). Make sure the piston won't fly out (G clamp) and then bleed again. Pumping the pedal vigorously (but not so mad it reverses the seals) should force any air to the end and then open the bleed nipple, with the bleed now being upper most the air should come out easier rather than being trapped.
It cured my M5 issue which was exactly the same as yours, pedal dropping to the floor when warm.
Thanks for the advice. Is DOT 4 Clutch and Brake fluid ok for E36 M3 Evo or should i use DOT 5?If it won't bleed (I've used pressure, vacuum and manual) then the trick that worked for me (found on the interweb) was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell house and place it as high as possible with the bleed nipple uppermost (it's underneath when on the car). Make sure the piston won't fly out (G clamp) and then bleed again. Pumping the pedal vigorously (but not so mad it reverses the seals) should force any air to the end and then open the bleed nipple, with the bleed now being upper most the air should come out easier rather than being trapped.
It cured my M5 issue which was exactly the same as yours, pedal dropping to the floor when warm.
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