Rocker cover gasket and CAS O-Ring
Rocker cover gasket and CAS O-Ring
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Discussion

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
Afternoon Chaps smile

I've been forced to finally crack on an sort oil leak from the rocker cover so going to put a new gasket and O-Ring in this weekend.

1) Is it vital to torque the bolts? or can i just use a standard socket wrench and do them up and an extra quarter turn? I know overtightening can cause more oil leak problems that it solves.

2) Are the blobs of sealant mandatory ? If so anyone know of any images online showing where it has been applied prior to the cover going back on? Want to make sure i put it in the right place and dont over do it on the amount.

3) Will any generic high temp sealant do from halfords or a motor factor ?

Cheers

Steve

Richyvrlimited

1,870 posts

187 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
J-Tuner said:
Afternoon Chaps smile

I've been forced to finally crack on an sort oil leak from the rocker cover so going to put a new gasket and O-Ring in this weekend.

1) Is it vital to torque the bolts? or can i just use a standard socket wrench and do them up and an extra quarter turn? I know overtightening can cause more oil leak problems that it solves.

2) Are the blobs of sealant mandatory ? If so anyone know of any images online showing where it has been applied prior to the cover going back on? Want to make sure i put it in the right place and dont over do it on the amount.

3) Will any generic high temp sealant do from halfords or a motor factor ?

Cheers
Steve
1) It's not vital to torque the bolts, but be aware the head is alui and the bolts relatively soft. The torque figure is in inch pounds, which people mis-read as foot pounds, hilarity does not ensue wink As long as your arm is reasonably calibrated and you're sensible you'll be fine.

2) Yes they are or it'll leak. the blobs of sealant go wherever there's a 'hump' so at the front where the cam pulleys go and at the back where the CAS goes, it's pretty bloody obvious when you take the camcover off.

3) Any sealant will do, it doesn't get *that* hot. Been known to use bathroom sealant before now...



J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
Hi Richy

Excellent!

Good to know of the torque confusion and sealant. I think i'll give the bathroom sealant a miss this time round though hehe

I think i am confident of just using my well calibrated arm tightening up so its firmly held as opposed bastid tight. Seems silly shelling out of a torque wrench just for this job.

Gonna dig out the bolt sequence as well methinks smile

Cheers

Steve


Richyvrlimited

1,870 posts

187 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
J-Tuner said:
Hi Richy

Excellent!

Good to know of the torque confusion and sealant. I think i'll give the bathroom sealant a miss this time round though hehe

I think i am confident of just using my well calibrated arm tightening up so its firmly held as opposed bastid tight. Seems silly shelling out of a torque wrench just for this job.

Gonna dig out the bolt sequence as well methinks smile

Cheers

Steve
I actually disagree with the torque sequence. It states you should go around the camcover in a circle.

I prefer to do opposites, (like you would a wheel), and work inwards. I also don't torque fully I'll go around the cover a few times slowly tightening everything up.

rovermorris999

5,321 posts

213 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
Same here on bolt sequences. I've always done opposites first and just nipped first then progressively tighter in stages.

MX-5 Lazza

7,954 posts

243 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
Me too - except I work from the middle outwards.

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
That makes my life easier so perhaps i'll do the same. I'm definitely an advocate of tightening up and going round a few times again to gradually bring it to the required level.

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
Right i made a start on this yesterday and seemed to be making good progress right up until a seized bolt gave way whilst i was leaning on it and badly sliced open the back of my hand on the firewall. Had to abandon the job. BASTID!

Anyway this bolt i believe was 1 of 2 that hold the coilpack/metal bracket on the rear of the rocker cover and also hold the cover firmly in place ?

My question is before i go and smash my left hand undoing the other one - do i actually need to get these off or am i missing something? It looked to me that they had to come out but greatful for any advice to save my hands from any more slicing!

Cheers

Steve

Digby

8,340 posts

270 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
J-Tuner said:
Afternoon Chaps smile



2) Are the blobs of sealant mandatory ? If so anyone know of any images online showing where it has been applied prior to the cover going back on? Want to make sure i put it in the right place and dont over do it on the amount.
I remember this coming up on here before.Some said they never do it, some always did.I have never done it and it's never used a drop *touches wood*

SimonV8ster

12,926 posts

252 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
What model MX5 is this on ? Mk1/MK2 ?

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
It's a 97 MK1 smile

towelie

269 posts

194 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
lol i misread the torque units when i did mine.. snapped bolt woops.. was lucky though it didn't f the head..
I put blobs of high temp. silicpne sealant in the corners of the pulley, bits.. doesn't seem to be leaking so alls good!

Digby

8,340 posts

270 months

Monday 13th June 2011
quotequote all
J-Tuner said:
Anyway this bolt i believe was 1 of 2 that hold the coilpack/metal bracket on the rear of the rocker cover and also hold the cover firmly in place ?

My question is before i go and smash my left hand undoing the other one - do i actually need to get these off or am i missing something? It looked to me that they had to come out but greatful for any advice to save my hands from any more slicing!

Cheers

Steve
Yes, it has to come off by the way and so might your strut brace if you have a low slung one at all.

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Tuesday 14th June 2011
quotequote all
Ok cheers for the info. I'm gonna stick some thick gloves and small breaker bar on for the last one to save my hands lol

J-Tuner

Original Poster:

2,855 posts

267 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
quotequote all
Mission success. A few of my findings however as a mechanical nooblet. I may or may not have read the guides/instructions properly, for forgive me if these points have been highlighted ..

This is in relation to the Mk1 1.8 :

- The coilpack has to come off to remove the CAS Sensor.

- There are 3 bolts to the coilpack, 2 of which screw into the back of the rocker cover and have the potential to slice the back of your hand open when the bolts let go suddenly. Lesson learned - wear thick leather gloves if you dont have a bar to extend your ratchet beyond the bulkhead.

- The 3rd bolt for the coilpack is a complete bd to get at and takes ages to undo/do up.

- There is a metal bracket (which i have no idea what purpose it serves) by the CAS Sensor - i found removing this made things easier when trying to remove the sensor itself.

-Tipex is NOT recommended for marking the CAS Sensor postion. The oil took it off pretty quickly. I had to put the sensor back with a best guess - luckily the car drives fine.

- Re-installing the CAS sensor is so much easier when the rocker cover is off.

- I tightened up my cover as you would do a wheel : Go to opposite corners then down the middle. Then reverse that etc until all tight. I went round about 7-8 times taking my time.

Result is a perfect fix - it was much more of a ballache than i first envisaged if i am honest - either i am just not very good at mechanical work or the majority are very good.

Hope this helps someone !

cheers

Steve