Discussion
Clutch started biting low today and by the time I got home it was creeping along with the clutch buried in the carpet 
A quick look under the car and I could see something dripping from in front of the bulkhead towards the driver's side, so I am assuming the clutch flexi hose has let go (or master/slave cylinder). The reservoir still looks full - is that normal? I guess it only leaks when the clutch is being pressed - right?
Looks like a PITA to get to without a lift - somebody tell me this is an easy and cheap job please! Thinking of getting it recovered to my local Mazda dealer as it'll cost a lot to get it down to Mark in Chatham...
A quick look under the car and I could see something dripping from in front of the bulkhead towards the driver's side, so I am assuming the clutch flexi hose has let go (or master/slave cylinder). The reservoir still looks full - is that normal? I guess it only leaks when the clutch is being pressed - right?
Looks like a PITA to get to without a lift - somebody tell me this is an easy and cheap job please! Thinking of getting it recovered to my local Mazda dealer as it'll cost a lot to get it down to Mark in Chatham...
h of a job. In theory simple; in practice, no access, arm at full reach, grazed knuckles, seized bolts, clutch fluid on drive, sheared unions...Its really easy
I have done 3 now when we buy a new to us mk1 I do it as a matter of course .
www.mx5oc.co.uk
© 2008 MX-5 Owners Club Ltd
How to replace a clutch slave cylinder NA (MK1) & NB (MK2)
A leaking clutch release cylinder results in poor clutch pedal feel, poor gear selection & in the end being unable to select gears. Here’s how to fit a new release cylinder from MX-5 Parts to this 1991 MX-5 (the procedure is the same on NB). Access to the cylinder from underneath will be restricted by under covers on later cars – especially the NB F/L (Mk 2.5) Sport.
1: The clutch slave cylinder can be accessed through the right hand front wheel arch…
2: …and from under the vehicle.
3: By putting a hose clamp on the rubber clutch pipe that runs across the top of the bell housing you keep air out of the system which helps when you bleed the system later.
4: With the cylinder still mounted to the gearbox, undo the 10mm pipe union.
5: Next undo the two 12mm bolts that secure the clutch cylinder to the gearbox. Access the upper one through the wheel arch…
Any work you do to your car is entirely your own responsibility. If in doubt, you should check
technical advice with an independent, qualified person who has seen your car.
The MX-5 Owners Club, its officers and forum contributors accept no responsibility for any damage
caused to your person or property as a result of you following or not following the advice offered.
www.mx5oc.co.uk
© 2008 MX-5 Owners Club Ltd
6: …and the lower one from underneath. You can see the clutch fluid leaking out of the removed dust boot in this photo. Remove the cylinder. Take care as this fluid will strip paint!
7: I put a blob of grease in the cylinder piston cup and on the end of the push rod to help reduce noise.
8: Then fit the dust boot and put another grease blob on the tip of the push rod where it contacts the clutch release arm.
9: Screw the pipe union in all the way before bolting the cylinder to the transmission, this helps the pipe seat correctly.
10: Next bolt the cylinder up (20Nm), ensuring the push rod is located in the clutch release fork and then tighten the pipe union (17Nm).
You can now undo the bleed nipple (pictured) about a third of a turn and slip a bleed pipe over it.
11: Remove as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir then refill with new fluid.
12: If you clamped the pipe you can remove the clamp and the system should gravity bleed itself. Otherwise bleed it manually by slowly pumping the clutch pedal similar to bleeding brakes. Finally tighten the bleed nipple, top up the reservoir & fit the cap.
.
Any work you do to your car is entirely your own responsibility. If in doubt, you should check
technical advice with an independent, qualified person who has seen your car.
The MX-5 Owners Club, its officers and forum contributors accept no responsibility for any damage
caused to your person or property as a result of you following or not following the advice offered.
I have done 3 now when we buy a new to us mk1 I do it as a matter of course .
www.mx5oc.co.uk
© 2008 MX-5 Owners Club Ltd
How to replace a clutch slave cylinder NA (MK1) & NB (MK2)
A leaking clutch release cylinder results in poor clutch pedal feel, poor gear selection & in the end being unable to select gears. Here’s how to fit a new release cylinder from MX-5 Parts to this 1991 MX-5 (the procedure is the same on NB). Access to the cylinder from underneath will be restricted by under covers on later cars – especially the NB F/L (Mk 2.5) Sport.
1: The clutch slave cylinder can be accessed through the right hand front wheel arch…
2: …and from under the vehicle.
3: By putting a hose clamp on the rubber clutch pipe that runs across the top of the bell housing you keep air out of the system which helps when you bleed the system later.
4: With the cylinder still mounted to the gearbox, undo the 10mm pipe union.
5: Next undo the two 12mm bolts that secure the clutch cylinder to the gearbox. Access the upper one through the wheel arch…
Any work you do to your car is entirely your own responsibility. If in doubt, you should check
technical advice with an independent, qualified person who has seen your car.
The MX-5 Owners Club, its officers and forum contributors accept no responsibility for any damage
caused to your person or property as a result of you following or not following the advice offered.
www.mx5oc.co.uk
© 2008 MX-5 Owners Club Ltd
6: …and the lower one from underneath. You can see the clutch fluid leaking out of the removed dust boot in this photo. Remove the cylinder. Take care as this fluid will strip paint!
7: I put a blob of grease in the cylinder piston cup and on the end of the push rod to help reduce noise.
8: Then fit the dust boot and put another grease blob on the tip of the push rod where it contacts the clutch release arm.
9: Screw the pipe union in all the way before bolting the cylinder to the transmission, this helps the pipe seat correctly.
10: Next bolt the cylinder up (20Nm), ensuring the push rod is located in the clutch release fork and then tighten the pipe union (17Nm).
You can now undo the bleed nipple (pictured) about a third of a turn and slip a bleed pipe over it.
11: Remove as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir then refill with new fluid.
12: If you clamped the pipe you can remove the clamp and the system should gravity bleed itself. Otherwise bleed it manually by slowly pumping the clutch pedal similar to bleeding brakes. Finally tighten the bleed nipple, top up the reservoir & fit the cap.
.
Any work you do to your car is entirely your own responsibility. If in doubt, you should check
technical advice with an independent, qualified person who has seen your car.
The MX-5 Owners Club, its officers and forum contributors accept no responsibility for any damage
caused to your person or property as a result of you following or not following the advice offered.
Hmmmm, if I had time and another working car I might give it a go. As it is, I have one car in bits in a bodyshop with a slipping clutch, another on the drive dripping hydraulic fluid, another car that my wife is using, and a diary full of work!!
Just need to work out how to get it to the garage!
Thanks for posting the guide though - useful to read!
Just need to work out how to get it to the garage!
Thanks for posting the guide though - useful to read!
JFReturns said:
Where do you live? Mark @ Freelance does have a tow truck, and they have been very helpful to me in the past in terms of getting my car to the garage such as picking and dropping it off from my house (albeit working).
Interesting, I spoke to Freelance earlier today who are going to squeeze it in later in the week. Hoping to use my RAC At Home membership to get it down there, but if that doesn't work might ask Mark, didn't realise he had a tow truck! One of those occasions where you wish you had a Disco + twin axle trailer parked out back 
RAC guy diagnosed as the flexi pipe that runs across the bellhousing at the bulkhead, you can see it oozing when you pump the clutch. Both unions look easy enough to get to but I have no time.
Been recovered to the local main dealers who have already made noises about parts being difficult to get because "it's an import" - yes, I'm sure the RHD UK cars use completely different hydraulic flexi pipes to RHD JDM cars
Preparing my wallet for a full on raping as I speak.
Kicking myself for not giving it a go myself, it was just the bleeding that was worrying me.
Edit:
To add insult to injury:
http://www.autolinkmx5.com/clutch-hose-flexible-mx...
£8 and some hydraulic fluid to top up
ETA: Anybody live near Orpington and fancy giving me a hand changing it at the side of the road?! They are ringing me with a quote later. Place your bets now. I reckon they will charge minimum 1 hour at £100ph or so, plus parts. I think no change from £150.
Been recovered to the local main dealers who have already made noises about parts being difficult to get because "it's an import" - yes, I'm sure the RHD UK cars use completely different hydraulic flexi pipes to RHD JDM cars
Preparing my wallet for a full on raping as I speak.
Kicking myself for not giving it a go myself, it was just the bleeding that was worrying me.
Edit:
To add insult to injury:
http://www.autolinkmx5.com/clutch-hose-flexible-mx...
£8 and some hydraulic fluid to top up
ETA: Anybody live near Orpington and fancy giving me a hand changing it at the side of the road?! They are ringing me with a quote later. Place your bets now. I reckon they will charge minimum 1 hour at £100ph or so, plus parts. I think no change from £150.
Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Thursday 15th September 12:59
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