Do I need a LSD for track days

[benny12]

Hello all.

I'm a bit new to all this so I beg for your patients. I've recently been turning my 94 mx5 mk1 1.8 into a track car. The mechanic thats helping/doing all the work says it will be crap without a LSD. Can anyone shed any light on this?? If it is better to get one, where from.
Thanks for your help

[SimonV8ster]

If you need one always good to look at MX5Nutz website - laods of spares always for sale on there.

Can't comment on whether you actually 'need' one though.

[D_G]

You will get better drive out of the corners (mainly in the wet) as with an open diff it will spin the inside rear wheel. On the limit you will get a bit more understeer and it will go sideways with both although I think it will be a bit more predictable with a LSD on the limit.
I would put one in.

[GravelBen]

LSD will be more fun than no LSD, but an open diff MX5 is still very good fun on track.

[rovermorris999]

Given a choice, I'd always have one. So if you're building a car, fit one. But if you just want to do a few track days with the car you already have and it doesn't have one, don't worry about it.

[benny12]

Thanks for the advice. MX5Nutz has a few at the £350 mark so I think I'll go for one from there

[MX-5 Lazza]

If I was you I'd do the first few trackdays with the open dif before fitting the LSD, that way you will be able to fel the difference and get a better idea of what's actually going on

[300bhp/ton]

Also depends how much power you are putting down, how much grip and what sort of suspension.

If with an open diff you aren't picking up the inside rear wheel when cornering, then I suspect you'll only get minor gains if any with an LSD.

[Richyvrlimited]

300bhp/ton said:

Also depends how much power you are putting down, how much grip and what sort of suspension.

If with an open diff you aren't picking up the inside rear wheel when cornering, then I suspect you'll only get minor gains if any with an LSD.

Even if you aren't spinning an inside wheel (picking one up would be irrelevant with a TorSen equipped LSD, one wheel in the air = open diff), the way the car drives is completely different.

It's far more throttle steerable, and much more involving and communicative.

[benny12]

I need to get my head around it really. The car is totally stipped out so when its wet its a complete night mare as I'm still on skinny tyres. (looking for some 15inch wheels and tyres as well).

The back comes out all the time, but I find it very hard to control, probably more me than the car. I'll see how I get on in the rain at Beford this weekend then start bothering you guys again.

[300bhp/ton]

benny12 said:

I need to get my head around it really. The car is totally stipped out so when its wet its a complete night mare as I'm still on skinny tyres. (looking for some 15inch wheels and tyres as well).

The back comes out all the time, but I find it very hard to control, probably more me than the car. I'll see how I get on in the rain at Beford this weekend then start bothering you guys again.

I think an LSD is worth it, esp if cost isn't an issue. I've always wanted on in my TR7 V8 and it needs it, but you're talking over a grand easy for the bits alone.

If the car is too tail happy now, is that power on or power off handling? Maybe a revision of the suspension and geo would be a good idea too.

[benny12]

the engine is standard. I've got complete new suspension that has worked wonders. I think the crap tryes are half the problem. In the dry its OK. The garage that is doing some of the work, the boss is an ex driver and says it desperatly needs one after he took it for a spin. I've not exactly got loads of cash to throw at it. He says it should be the every next thing.

My concern is I'm too much of a novice to really know the difference and how to drive it with a lsd. I feel maybe the wheels and tyres, then the brakes, then once i've done a couple of track days go for the lsd and see if i notice the improvement.

Sound half sensible??

[300bhp/ton]

benny12 said:

the engine is standard. I've got complete new suspension that has worked wonders. I think the crap tryes are half the problem. In the dry its OK. The garage that is doing some of the work, the boss is an ex driver and says it desperatly needs one after he took it for a spin. I've not exactly got loads of cash to throw at it. He says it should be the every next thing.

My concern is I'm too much of a novice to really know the difference and how to drive it with a lsd. I feel maybe the wheels and tyres, then the brakes, then once i've done a couple of track days go for the lsd and see if i notice the improvement.

Sound half sensible??

I don't think there is a right or wrong approach.

That said, just some high temp brake fluid and track suitable pads would be a cheap and effective upgrade.

Tyre wise, what are you running now?

If on a budget I'd say have a look at these: http://www.maxsport.uk.com/acatalog/Maxsport_RB5_T...

Very affordable and road legal if you still drive it on the road.


I do think an LSD is worth it, and I don't think you need to be a great driver to feel or know the difference.

[benny12]

standard 13inch wheels with some very budget tyers. That website is great thanks. Any advice on wheels?

[Riknos]

benny12 said:

the engine is standard. I've got complete new suspension that has worked wonders. I think the crap tryes are half the problem. In the dry its OK. The garage that is doing some of the work, the boss is an ex driver and says it desperatly needs one after he took it for a spin. I've not exactly got loads of cash to throw at it. He says it should be the every next thing.

My concern is I'm too much of a novice to really know the difference and how to drive it with a lsd. I feel maybe the wheels and tyres, then the brakes, then once i've done a couple of track days go for the lsd and see if i notice the improvement.

Sound half sensible??

Yes. Get the mandatory things sorted, decent tyres and brakes etc, then after a couple of track days you may not need it. Or borrow someone's car with an LSD for a back to back experience and see if you notice the difference? I'm sure most of us don't actually fully utilise the benefits of an LSD..

[300bhp/ton]

benny12 said:

standard 13inch wheels with some very budget tyers. That website is great thanks. Any advice on wheels?

either stick with them if cost is an issue, you can get the RB5's in 13". Or I'd trawl ebay/scappies and buy some used mx-5 alloys. I'd guess 15" is a good size for an MX-5.

Then it depends how much grip vs movement you want. Really wide tyres should offer more grip in the dry, but likely let go bigger. Narrower tyres will probably work the suspension harder and maybe not as much ultimate grip, but likely to be more progressive and with a nicer feel.

[benny12]

Really appreciate the help. To work now so I'll let you know how i get on with whats on the car and then start some more pestering. Thanks for the help.

[rovermorris999]

I'd go with factory 15'' wheels and Federal RSR tyres. Standard brakes should be fine especially when you are starting out, at least they are on my MK2 1.8 with factory pads. It's a light car with not much power and the key to quick laps is to carry speed through the corners so you'll be braking a lot less than lardy saloons. I've not cooked the pads yet despite hard days at Cadwell and Blyton.
Just get it running well with decent geometry and if you want to invest some money put it into driver training. The cheapest and best upgrade is to upgrade the nut behind the wheel.

[nsa]

What tyres exactly? Fit good tyres first and see if that makes a difference before spending more money on an LSD.

[D_G]

rovermorris999 said:

Standard brakes should be fine especially when you are starting out, at least they are on my MK2 1.8 with factory pads. It's a light car with not much power and the key to quick laps is to carry speed through the corners so you'll be braking a lot less than lardy saloons. I've not cooked the pads yet despite hard days at Cadwell and Blyton.
Just get it running well with decent geometry and if you want to invest some money put it into driver training. The cheapest and best upgrade is to upgrade the nut behind the wheel.

I'd uprate the brakes as one of the first upgrades, even if its just the pads and fluid. Last thing you want is fade at 100MPH 200m from a corner....trust me I know!