Ticking

[GBB]

Dragged my MX5 out of it's winter hibernation yesterday. I'd planned to use it more but the recent cold weather and snow mean I've not yet been able to finish putting it back together after it's de-rusting/undersealing session.

It seems to have developed a very mechanical "tick" - any ideas? I'm pondering if it's got a stuck valve? The sound seemed quieter when I started it again several hours later.

[gforceg]

Does it vary in line with engine speed? Almost certainly just oil not making it somewhere it needs to get. It'll probably go away after a short drive. Might be best to change oil anywhy if it's been sat for a while including the recent cold period.

Maybe an arcing plug lead? Try to pin down exactly where it's coming from.

Good luck.

[Mellow Matt]

Is it quite a gentle steady clicking? It could be the charcoal canister; you can get rid of it if you want: http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...

[MX-5 Lazza]

Very common. Mk1s have HLAs (Hydraulic Lifter Assemblies i.e. hydraulic tappets) which can get a bit sticky if left for a while or if it needs an oil-change.
Changing the oil for a quality full synthetic like Mobil1 0W-40 should clear it and keep it good for longer.

[GBB]

MX-5 Lazza said:

Very common. Mk1s have HLAs (Hydraulic Lifter Assemblies i.e. hydraulic tappets) which can get a bit sticky if left for a while or if it needs an oil-change.
Changing the oil for a quality full synthetic like Mobil1 0W-40 should clear it and keep it good for longer.

Thanks, that was my guess. With mileage at 150K I was thinking it might be better not running a full synthetic, maybe a 10/40? maybe do a flush first to clear deposits?

any thoughts?

[MX-5 Lazza]

150k? It's just about run-in

I use 0w-40 Mobil1 in all of mine. Mk2.5 has a similar problem in that the VVT is hydraulic and can rattle.

On an older car I wouldn't use a flush as it might cause seals to leak. Full synthetics will have enough detergents to clean the engine without a flush.

[GBB]

MX-5 Lazza said:

150k? It's just about run-in

I use 0w-40 Mobil1 in all of mine. Mk2.5 has a similar problem in that the VVT is hydraulic and can rattle.

On an older car I wouldn't use a flush as it might cause seals to leak. Full synthetics will have enough detergents to clean the engine without a flush.

Thanks

[lee111s]

Had the same with mine, was like it for a couple of months. Serviced it this weekend changing oil, filter, plugs and fuel filter and the noise has gone

[skinny]

when i left mine for a few months whilst i was upgrading various bits, it tapped badly on start-up. i think it must have been the prolonged squashing or maybe even just draining of a few of the hydraulic tappets. it didn't clear up during a good run, but it clear up over a repeated starts over the next few days. but then, i knew my oil was good. if you don't know your oil is good, you might want to change it first.

[anonymous-user]

Guys, can anyone comment on this noise from my engine? (Sorry for hi-jack!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFsD4-bThFM&fe...

posted the following on Nutz, and got some suggestions. But can't get under the car until Friday, and wondered if anyone else had any ideas for me to investigate then?

From Nutz said:

From inside the car it sounds like a whirring, but with the bonnet up you can also hear what sounds like a knocking.... Which is what is worrying me. I think the noise was starting to quieten down by the time I got to work (15 mins) but not 100% sure. The speed of the noise gets quicker as the engine speed increases.

I've uploaded a video - please excuse/ignore the shoddy camerawork!

TIA

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 5th February 13:46

[bert11]

sounds harsh! defo not HLA on that one

[snotrag]

Well, its rotational.

First try removing the Aux belt, which will discount the PAS pump and A/C if you have it.

You can also try it without the other belt too, to discount the alternator - but just be very careful with this as you'll have disabled the water pump too.

I had this one, which baffled me for a while -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonholehan/45025584...

Doesn't come across well in video but not that far off your noise.

It was a timing belt tensioner bearing.

Use something long and rigid, wood preferably, like a 'stethoscope' and touch it on the engine until you can try narrow down where the noise is coming from.

Waterpump, maybe at the front of the engine. Check for any signs of coolant right at the bottom of the engine, front of the sump.

[skinny]

Nyphur said:

Guys, can anyone comment on this noise from my engine? (Sorry for hi-jack!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFsD4-bThFM&fe...

posted the following on Nutz, and got some suggestions. But can't get under the car until Friday, and wondered if anyone else had any ideas for me to investigate then?

TIA

Edited by Nyphur on Tuesday 5th February 13:46

hmm that's not a tappety ticking - sounds more like belt. make sure the three 10mm bolts on the waterpump pulley are tight, and check the tension of the waterpump and alternator belts.

[anonymous-user]

Thanks all.

Took the car to my mechanic friend yesterday, started the car up and it the noise was bloody gone! All the way to the mechanic it was present, but it vanished as soon as it was in the workshop.

Car is due cam belt/waterpump, so will see if the problem remains after those have been changed.

Thanks

[anonymous-user]

Finally got all the belts and waterpump changed, and the noise has gone

Thanks for the help

[J-Tuner]

My car was sat for 2 weeks away from me not long ago and when I went to collect it it was ticking really badly. I thought the body shop had thrashed it and damaged something. Was quite worried!

It took a couple of good drives for it to go. I know the oil is fully synth so wasn't concerned on that side of things, more confused it decided of all times to do that when picking the car up from another person. It's been stood for weeks after and not happened again. Random!

Good call on charcoal canister as I get a faint ticking - gonna pull that out when I get a chance!!

Cheers

Steve

[Buff Mchugelarge]

Hello Mx5 people

Anyway,
My Mx5 ticks very occasionally but clears almost instantly. I'm going to change the oil/ filters etc but what oil should I use?

It's a '94 Eunos 1.8 with 200K miles (yes, miles. 315K k's!)
It's been well serviced and cared for, but I'm unsure weather to go with fully synth or not?

[Yamatrix850]

10W40 semi synth. Cheap, available, works.

I recall Mazda modifying recommendation to 5W30, but that makes the HLAs rattle.

Not convinced that a 0W40 fully synth is needed on something that age / mileage - 0W is surely far too thin?

[anonymous-user]

I've had the really loud ticking noise from my engine twice now in about 6 years, both times after the engine has been unused for more than a few weeks - first time was the first startup after I installed the recon engine, second time was a few months ago after I'd had the head skimmed and rebuilt the engine again after blowing the hg (due to the recon engine apparently never having had a head skim ).

Anyway, both times I had a stuck HLA and it sounded really clattery, so I let the engine idle up to normal working temperature (just idle, no revving / driving), turned off and let it cool right down, then on next start the HLA has freed itself and the noise has never returned.

Whether letting the HLA free itself is good for the engine or not I've no idea, but it seems to have survived 6+ years of energetic use and is still going strong.

I also normally get a few seconds of HLA clatter on cold start after using fully-synth 5w30 for years, swapped recently to semi-synth 10w40 and get no start clatter at all.

Edited by anonymous-user on Sunday 10th March 09:02

[GBB]

Yamatrix850 said:

10W40 semi synth. Cheap, available, works.

Thanks, next job for me too.