Non starting NB Eunos - Crank or Cam sensor?
Non starting NB Eunos - Crank or Cam sensor?
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FD3Si

Original Poster:

857 posts

167 months

Saturday 9th February 2013
quotequote all
Right, to cut a long story short, my wife's car has been off the road with alternator issues for yonks (about 18 months). Finally got round to sorting it, started, ran fine for about a minute, then just died. Now she won't restart. Just churns and churns. Occasionally she sounds like she's about to start, but then gives up.

Now, it did this when I got her (had been sat around then as well) and we finally narrowed it down tot he crank or cam angle sensor - I say both, as I managed to get replacements of both, and a mate fitted them both while I was 100 miles away, and it ran fine afterwards, so I don't know which fixed it!

So, is there a way to find out which (if any) may be at fault? It's a bit pricey to blindly replace both.

Things of note:
it's a JDM 1998 MK 1.6 Eunos (so no immobiliser)
Rev counter doesn't move when cranking.
Cams are turning
Ran fine before going off the road, except for the alternator issues.
I don't know anyone with a MK2 I can try either sensor from frown

Any help very much appreciated!
Si

Oldandslow

2,405 posts

229 months

Saturday 9th February 2013
quotequote all
You could check to see if there's a spark. If there is then it's probably not the sensor.

Is it the same fuel that's been in it 18 months? Might be old hat but it's supposed to go off after long periods.

I onlt know the early 1.6 and it only has a cam sensor. You sure this has both?

FD3Si

Original Poster:

857 posts

167 months

Saturday 9th February 2013
quotequote all
I've just put 10l of fresh fuel in, and it's doing the same unfortunately.
Yup, MK2 have two sensors - 1 crank, one cam. I['d put up a photo but to be honest it looks a bit like the Mary Rose.

I think I've found out how to pull fault codes, just trying to find a spare LED and resistor at the mo!

Oldandslow

2,405 posts

229 months

Saturday 9th February 2013
quotequote all
Not sure of the actual process but you can check sensors with a multimeter to see if the resistance changes within limits as you slowly (ie manually) turn the crank. Would identify or eliminate.

FD3Si

Original Poster:

857 posts

167 months

Monday 25th February 2013
quotequote all
Well, it starts and runs!
You're going to love this...

I have a habit of leaving fuel caps from cars on top of them and then driving off at the petrol station after filling up. Well, I may have at some point done this in my wife's DC2. I then may have robbed the cap from her MX5 and put that in the DC2, as the '5 was laid up. And replaced it with a jam jar lid leant over the filler neck.
Well, it turns out this isn't air tight - who knew?
Can you see where this is going yet?

Well, it basically turns out that cars like running on fuel, rather than a heady emulsion of fuel and, err, condensated water. With me yet...? redface

Yes, I'm an idiot of the first degree. Plugs were wet, but smelt quite watery. Huge thanks to Pete, a mate of a mate, who did the rudimentary tests, then disconnected the fuel feed, and turned the engine over LOTS with the pump disconnected. Then removed filter, sprayed brake cleaner. Nothing...nothing...nothing...splutter..splutter (lots of spluttering) and BOOM into life!

Yup, if you are parking up for a long time, make sure your tank is sealed redface

Thanks all so much for your help, hugely, hugely appreciated. Virtual beers all round.
Now, MOT time biggrin

On another note - anybody want to buy a fully working crank angle or cam angle sensor?!