Ebays cheapest coilovers, A big mistake?
Discussion
So, Got my first '5 and already formulating a plan for improvement. I feel the standard set up has gone a bit 'boaty' so before I get the full alignment done I want to change out the OEM stuff for something adjustable. Reason being is that I need to go slammed for shows and be able to c-spanner it back up to optimal ride height just for the driving pleasure. Sooo I've seen these cheap and cheerfull coilies on the bay so my question is this. Has anyone had these before and how do they perform?
Linky linky
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Coilover-Suspension-Kit-MAZD...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COILOVER-MAZDA-MX5-MIATA-NA-...
Cheers guys
Lee
Linky linky
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Coilover-Suspension-Kit-MAZD...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COILOVER-MAZDA-MX5-MIATA-NA-...
Cheers guys
Lee
I've just had a brief read through one of the topics on Nutz, and those that are against them haven't tried them, whilst those that have fitted them say positive things (though they are not really for track use as too soft).
For the price, it seems like a real bargain, especially as they come with three years warranty.
For the price, it seems like a real bargain, especially as they come with three years warranty.
I've no axe to grind either way, but I don't like skimping (unnecessarily) on tyres, suspension or brakes. And I always suspect that things are cheap for a reason...
A warranty or guarantee is only any use if you can enforce it. Do you have to ship the units back to China if they go wrong?
A warranty or guarantee is only any use if you can enforce it. Do you have to ship the units back to China if they go wrong?
FWIW i had cheap coilovers on my mk1 golf for years, they are fine if you want to go low and are considerably stiffer than standard.
however, they are always a bit crashy and less refined than good sets.
at £150 however its hard to say no ... im looking at some as i just want to go low etc
however, they are always a bit crashy and less refined than good sets.
at £150 however its hard to say no ... im looking at some as i just want to go low etc
Yeah pretty much my sentiments exactly, I'm not too fussed about a harder ride as I had the cheapest springs I could find on my Punto and they were a little hard but I was pleasantly surprised at the gains. These racelands seem to be the way forward as my budget is tight...real tight. I'd love to go all out and get teins and stuff but thats never going to happen on minimum wage. I think I've heard enough good stuff about the budget option to say they'll be reasonable and still an improvent over standard and have the versitility I need so I can go low for the large meets and back up again for my own driving pleasure. Once I get them fitted and my geo done I'll report back with how she feels. After seeing the latest thread on alignment I just cant wait to get mine done as from what I can tell its never had it.
[Edited for shonky grammar].
[Edited for shonky grammar].
Edited by MixxyMatosis on Sunday 11th April 12:49
I've just fitted some, handling has been transformed and I haven't even had the geometry done yet. (I say I fitted them, someone else did it and I was a mere assistant. Thanks, Neil.)
Couple of little hints:
First, wind them up at least an inch before fitting; if you leave them on the lowest setting the bottom of the spring where the adjusting nuts are will foul the top wishbone on the front and you won't get it on. On the back the driveshaft will foul the spring; it will go on but there won't be room to get the adjusting spanner in. (It's probably easier anyway to have it too high and come down as you are not fighting the weight of the car when you turn the spanner.)
We didn't have the problem that some have reported, in that the shock bottom mount has to be ground away to fit; mine went straight in with a little persuasion.
Finally if your car is not in its first flush of youth, make sure any nuts you have to remove are first given a good soak in WD-40 or whatever. We forgot this bit at first. Left front took 3 hours, right front 2 hours, left rear 1 hour, right rear 15 minutes!
By sheer chance the rear ride height was correct, front was a centimetre too low - that's approximately six turns of the nut.
Ride height is now 310mm all round, was previously nearer 345.
Proof of the pudding, before and after shots:
Couple of little hints:
First, wind them up at least an inch before fitting; if you leave them on the lowest setting the bottom of the spring where the adjusting nuts are will foul the top wishbone on the front and you won't get it on. On the back the driveshaft will foul the spring; it will go on but there won't be room to get the adjusting spanner in. (It's probably easier anyway to have it too high and come down as you are not fighting the weight of the car when you turn the spanner.)
We didn't have the problem that some have reported, in that the shock bottom mount has to be ground away to fit; mine went straight in with a little persuasion.
Finally if your car is not in its first flush of youth, make sure any nuts you have to remove are first given a good soak in WD-40 or whatever. We forgot this bit at first. Left front took 3 hours, right front 2 hours, left rear 1 hour, right rear 15 minutes!
By sheer chance the rear ride height was correct, front was a centimetre too low - that's approximately six turns of the nut.
Ride height is now 310mm all round, was previously nearer 345.
Proof of the pudding, before and after shots:
Edited by Evangelion on Sunday 11th April 19:10
To give folks something to compare with... When I had my GAZ Golds fitted I just asked for them to be set to the ideal height for optimum handling. Tony (WiM) set them so that the lower wishbones were absolutely flat. I never bothered to check what the height ended up being before (because I don't care - I'm only interested in the handling and don't care about the aesthetics) but I've just checked them: F325 R330.
I have to say I'm with Lazza. Ride height is something that comes as a result of suspension setup - it is not the 'aim' in the first place.
Mines probably a touch too low for my liking on its current dampers (old pic but you get the idea)
I think really the rear needs to be a little higher than the front as there is limited travel on the rear, plus the rear suspension has to deal with greater inconsistencies in weight (ride height more affected by passenger and a full boot). Mine looks good, but really, when I eventually upgrade the suspension ill be after another half inch extra height at least.
Evangelion yours looks really low at the rear now...?
Mines probably a touch too low for my liking on its current dampers (old pic but you get the idea)
I think really the rear needs to be a little higher than the front as there is limited travel on the rear, plus the rear suspension has to deal with greater inconsistencies in weight (ride height more affected by passenger and a full boot). Mine looks good, but really, when I eventually upgrade the suspension ill be after another half inch extra height at least.
Evangelion yours looks really low at the rear now...?
Edited by snotrag on Sunday 11th April 20:27
Seem to remember reading somewhere on here that 30cms at the front and 31 at the rear worked well. Initially we set the front at 30 but the righthand mudflap was being chewed away every time I went round a corner. I have trimmed it a little so the front could go back down but I think I'll leave it.
How much do you advise the rear should go up Snotrag?
Also, I'd be interested to hear the theory behind the 'horizontal wishbones' idea.
How much do you advise the rear should go up Snotrag?
Also, I'd be interested to hear the theory behind the 'horizontal wishbones' idea.
All the MX5 racers (Max5 & Ma5da) set the front & rear the same height. It helps to prevent the front diving on hard braking. They also set the ride height so the wishbones are flat. The flat wishbones idea is because that will allow the suspension to work properly. I'm not too hot on the theory but going lower will put the roll centre of the chassis below the hub centres which will help prevent roll but will induce bump-steer & tramlining and make it more "lively". Higher and you'll get more roll but a more comfortable ride and a more docile feel.
My car should be set up flat. It was flat when it was fitted but we didn't actually measure the hub to arch, instead we measured ground to chassis as we were more interested in getting the chassis flat than setting a specific ride height and measuring chassis height is a more accurate way to do that.
My car should be set up flat. It was flat when it was fitted but we didn't actually measure the hub to arch, instead we measured ground to chassis as we were more interested in getting the chassis flat than setting a specific ride height and measuring chassis height is a more accurate way to do that.
Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Sunday 11th April 22:23
Handling is 100% better than before - and it wasn't bad then! Ride is a little harder, but not excessively hard.
We checked all the bushes and found them to be fine so didn't change them. Oh forgot to mention the boots; I'd already bought a new set but they weren't needed and due to the smaller diameter of the new springs wouldn't have fitted anyway. Boots that came with the new shocks doubled as bump stops.
As you can see from these photos:
We checked all the bushes and found them to be fine so didn't change them. Oh forgot to mention the boots; I'd already bought a new set but they weren't needed and due to the smaller diameter of the new springs wouldn't have fitted anyway. Boots that came with the new shocks doubled as bump stops.
As you can see from these photos:
Gizmo! said:
If anything I don't care about height but I do want to be able to stiffen them for trackdays...
GAZ GOLD!!!!!I have the GAZ Gold Pro with F400/R300 springs and the handling is superb without compromising too much on the ride. I haven't used this setup on track yet but it's the same setup we have on the PlanetMX5 track car so I'm confident it will be great on track too after turning them up 2 clicks
I believe the Ma5da racers use the same setup but with 500+lb front springs - they don't care about ride quality on the road though.
Anyone who wants to enjoy their car on road & track needs height & stiffness adjustable shocks
Update - mine have been fitted, and set to the highest setting. This still seems to give the '5 a lower stance, but I can't be 100% sure as I've gone from 15" wheels to the standard 14"s at the same time.
First off the mechanice was impressed with the quality, and surprised at the price. This was Mark from Freelance Mazda, and he knows MX5's inside out.
My impressions - best money I have ever spent on a car. I appreciate this is in comparison to knackered standard dampers but I cannot recommend them enough, though will reserve ultimate judgement until I have had a few months use. The ride and steering have been transformed to what I imagine it felt like when new.
First off the mechanice was impressed with the quality, and surprised at the price. This was Mark from Freelance Mazda, and he knows MX5's inside out.
My impressions - best money I have ever spent on a car. I appreciate this is in comparison to knackered standard dampers but I cannot recommend them enough, though will reserve ultimate judgement until I have had a few months use. The ride and steering have been transformed to what I imagine it felt like when new.
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