My first MX5 - numerous questions!
Discussion
Pictures will be coming soon though i doubt a faded red is anything but common!
Its a uk 1.8 - (insurance purposes, im young and the ph regular insurers quotes for were way too much!) and has had a repair on offside rear sill but after inspection it seems its to be of a good standard and has been undersealed afterwards. The near side sill has not been repaired and appears ok but i have just found a small rust pitt on the outer skin that is obviously going to go through to make a hole at soemopoint in the future. Im going to try and inspect inside the sill using guidance off the "rust proof your roadster" section on here and from mx5nutz and then shall post pics and questions as to what to do!
Bought some t cut the other day as didnt want to spend more money on something exensive if the cheap t cut would do the job which after a little go appears with elbow grease it might be do!
First questions!!! :
Have pumped tyres up to 27psi using guidance from manual and forums, reckon this is okay for 14's?
Hsd cambelt at 60k and its on 73 so thats okay, However hasnt been serviced for 12-13k so im doing that today as a priority! I have bought plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, ht leads, aux belt. Have'nt got sump washer as mazda garage bit far and i dont normally change washers and ive always been okay so far. Along with cambelt at 60k it had a major service but i am unsure what it has had. Do people think i should change the ht leads or is it a case of if it aint broke, dont fix?!? What about the fuel filter, how often does it need doing? Im skint so though if they need changing im happy to, im also happy with getting a refund!
How can i set my lights alignment up properly without going to a garage because full beam currently points at the sky and dip beam shines at other cars?!?!
Though the car at the rear seems to stick like sh*t to blanket and overal the car handles well it does feel quite twitchy - reading up leads me to believe 5's are sensitive to alignment and so 4 wheel alignment is advisable yes?
Had a look at rear subframe and other components and all seems bit rusty, whats best to halt and prevent more rust on these areas?
Im bit of tall lad and so my knees are catching on steering wheel a fair bit, can someone recommend a smaller second hand steering wheel i could keep an eye out for that doesnt look like its been ripped out of nearest "done up" saxo?!
Thanks for any help, pictures to follow asap.
Its a uk 1.8 - (insurance purposes, im young and the ph regular insurers quotes for were way too much!) and has had a repair on offside rear sill but after inspection it seems its to be of a good standard and has been undersealed afterwards. The near side sill has not been repaired and appears ok but i have just found a small rust pitt on the outer skin that is obviously going to go through to make a hole at soemopoint in the future. Im going to try and inspect inside the sill using guidance off the "rust proof your roadster" section on here and from mx5nutz and then shall post pics and questions as to what to do!
Bought some t cut the other day as didnt want to spend more money on something exensive if the cheap t cut would do the job which after a little go appears with elbow grease it might be do!
First questions!!! :
Have pumped tyres up to 27psi using guidance from manual and forums, reckon this is okay for 14's?
Hsd cambelt at 60k and its on 73 so thats okay, However hasnt been serviced for 12-13k so im doing that today as a priority! I have bought plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, ht leads, aux belt. Have'nt got sump washer as mazda garage bit far and i dont normally change washers and ive always been okay so far. Along with cambelt at 60k it had a major service but i am unsure what it has had. Do people think i should change the ht leads or is it a case of if it aint broke, dont fix?!? What about the fuel filter, how often does it need doing? Im skint so though if they need changing im happy to, im also happy with getting a refund!
How can i set my lights alignment up properly without going to a garage because full beam currently points at the sky and dip beam shines at other cars?!?!
Though the car at the rear seems to stick like sh*t to blanket and overal the car handles well it does feel quite twitchy - reading up leads me to believe 5's are sensitive to alignment and so 4 wheel alignment is advisable yes?
Had a look at rear subframe and other components and all seems bit rusty, whats best to halt and prevent more rust on these areas?
Im bit of tall lad and so my knees are catching on steering wheel a fair bit, can someone recommend a smaller second hand steering wheel i could keep an eye out for that doesnt look like its been ripped out of nearest "done up" saxo?!
Thanks for any help, pictures to follow asap.
seismic22 said:
Pictures will be coming soon though i doubt a faded red is anything but common!
Its a uk 1.8 - (insurance purposes, im young and the ph regular insurers quotes for were way too much!) and has had a repair on offside rear sill but after inspection it seems its to be of a good standard and has been undersealed afterwards. The near side sill has not been repaired and appears ok but i have just found a small rust pitt on the outer skin that is obviously going to go through to make a hole at soemopoint in the future. Im going to try and inspect inside the sill using guidance off the "rust proof your roadster" section on here and from mx5nutz and then shall post pics and questions as to what to do!
Bought some t cut the other day as didnt want to spend more money on something exensive if the cheap t cut would do the job which after a little go appears with elbow grease it might be do!
First questions!!! :
Have pumped tyres up to 27psi using guidance from manual and forums, reckon this is okay for 14's?
Hsd cambelt at 60k and its on 73 so thats okay, However hasnt been serviced for 12-13k so im doing that today as a priority! I have bought plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, ht leads, aux belt. Have'nt got sump washer as mazda garage bit far and i dont normally change washers and ive always been okay so far. Along with cambelt at 60k it had a major service but i am unsure what it has had. Do people think i should change the ht leads or is it a case of if it aint broke, dont fix?!? What about the fuel filter, how often does it need doing? Im skint so though if they need changing im happy to, im also happy with getting a refund!
How can i set my lights alignment up properly without going to a garage because full beam currently points at the sky and dip beam shines at other cars?!?!
Though the car at the rear seems to stick like sh*t to blanket and overal the car handles well it does feel quite twitchy - reading up leads me to believe 5's are sensitive to alignment and so 4 wheel alignment is advisable yes?
Had a look at rear subframe and other components and all seems bit rusty, whats best to halt and prevent more rust on these areas?
Im bit of tall lad and so my knees are catching on steering wheel a fair bit, can someone recommend a smaller second hand steering wheel i could keep an eye out for that doesnt look like its been ripped out of nearest "done up" saxo?!
Thanks for any help, pictures to follow asap.
are you buying your service parts from a mazda dealer?? check mx5parts first, i would think their prices are much better.Its a uk 1.8 - (insurance purposes, im young and the ph regular insurers quotes for were way too much!) and has had a repair on offside rear sill but after inspection it seems its to be of a good standard and has been undersealed afterwards. The near side sill has not been repaired and appears ok but i have just found a small rust pitt on the outer skin that is obviously going to go through to make a hole at soemopoint in the future. Im going to try and inspect inside the sill using guidance off the "rust proof your roadster" section on here and from mx5nutz and then shall post pics and questions as to what to do!
Bought some t cut the other day as didnt want to spend more money on something exensive if the cheap t cut would do the job which after a little go appears with elbow grease it might be do!
First questions!!! :
Have pumped tyres up to 27psi using guidance from manual and forums, reckon this is okay for 14's?
Hsd cambelt at 60k and its on 73 so thats okay, However hasnt been serviced for 12-13k so im doing that today as a priority! I have bought plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, ht leads, aux belt. Have'nt got sump washer as mazda garage bit far and i dont normally change washers and ive always been okay so far. Along with cambelt at 60k it had a major service but i am unsure what it has had. Do people think i should change the ht leads or is it a case of if it aint broke, dont fix?!? What about the fuel filter, how often does it need doing? Im skint so though if they need changing im happy to, im also happy with getting a refund!
How can i set my lights alignment up properly without going to a garage because full beam currently points at the sky and dip beam shines at other cars?!?!
Though the car at the rear seems to stick like sh*t to blanket and overal the car handles well it does feel quite twitchy - reading up leads me to believe 5's are sensitive to alignment and so 4 wheel alignment is advisable yes?
Had a look at rear subframe and other components and all seems bit rusty, whats best to halt and prevent more rust on these areas?
Im bit of tall lad and so my knees are catching on steering wheel a fair bit, can someone recommend a smaller second hand steering wheel i could keep an eye out for that doesnt look like its been ripped out of nearest "done up" saxo?!
Thanks for any help, pictures to follow asap.
for the lights, assuming they are the pop-ups, press button to pop them up, remove the plastic cover and use the adjustment screws around the rim, it should be easy enough to distinguish between the screws that hold the lights in and those that adjust them.
as for steering wheel, my personal preference is to stick with a momo item, you can bolt them onto your existing boss (if that's whats on there at the mo - you aren't airbagged up are you?) and they are fantastic quality. i have a 320mm momo jet in mine but the team is also a very nice wheel. not that cheap tho, search the 'bay.
I must get round to padding out that thread with some more information, and photos etc.
I had mine up on stands again the other day and after a few months the Dinitrol products look to be doing the job, its all nciely covered up underneath, and remaining clean etc, and none of it seems to have worn off other than a small area that I regularly crunch off a speed bump :hammer:
Once your sat in front of your car, and not the PC, its easy to work out how you get in for a good peek in the sills etc.
As for service items, looks like you've got it covered.
One thing i would say though is - I've not even had mine for 2 years and I'm just as of this week on my 3rd set of HT leads - no idea why it ruins them so quickly but it does, and changing them makes a big difference.
See how it runs and if theres any small signs of misfire or hesitation then get them changed, Autolink do what seems to be a decent set for £22 now IIRC.
Fuel filter, again, I'm sure it will be ok for a while as it is, but just bear it in mind and get one in, so that next time you have the time, or the cars up on ramps for something else, youcan change it over - as its probably never been done, and there only cheap.
I had mine up on stands again the other day and after a few months the Dinitrol products look to be doing the job, its all nciely covered up underneath, and remaining clean etc, and none of it seems to have worn off other than a small area that I regularly crunch off a speed bump :hammer:
Once your sat in front of your car, and not the PC, its easy to work out how you get in for a good peek in the sills etc.
As for service items, looks like you've got it covered.
One thing i would say though is - I've not even had mine for 2 years and I'm just as of this week on my 3rd set of HT leads - no idea why it ruins them so quickly but it does, and changing them makes a big difference.
See how it runs and if theres any small signs of misfire or hesitation then get them changed, Autolink do what seems to be a decent set for £22 now IIRC.
Fuel filter, again, I'm sure it will be ok for a while as it is, but just bear it in mind and get one in, so that next time you have the time, or the cars up on ramps for something else, youcan change it over - as its probably never been done, and there only cheap.
snotrag said:
One thing i would say though is - I've not even had mine for 2 years and I'm just as of this week on my 3rd set of HT leads - no idea why it ruins them so quickly but it does, and changing them makes a big difference.
Have you changed plugs as well? I've heard that old plugs can cause HT leads & coils to fail.I Have just changed everything bar the HT leads. It seems to run fine but ill give it bit more of a run. Only picked it up monday night. Servicing it was okay, oil filter is a bugger to do when u have big hands and though i de pressurised the fuel lines petrol still pissed all over me. As i said ill post some pics up soon and you can all laugh at the hilarious ling long tyres on the front.
Ive also just de plinthed it because the plinth had been smashed, behind the plinth the bumper is tiny bit pushed in but the number plate pretty much hides it and its nothing a bumper removal and a bit of hot water and some pushing out by hand wont sort.
Anyone got any suggestions on all the components underneath rust protection wise?
Got an exhaust rattle to and it sounds like heat shield managed to look at two at rear today and theyr okay, does it have one further up other than the manifold one?
Though ive already got all the "girl" and "gayman" jokes and it needs some elbow grease colour wise i bloody love it and im sure after alignment and swapping of the ling longs ill love it even more!
Ive also just de plinthed it because the plinth had been smashed, behind the plinth the bumper is tiny bit pushed in but the number plate pretty much hides it and its nothing a bumper removal and a bit of hot water and some pushing out by hand wont sort.
Anyone got any suggestions on all the components underneath rust protection wise?
Got an exhaust rattle to and it sounds like heat shield managed to look at two at rear today and theyr okay, does it have one further up other than the manifold one?
Though ive already got all the "girl" and "gayman" jokes and it needs some elbow grease colour wise i bloody love it and im sure after alignment and swapping of the ling longs ill love it even more!
seismic22 said:
Got an exhaust rattle to and it sounds like heat shield managed to look at two at rear today and theyr okay, does it have one further up other than the manifold one?
Likely the small shield on the exhaust downpipe a little way below the manifold. I lost count of the number of dremel cutting discs I broke getting that f
ker off! 
seismic22 said:
Though the car at the rear seems to stick like sh*t to blanket and overal the car handles well it does feel quite twitchy - reading up leads me to believe 5's are sensitive to alignment and so 4 wheel alignment is advisable yes?
Absolutely; these cars are very sensitive to mis-alignment, moody tyres
and tyre pressures.You need a proper full-alignment check, not a s
tFit one - check out alignmycar.co.uk for your nearest Hunter alignment machine. Should be around the £100 mark.Edited by bluetone on Thursday 8th July 07:56
bluetone said:
seismic22 said:
Just shut the door and the bloody wing mirrr has fallen off! Im on the case!
Another common problem but not that difficult to fix; the bits you need look like this.Bet your dipstick handle is the next thing to go....


Rattle might not be a heatshield, mine was a loose baffle.
Yup, I've done the door mirror bolt, AND the dipstick handle... hasn't everyone!?
As for the heatshield - theres one on the underside of where the gear shifter pokes through, and then the one under the boot floor.
I also found that the exhaust passes really close to the front subframe where the downpipe exits, and also near the rear - I fixed a whole bunch of rattle on mine by undoing everything, lubing up all the hanger and adjusting it all, then re-hanging it.
As for the heatshield - theres one on the underside of where the gear shifter pokes through, and then the one under the boot floor.
I also found that the exhaust passes really close to the front subframe where the downpipe exits, and also near the rear - I fixed a whole bunch of rattle on mine by undoing everything, lubing up all the hanger and adjusting it all, then re-hanging it.
Right, fixed the wing mirror! new bolt and washer and utilized old spring and all done! Hopefully dipstick handle will remain intact for a little longer!
Brakes definately work, came to crest of a hill yesterday night and a bloomin jeep cherokee was overtaking a farm quad bike pretty much on the crest of hill, plenty of pumping the peddle meant i just about slowed enought to let the muppet get back on his side of the road!
Will further investigate exhaust noise using your advice when next get the car up on jack/ramps.
Had a go t cutting again and it ill definately come up ed but its goin to b a bit of a mission. Seen a bloke on "detailing world" forums with a red mr2 that had oxidised so bad it was pretty much white show how he turned it back the an incredible red so theres hope for mine because mine isnt half as bad! Im goin to try contacting him to give me a step by step method and at stuff he used.
Any advice on rust proofing undersided components/subframe/ diff etc - the diff is horrendously rusty.
Its ben raining here mostly so pictures to follow when its clear.
Anyone with an mx5 live in or around North Devon?
Cheers
Brakes definately work, came to crest of a hill yesterday night and a bloomin jeep cherokee was overtaking a farm quad bike pretty much on the crest of hill, plenty of pumping the peddle meant i just about slowed enought to let the muppet get back on his side of the road!
Will further investigate exhaust noise using your advice when next get the car up on jack/ramps.
Had a go t cutting again and it ill definately come up ed but its goin to b a bit of a mission. Seen a bloke on "detailing world" forums with a red mr2 that had oxidised so bad it was pretty much white show how he turned it back the an incredible red so theres hope for mine because mine isnt half as bad! Im goin to try contacting him to give me a step by step method and at stuff he used.
Any advice on rust proofing undersided components/subframe/ diff etc - the diff is horrendously rusty.
Its ben raining here mostly so pictures to follow when its clear.
Anyone with an mx5 live in or around North Devon?
Cheers
Mark-2 said:
My dipstick handle has also broken 
My brother was looking in my engine bay yesterday (He's 12..)
'Jon, where is your dipstick?'
'Have a look in the engine bay..'
'Is it that yellow stick there? I thought they usually have a little handle on top?'
'They usually do, if its not broken'

Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




