Refurbing Wheels

[Jonny671]

Has anyone done this themselves before?

I don't see it being too difficult.. My brother is into all that kind of stuff, but was wondering if I need to primer the wheel first?

I am changing the colour of them, gunmetal/black

[Jag-D]

I think you need acid etch primer before spraying IIRC

[JFReturns]

Hi Jonny,

Are you the chap that purchased my old wheels? If so, hope they are okay

I have refurbed my wheels before, and my advice is do it. I've made a detailed thread on another forum, I'll see if I can copy and paste as I'm not sure about linking rules...

[Jonny671]

JFReturns said:

Hi Jonny,

Are you the chap that purchased my old wheels? If so, hope they are okay

I have refurbed my wheels before, and my advice is do it. I've made a detailed thread on another forum, I'll see if I can copy and paste as I'm not sure about linking rules...

I am! Thanks very much, they were fine.. Customer loved them, for some reason he had some random alloys on there and 1 of them was the same as yours so he now has a spare too

Linking is fine on here

[JFReturns]

DIY refurb guide (pasted from my post in another forum, so ignore bits that don't make sense!)

Heres a list of what you need:

- Three large cans of primer
- Three large cans of colour
- Three large cans of lacquer
- Wet and dry sandpaper, range of low to high grits
- Filler e.g. Davids Isopon P38
- Lots of masking tape
- Newspaper
- White spirit

Heres what you do:

1. Clean wheels
- Use your wheel cleaner, then maybe some fairy liquid and warm water
- Wash with plenty of water then dry

2. Mask up tyres
- Obviously this only applies if you are leaving tyres on
- Let some air out
- Apply plenty of masking tape behind the wheel lip
- Mask the rest of the tyre with newspaper




3. Sand down wheels
- Start with a course grit, and sand down the entire wheel
- If the wheel paint is flaking or really corroded, you will need to go down to the metal
- Use less course grit sandpaper until the finish is smooth


4. Fill imperfections, dry and then resand
- Follow filler instructions to get the right consistency - you don't want the filler to set too soon!
- Leave to dry for A LONG time - 48 hours is best
- Sand down using progressively lower course grit, until S-M-O-O-T-H


TIP! This is the most important stage - the more time you spend here, the better the finish. Paint WILL NOT cover up any imperfections!



TIP! Sanding in between coats helps prevent the orange peel effect!

5. Prime wheels
- Clean wheel using white spirit, rinse with water and dry thoroughly
- Leave primer in warm water for half an hour before using, to loosen
- Shake VERY can very well - Apply several thin coats (at least three)
- Do not spray too close
- Leave to dry, and sand in between each coat using a very fine grit



5. Paint wheels
- Leave primer to dry for 48 hours
- Sand lightly, then rinse with water and dry thoroughly
- Again, leave cans in warm water for a while and shake thoroughly
- Aim for lots of very light coats, allow each layer to dry and sand down using a very light grit sandpaper

TIP! When spraying, aim away from the wheel then sweep across. This clears any drips and gives a more misty, fine spray with fewer blobs.



6. Lacquer wheels
- Leave paint to dry for 48 hours
- Same as the other cans, leave in warm water, aim for several thin coats

7. Clean and admire
- Apply some sealant, get the wheels rebalanced and enjoy your hard work















Any questions / corrections let me know!

J

EDIT: I only did the front of the alloys, as I don't think the back of the spokes etc. are painted. However, there is nothing stopping you from doing this, and will probably make the refurb last longer. I think Brian did the whole wheel and it looked ace.

EDIT: By sealant I mean wheel sealant - Poorboys do a good one. However, I used my Nattys paste wax and it did a good job!

EDIT: I put my GTi on steelies whilst working on the refurb, but didn't really drive it!

[JFReturns]

Oh and before any one mentions it, I know it's not an MX5! Same thing applies though

[Jonny671]

Ah thats brilliant! Thanks very much.

I'm not sure I can leave mine for 48 hours as I haven't spare wheels for it, so will be putting the space saver wheel on for each wheel I take off.

I found another guide that says 3 hours per wheel, but leaving them over a heater to dry them quicker?

[Wheelrepairit]

Few quick pointers.

Try and use high build primer, with a etch agent added.

Chemical metel is better as a filler that P38, thats a bit too soft for my liking.

[Jonny671]

Wheelrepairit said:

Few quick pointers.

Try and use high build primer, with a etch agent added.

Chemical metel is better as a filler that P38, thats a bit too soft for my liking.

Thanks very much, Pete.

I'll have a look at the condition of my wheels, I don't think theres much on them but may give that chemical metal a go

[Matt UK]

Jonny671 said:

I'm not sure I can leave mine for 48 hours as I haven't spare wheels for it, so will be putting the space saver wheel on for each wheel I take off.

If you want more time to work on your wheels, I've got a set of 15s I could lend you that I took off my MX5 a couple of months ago (not got round to getting them on ebay yet..).

PM me if you like

Edited by Matt UK on Friday 30th July 21:36

[JFReturns]

hi Jonny,

I advise taking up Matt's offer - you cannot rush this job else it will show in the finish. Patience is the key..... it took me ten days altogether as you need proper drying time.

Cheers,

J

[inman999]

As has already been mentioned it takes a LONG time to do it properly.

Prepare for sore fingers and cramp.

It is a satisfying job to do though. I'd remove the tyres and valves also then when your done the finishing touches of new tyres and valves will set the whole job off nicely.