Front Crank Seal Failure.
Author
Discussion

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Sunday 5th September 2010
quotequote all
As some of you may have read I have developed an oil leak,

After my car was turbo'd the front Crank seal gave out causing a big leak, I replaced the seal and all has been well for a couple of months using the car as my daily driver.

Friday I sprung a leak again, I have got the car up on stands and pressure washed all the oil off, It looks like the oil is coming from the front seal again.

What could be causing the repeat problem, I have the use of a second car but as of 20th Sept the Mrs changes jobs and will be using the other car, so I need my 5 to be reliable.

Please help.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

262 months

Sunday 5th September 2010
quotequote all
How good is your fitting technique and did you identify the reason for the original failure?

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Monday 6th September 2010
quotequote all
From what I remember, the area around the outer edge where the seal sits was slightly damaged, not major just a couple of chips. Looked like someone in the past had used a screw driver to flick the seal out.

When it went as it was turboed the seal looked a bit butchered. I had the wood ruff key go at the start of the year. But there was only minimal wear and the loctite fix carried out by a mechanic, I was never very impressed with the work he had done.



BliarOut

72,863 posts

262 months

Monday 6th September 2010
quotequote all
How smooth is the woodruff key slot? Can you tape over it as you install the seal? I use an oilstone to dress any damage before fitting a new seal. Any roughness is going to kill it.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Monday 6th September 2010
quotequote all
Thanks,

I will strip it down and report back.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
I have had to replace the front crank seal and in the process moved the crank so have had to re do the timing.

Now I thought I did it the same as I did when I changed the Cam Belt but it appears I havent as it wont start.

I lined the left as looking at engine pulley with the E on the Pulley with the E on the dust cover, I have then lined the I on the right pulley up with the I on the dust cover.

The crank pulley was lined up at 10degrees TDC.

Now I thought this was how I did it before but obviously it isnt.

Can you explain in an idiots guide how to get it right, starting to get fed up of carrying out repairs to the old girl.

Cheers

James

MX-5 Lazza

7,954 posts

242 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
Crank pulley should be at TDC, not 10 BTDC wink
I wouldn't think that would prevent it starting though so maybe you have left something like the MAF/AFM unplugged?

snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
Cheers guys,

Got it started, although I think I am a tooth out as its a bit lumpy - I wil
l watch the youtube clip.

but........


New Seal, fitted nicely, greased the inside to get a good fit.


Bloody oil coming out of the same location still and a decent amount.

What could be causing this, loosing faith now

snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
Hmm, Sure its coming from behind the seal, not the sump?

In those little corners maybe?



Does the seal look like that? Pushed all the way in?

My only thoughts are something must be damaged somewhere, or the crank has a nick in it that is wrecking the seal as soon as it runs?



Edited by snotrag on Tuesday 7th September 20:25

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
Tough one,

Its generally oily in the corners but there the a trickle running straight down from behind the bottom gear.

I also have some damage to the area shown in red, it chipped away but doesn't seem to be infringing on the way that the seal sits. But I cannot see what else I can be.

What I am looking at if this is my issue?


snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Tuesday 7th September 2010
quotequote all
Try work out if it's leaking past the outside of the seal, or the inside (I.e. The moving bit or not).

If your lucky and it's leaking from the outside of the seal then there's a multitude of gasket potions, sealants chemical metals etc etc that you might be able to use to seal the leak.

It's a tough one though for sure.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
Cheers,

I have ordered a genuine seal, as aposed to a blue print part, I think the leak is from the outside of the seal and falls inlink the the damage to the housing.

Would rubber gasket sealant be sufficient or would I be better getting a liquid metal that has no flex in it once cured?


snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
I'd put that one to the main forum if I were you or speak to the guys in your motorfactor. But I'd guess that one of the more pliable, 'liquid gasket' type products would be the right thing to use.

Same stuff that you would use on the sump and the cam cover?

Loctite and carplan do all sorts of that type of stuff.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
I have got some Wynnes gasket sealent that I used on the Mother in Laws Trooper,

When I got it mator factors said it was the best stuff to use, so i think I will give that a go.

Am I going for neat and tidy or pleanty of it to get a good thick covering?

snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
Read the packet! I think the important thing is to give the area a really good clean, get a really nice even bead splurged in there and fit your new seal, let it set. As long as its not touching the back of the pulley any overspill isnt going to do any harm is it?
Give it LOTS of time to go off too,

Jobs like this are all about preparation, cleanliness and time from my experience, dont rush it and then start the car straight away and be surprised if it all falls straight out.

snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
Read the packet! I think the important thing is to give the area a really good clean, get a really nice even bead splurged in there and fit your new seal, let it set. As long as its not touching the back of the pulley any overspill isnt going to do any harm is it?
Give it LOTS of time to go off too,

Jobs like this are all about preparation, cleanliness and time from my experience, dont rush it and then start the car straight away and be surprised if it all falls straight out.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
Many thanks,

So if its touching behind the new crank seal, this isnt a problem as long as its not in contact with the gear that the timing belt sits on. (I know I am been simple but I want to get it right this time).

snotrag

15,497 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
All I'm saying is - its fine if theres a little bit splodging out, but you dont want it to be rubbing on anything as that could pull on it or break some of it off. But its quite stretchy and pliable i think - certainly the stuff I've used on the cam cover before is really good at sealing up awkard leaks.

jay140285

Original Poster:

626 posts

207 months

Wednesday 8th September 2010
quotequote all
Ok mate,

I will report back on how I get on, will be tomorrow night when I carry out the repairs as long as the seal comes from MX5 Parts in the post!

Thanks for your help.