Discussion
A friend of mine has given me an Oris Date Pointer which is not working. He did this because he know's I'm interested in watches, and it is apparently beyond economic repair by a watchmaker. I have been for a while wishing to dabble in watch repair, so this presents me with an ideal opportunity.
The problem is the crown is no longer attached to the stem, so I am unable to set the time or date. The watch runs when given a shake.
So the 2 challenges I face are:
1. Where to get the replacement bits?
2. How to replace the broken bits myself?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I would love to be able to return the watch to my friend in working condition.
The problem is the crown is no longer attached to the stem, so I am unable to set the time or date. The watch runs when given a shake.
So the 2 challenges I face are:
1. Where to get the replacement bits?
2. How to replace the broken bits myself?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I would love to be able to return the watch to my friend in working condition.
Unless the caliber is amazingly different from what it looks like (and I really don't think it is), then all you will need is:
A winding stem for an ETA 2836. 2824 will probably fit, too.
Something to open the back with.
A small screwdriver/fine pointy thing to lower the setting lever enough (light touch!)
Probably a pair of tweezers to grip what remains of the stem during removal.
A pair of wire cutters and a grinding stone of some sort to shorten your new stem.
Looks like you may need a new crown, too, if the stem is broken off inside your old one.
It's a five/ten min job if you have the tools/parts & know what you're doing, but there's no guarantee that the watch is in good working order, of course. I often find that once the crown has broken off, the watch is quickly filled with crud, requiring a full service, but there's no way to tell without examining the watch.
A winding stem for an ETA 2836. 2824 will probably fit, too.
Something to open the back with.
A small screwdriver/fine pointy thing to lower the setting lever enough (light touch!)
Probably a pair of tweezers to grip what remains of the stem during removal.
A pair of wire cutters and a grinding stone of some sort to shorten your new stem.
Looks like you may need a new crown, too, if the stem is broken off inside your old one.
It's a five/ten min job if you have the tools/parts & know what you're doing, but there's no guarantee that the watch is in good working order, of course. I often find that once the crown has broken off, the watch is quickly filled with crud, requiring a full service, but there's no way to tell without examining the watch.
Edited by glazbagun on Monday 18th March 21:02
Just to the left of the stem is a slot in the plate - press in there with a small screwdriver.
Use a screwdriver rather than a pin - a pin can push the release button in too far, breaking the spring.
IIRC, you should pull the crown out to the second position (time set) before removing the stem, but with no crown, this will be tricky!
It doesn't break anything if you don't pull the stem to pos2, but the "castle gear" can fall out of place - dial-off job to put it back.
You might be able to nudge the stem to pos2 by levering against the flange just visible outside the plates.
Use a screwdriver rather than a pin - a pin can push the release button in too far, breaking the spring.
IIRC, you should pull the crown out to the second position (time set) before removing the stem, but with no crown, this will be tricky!
It doesn't break anything if you don't pull the stem to pos2, but the "castle gear" can fall out of place - dial-off job to put it back.
You might be able to nudge the stem to pos2 by levering against the flange just visible outside the plates.
Edited by clockworks on Saturday 23 March 18:15
clockworks said:
Just to the left of the stem is a slot in the plate - press in there with a small screwdriver.
Use a screwdriver rather than a pin - a pin can push the release button in too far, breaking the spring.
IIRC, you should pull the crown out to the second position (time set) before removing the stem, but with no crown, this will be tricky!
It doesn't break anything if you don't pull the stem to pos2, but the "castle gear" can fall out of place - dial-off job to put it back.
You might be able to nudge the stem to pos2 by levering against the flange just visible outside the plates.
I managed to push the stem to the 2nd position from inside. I've then managed to remove the stem. So far so good, just need to find a replacement stem and crown. At least now I know what the part looks like and dimensions.Use a screwdriver rather than a pin - a pin can push the release button in too far, breaking the spring.
IIRC, you should pull the crown out to the second position (time set) before removing the stem, but with no crown, this will be tricky!
It doesn't break anything if you don't pull the stem to pos2, but the "castle gear" can fall out of place - dial-off job to put it back.
You might be able to nudge the stem to pos2 by levering against the flange just visible outside the plates.
Edited by clockworks on Saturday 23 March 18:15
You could do with a pin vice to hold it in. And end cutters.
Pin vice is handy for screwing the new crown on too. Cut the stem in stages, slowly so you don't go too short (you can always remove more stem, tricky to add it) loctite is handy too (cousins)
stick the back back on in the mean time, stops fluff n stuff getting in.
Pin vice is handy for screwing the new crown on too. Cut the stem in stages, slowly so you don't go too short (you can always remove more stem, tricky to add it) loctite is handy too (cousins)
stick the back back on in the mean time, stops fluff n stuff getting in.
Well the parts arrived today and fitting them proved a lot easier than getting the old ones out. The watch is now fully working and I'm very satisfied with the results.
I would like to thank everyone for their help and advice, especially clockworks.
I did end up snipping the end of the stem in stages rather than using a dremel.
I would like to thank everyone for their help and advice, especially clockworks.
I did end up snipping the end of the stem in stages rather than using a dremel.
Dude,
The easiest way to shorten the stem is to grind/sand down the stem with wet and dry hold the stem in a
pin vice if you have one and use a vernier caliper to check amount of material removed etc.
I found the best tool for snipping stems down was the snipper part of Swiss army knife pliers WORKS a treat.
You were lucky with the Eta movement if the stem release is pressed a little to much you'd have a pig of a time resetting the keyless work been there and done that many a time, as clockworks mentioned ALWAYS remove eta stems in the hand winding position(auto mech versions and quartz chronos) basic quartz etas can have the stem removed in the neutral position.
Bry
The easiest way to shorten the stem is to grind/sand down the stem with wet and dry hold the stem in a
pin vice if you have one and use a vernier caliper to check amount of material removed etc.
I found the best tool for snipping stems down was the snipper part of Swiss army knife pliers WORKS a treat.
You were lucky with the Eta movement if the stem release is pressed a little to much you'd have a pig of a time resetting the keyless work been there and done that many a time, as clockworks mentioned ALWAYS remove eta stems in the hand winding position(auto mech versions and quartz chronos) basic quartz etas can have the stem removed in the neutral position.
Bry
Edited by bry1975 on Monday 8th April 21:37
Edited by bry1975 on Monday 8th April 21:39
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