Help me choose a nice watch, £2500 max
Help me choose a nice watch, £2500 max
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L555BAT

Original Poster:

1,427 posts

241 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
quotequote all
I've decided to buy myself a nice watch sometime in the near future.

I replaced my long time (10 years) Timex diver about a year ago, and have since built up a small collection of sub £200 quartz watches. The replacement daily wearer was a Seiko SNDC99P1 chronograph. My "best" watch is a Zeppelin 7280-2 chronograph. The other pieces are a Mondaine Evo 38, Junkers 6644-2, and a Citizen Nighthawk.

Current collection:


Seeking out the first few of those introduced me to the world of watches, and watch forums. I think I caught "the bug".

I'm now looking for something "proper", mechanical, that should last me pretty much a lifetime.
  • Budget: up to £2500
  • Size: probably max 42mm diameter and max 15mm thick - wrist is 17.5cm/6.9 inches. My Nighthawk is 42mm x 13mm and wears big, but it's a bulky design.
  • Not attention drawing
  • Good lume preferred
  • Has a date display
  • Best if looks good on either a bracelet or a strap
  • Timeless design, that I'll still like in 20 years. I'm 27.
  • Not too expensive to service (I gather chronograph movements would cost more)
One big question I have is whether I'd wear it to work or not. First thing is comfort - I work at a computer most of the time, and find a metal bracelet uncomfortable on the desk. So if I'm wearing my Seiko I'll take it off and leave it on the desk when I'm in the vicinity. I wouldn't want to do that with anything more valuable than a smartphone. So if I bought a metal bracelet watch, I'd buy a leather strap too. The second thing is not being too blingy and inciting jealousy around the office (in the north, professional people, salaries probably £25k to £60k), so either it needs to be reasonably discreet, or I decide that I'm not going to wear it at work (or not every day). If the former, it needs to fit under a shirt cuff. If the latter, it needs to be able to be kept wound by a combination of evening use and hand winding as needed.

After browsing what feels like every watch brand on the planet - websites, forums, and shops (haven't tried anything on yet, but will do), I've drawn up some shortlists:
divers: CW Trident (C60/C61), Omega Seamaster 300, Tudor Pelagos
pilots: Damasko DA 36/37, Stowa Flieger, Time Factors Speedbird
pilot chronographs: Damasko DC 56/57, Fortis Pilot Professional Chrono, Archimede Pilot Chronograph
sport chronographs: Sinn 144 St Sa, Omega Speedmaster Pro (hesalite)

These are broadly the types of watch I'm interested in. At the top of each Pinterest board I have some notes of those that didn't make it due to being too big, etc.

Any thoughts on the shortlisted ones, the wear at work question, other recommendations ?

ellroy

7,858 posts

256 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
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Does it need to be new?

Second hand at that kind of price point opens up all sorts of options.

These for example:

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/s17952.htm

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/omega-speedmast...

If it does I'd be inclined to wait and try and stretch for a Tudor of some description, for example:

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/titanium_tudor_...



Edited by ellroy on Saturday 6th September 20:47

mikeh501

800 posts

212 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
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Pelagos. You get a rubber strap in the box as well, but doubt you will use it. The finishing is great and the bracelet one of the best (if not the best).

Mines not left the wrist since I got it; displacing all kinds of other stuff...

ecain63

10,653 posts

206 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
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Pelagos seconded. Mine is the weapon of choice currently. Prefer it as s daily to any other watch i can think of currently. I have a second pelagos coming in soon (unwanted order but great price) if you are looking for a discount off rrp.

L555BAT

Original Poster:

1,427 posts

241 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
quotequote all
I'll definitely be going to try on a Pelagos then when they launch here on the 19th.

ellroy said:
Does it need to be new?

Second hand at that kind of price point opens up all sorts of options.

These for example:

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/s17952.htm

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/omega-speedmast...

If it does I'd be inclined to wait and try and stretch for a Tudor of some description, for example:

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/titanium_tudor_...



Edited by ellroy on Saturday 6th September 20:47
Yes, needs to be new.

The Speedmaster Pro hesalite can be had new from Iconic Watches for £2240, or the Pelagos for £2400, and I'm not too keen on the looks of any of the Racing Speedmasters. So at these prices, for something I intend to keep forever or a very long time, I see little reason to go used.

ecain63 said:
Pelagos seconded. Mine is the weapon of choice currently. Prefer it as s daily to any other watch i can think of currently. I have a second pelagos coming in soon (unwanted order but great price) if you are looking for a discount off rrp.
How much are you asking for it? My near future was probably going to be in a few months, but I'm not constrained.

ecain63

10,653 posts

206 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
quotequote all
Im unsure until it arrives. I reckon £2100 - £2200 all being well. Was going to be £2034 but since the recent Tudor price hike was announced I think my original quotation might get overruled. I'll let those who are interested know by less PH-unfriendly methods

Rich_AR

1,998 posts

235 months

Sunday 7th September 2014
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I have 3 of those watches on your list.

Damasko DA36 black. It's a 40mm case, but does wear small I feel. A simple tool watch which is very hard wearing, the anti-reflective coating is very good. I flip between the leather strap and nato's often. Very much under the radar type of watch.



The Tudor Pelagos. A lovely watch and easy to read. I wear it on the rubber strap. Lume is amazing and people notice it. Handsome watch and one of my favorites. I've yet to wear it on the bracelet, but I hear it's very good as well. The brushed metal reduces the bling factor.



Fortis Flieger Chronograph. This was my first decent watch I ever bought. It's chunky watch due to the 7750 movement. My only gripe with Fortis is the case metal is soft and dings easily. Other than that, I still like wearing it. Here on a grey nato today.




FYI - I have 7.5" inch wrists


Edited by Rich_AR on Sunday 7th September 04:47


Edited by Rich_AR on Sunday 7th September 04:53

SVS

3,824 posts

302 months

Sunday 7th September 2014
quotequote all
My vote would be for a Damasko, but then I'm a fanboy owner. I love the exceptional build quality and all the innovative engineering and materials. Damasko is one of those you have to feel and see in the metal to appreciate. It would fit the bill for being reasonably discreet.

I know lots of people like the Pelagos, but why? confused I had a look at one in-store and it appeared a bit boring in the metal. The titanium casework was very good, right up there with Tutima's titanium pieces. Though Tudor price the Pelagos even higher than some superb titanium watches from Tutima, which seems wrong to me confused

Edited by SVS on Sunday 7th September 09:36

Lorneg

228 posts

210 months

Sunday 7th September 2014
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£1275

L555BAT

Original Poster:

1,427 posts

241 months

Sunday 7th September 2014
quotequote all
On the Damaskos, I've now ruled out the black cases, and the white faces.

The Fortis Flieger Chronograph now joins the long list of rejects that are too thick (15mm). Also doesn't seem to be anywhere in the UK I could try one on. The Sinn 144 with its 14.5mm and bulky design might too. The The Archimede and Damasko chronos are doing well to fit in 13.6 and 13.8mm respectively.

I've seen the Offshore Professional, it didn't appeal to me.

Remaining:
Divers - Pelagos, Seamaster 300 black/blue, CW C60/C61 black
Pilots - Speedbird, Damasko DA36, Stowa Flieger
Pilot Chronos - Archimede, Damasko DC56
Sport Chronos - Speedmaster Pro, Sinn 144

The only ones I can conveniently try on (North East) are the Omegas and the Pelagos (soon). CW is in London, Timefactors in Sheffield, Damasko and Sinn in London (Page and Cooper). Nowhere for Archimede or Stowa. I can't see myself buying anything without having tried it and most of the others for comparison, so that may well be the death of those two.

ecain63

10,653 posts

206 months

Sunday 7th September 2014
quotequote all
FYI. The Pelagos is not ideal for wearing when trying to put a baby to bed. The lume is so bright that tonight i had to take the watch off as it kept waking him up when putting him down.

Key consumer advice there! These are the things Tudor don't think about.

marcosgt

11,506 posts

207 months

Monday 8th September 2014
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If you can live without the date, the Speedmaster at £2200 looks a steal!

My first thought was 'Speedmaster' and I was thinking you'd need to look for a 'cherished' one.

The 'will still look good in 20 years time' factor is one that's been proved. MOST people think the Speedmaster looks as great today as it did 50 years (and the rest!) ago.

It and you will look good in 50 years time with a Speedmaster Pro on your wrist. smile

I'm a big fan of my Sinn 203 and would really like a 144 (I'll get one sometime smile ) and they look good on a stylish, successful chap in their 40s/early 50s (Well, I like to delude myself biggrin ).

M.

Edited by marcosgt on Monday 8th September 11:03

CardShark

4,263 posts

210 months

Monday 8th September 2014
quotequote all
I'd be looking for something that sits in contrast to what you have yet still retains a degree of versatility, and seeing as you would rather try before you buy then have a look at the Longines Heritage and Master collections.

No lume and many of them have complications other than just telling the time and date, however you'll get something that'll stand the test of time style wise and some models are available on bracelets and straps. The model below comes well within budget, can be bought with a bracelet or leather (buy the former and then the strap separately, it's cheaper) and also comes in black with Roman numerals, though it's no longer listed on Longines' site.

http://www.longines.com/watches/the-longines-maste...

Or how about something from Junghans?



The Meister Telemeter also comes in black with a bracelet.

Both the Longines and the Junghans have ETA based movements so servicing will be very straightforward even many years from now.

With regards to budget, keep in mind that discounts (10% minimum) should be available from pretty much everywhere, certainly bricks and mortar shops.



Edited by CardShark on Monday 8th September 14:36

marcosgt

11,506 posts

207 months

Monday 8th September 2014
quotequote all
CardShark said:
I'd be looking for something that sits in contrast to what you have yet still retains a degree of versatility, and seeing as you would rather try before you buy then have a look at the Longines Heritage and Master collections.

No lume and many of them have complications other than just telling the time and date, however you'll get something that'll stand the test of time style wise and some models are available on bracelets and straps. The model below comes well within budget, can be bought with a bracelet or leather (buy the former and then the strap separately, it's cheaper) and also comes in black with Roman numerals, though it's no longer listed on Longines' site.

http://www.longines.com/watches/the-longines-maste...

Or how about something from Junghans?



The Meister Telemeter also comes in black with a bracelet.

Both the Longines and the Junghans have ETA based movements so servicing will be very straightforward even many years from now.

With regards to budget, keep in mind that discounts (10% minimum) should be available from pretty much everywhere, certainly bricks and mortar shops.
That's a good thought - A Longines Legend Diver would be worth considering too (and WAY under budget).

M.

SVS

3,824 posts

302 months

Monday 8th September 2014
quotequote all
Hi L555BAT,

How sure are you about spending as much as £2,500 on the watch? Unless you're wealthy and already mortgage-free, it's a helluva lot to sink into a watch. For less than half that amount, you could still obtain something lovely.

Others may disagree, of course, but I can't image spending £2,500 on a watch at 27, not when there are so many terrific watches that cost a lot less.

Good luck, whatever you decide!

L555BAT

Original Poster:

1,427 posts

241 months

Monday 8th September 2014
quotequote all
SVS said:
Hi L555BAT,

How sure are you about spending as much as £2,500 on the watch? Unless you're wealthy and already mortgage-free, it's a helluva lot to sink into a watch. For less than half that amount, you could still obtain something lovely.

Others may disagree, of course, but I can't image spending £2,500 on a watch at 27, not when there are so many terrific watches that cost a lot less.

Good luck, whatever you decide!
It's a lot of money, and I'm neither wealthy or mortgage-free. It would be about 2.5 months' savings for me.

I'm also keeping in mind servicing costs over the years (especially for more expensive models), and how comfortable I'd be having such a valuable thing on my wrist all the time.

It's partly at that level to bring in the options I'm considering. Basically I want to find out what I really want, and either get it now or later. I'd like to sample what's available, and decide being content that I tried everything I liked. Value does matter to me, so the more expensive options would have to justify the cost.

alfaman

6,416 posts

265 months

Tuesday 9th September 2014
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you mentioned the Timefactors precista speedbird - they are great looking and have a good movement... on my 'must have one' list.

I have a PRS82 - well pleased with it - especially as less than 400GBP.

some of the timefactors watches are well worth a look IMHO.

Beachbum

2,610 posts

262 months

Tuesday 9th September 2014
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Lorneg said:


£1275
If you ever do that with tritium hands and markers, I would be interested

CRB14

1,494 posts

183 months

Tuesday 9th September 2014
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Tudor Grantour Chrono has got my eye at this price range. The Speedmaster was top of the list till I saw the Tudor.

yeti

10,697 posts

306 months

Tuesday 9th September 2014
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Beachbum said:
If you ever do that with tritium hands and markers, I would be interested
Can you even buy tritium paint nowadays?