Feckin' Casio Watches
Discussion
Sorry about the rant,but I currently have 2 Casio watches in question, a G-shock and a radio controlled watch. Both need batteries replaced, and my local watch shop wont touch them, saying I'll have to take them to a G-shock retailer, or send them back to casio - goodbye £40
Bloody annoying - I'm tempted to buy a cheap casio off ebay - does my bloody head in!!!!
Bloody annoying - I'm tempted to buy a cheap casio off ebay - does my bloody head in!!!!
They're Casios, not Pateks! I'd try somewhere else or just DIY, should be easy enough. A lot of G case backs are attached using 4 small screws and somewhere like tiktox.com or Casio themselves should be able to provide new gaskets/seals if need be.
Edited by CardShark on Tuesday 3rd February 02:04
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t local watch shop'.Both should be easy enough DIY and, as long as you're careful, should be just as well sealed when you finish as when you start.
If you can post the module numbers (usually 4 digits in a rectangle on the back, also shown on the front of the instruction books) I'll look up the correct cells for you and post some hints on not screwing them up
If you can post the module numbers (usually 4 digits in a rectangle on the back, also shown on the front of the instruction books) I'll look up the correct cells for you and post some hints on not screwing them up
Resetting is easy.
If you look at the back of the module you'll see a small pad on the circuit board which has "AC" marked beside it (usually stamped on the metal backplate of the movement). To reset you short-ciruit that AC pad to the metal backplate briefly. tweezers are easiest for this but you can do it with a small screwdriver / paperclip / anything metallic and small enough.
Then put the back on and set everything up as explained in the user manual.
"Resealing" is also no big mystery.
When you change a watch battery, the only seal you disturb is the back seal. The effectiveness of the glass seal and any pusher / crown seals won't be changed in the slightest.
Now, the back seal is almost universally made by a rubber gasket. Usually it's a simple O ring, although in most Casios you find a weird shaped moulded ring rather than a circle. {i}Provided you're careful[/i], the seal is still "rubbery", and it hasn't been damaged or stretched out of shape (which generally comes down to how careful you are) there's no reason for it to leak.
Watches are not "pressurised" to seal them, there are no secret Masonic rituals or incantations involved, and it really isn't rocket science. Pressure testing is used for three reasons:
First, to confirm that the back seal has been refitted correctly (you can't see it once the back's on)
Second, to show up any potential seal failures / very minor leaks hopefully before they become a problem
Third (and most importantly in a commercial environment) to confirm that any undisturbed seals like crowns or pushers weren't already leaking.
Note that last one - a pressure test is as much to protect the battery fitter as it is to protect the watch. If someone comes to me with a £2k watch and asks me to change a battery, I'd be a fool to accept their word that it isn't already leaking. So, after I change the battery, I know that the back is sealed correctly because I sealed it. But, for all I know without a pressure test, the crown could be leaking like a sieve.
So, if you know what the correct cell is, you can recognise the letters "A" and "C", and you can handle a funny shaped rubber ring gently enough to avoid stretching or breaking it, then you can successfully change them yourself.
Which will save you about £19 per watch
If you look at the back of the module you'll see a small pad on the circuit board which has "AC" marked beside it (usually stamped on the metal backplate of the movement). To reset you short-ciruit that AC pad to the metal backplate briefly. tweezers are easiest for this but you can do it with a small screwdriver / paperclip / anything metallic and small enough.
Then put the back on and set everything up as explained in the user manual.
"Resealing" is also no big mystery.
When you change a watch battery, the only seal you disturb is the back seal. The effectiveness of the glass seal and any pusher / crown seals won't be changed in the slightest.
Now, the back seal is almost universally made by a rubber gasket. Usually it's a simple O ring, although in most Casios you find a weird shaped moulded ring rather than a circle. {i}Provided you're careful[/i], the seal is still "rubbery", and it hasn't been damaged or stretched out of shape (which generally comes down to how careful you are) there's no reason for it to leak.
Watches are not "pressurised" to seal them, there are no secret Masonic rituals or incantations involved, and it really isn't rocket science. Pressure testing is used for three reasons:
First, to confirm that the back seal has been refitted correctly (you can't see it once the back's on)
Second, to show up any potential seal failures / very minor leaks hopefully before they become a problem
Third (and most importantly in a commercial environment) to confirm that any undisturbed seals like crowns or pushers weren't already leaking.
Note that last one - a pressure test is as much to protect the battery fitter as it is to protect the watch. If someone comes to me with a £2k watch and asks me to change a battery, I'd be a fool to accept their word that it isn't already leaking. So, after I change the battery, I know that the back is sealed correctly because I sealed it. But, for all I know without a pressure test, the crown could be leaking like a sieve.
So, if you know what the correct cell is, you can recognise the letters "A" and "C", and you can handle a funny shaped rubber ring gently enough to avoid stretching or breaking it, then you can successfully change them yourself.
Which will save you about £19 per watch
Variomatic said:
Resetting is easy.
If you look at the back of the module you'll see a small pad on the circuit board which has "AC" marked beside it (usually stamped on the metal backplate of the movement). To reset you short-ciruit that AC pad to the metal backplate briefly. tweezers are easiest for this but you can do it with a small screwdriver / paperclip / anything metallic and small enough.
Then put the back on and set everything up as explained in the user manual.
"Resealing" is also no big mystery.
When you change a watch battery, the only seal you disturb is the back seal. The effectiveness of the glass seal and any pusher / crown seals won't be changed in the slightest.
Now, the back seal is almost universally made by a rubber gasket. Usually it's a simple O ring, although in most Casios you find a weird shaped moulded ring rather than a circle. {i}Provided you're careful[/i], the seal is still "rubbery", and it hasn't been damaged or stretched out of shape (which generally comes down to how careful you are) there's no reason for it to leak.
Watches are not "pressurised" to seal them, there are no secret Masonic rituals or incantations involved, and it really isn't rocket science. Pressure testing is used for three reasons:
First, to confirm that the back seal has been refitted correctly (you can't see it once the back's on)
Second, to show up any potential seal failures / very minor leaks hopefully before they become a problem
Third (and most importantly in a commercial environment) to confirm that any undisturbed seals like crowns or pushers weren't already leaking.
Note that last one - a pressure test is as much to protect the battery fitter as it is to protect the watch. If someone comes to me with a £2k watch and asks me to change a battery, I'd be a fool to accept their word that it isn't already leaking. So, after I change the battery, I know that the back is sealed correctly because I sealed it. But, for all I know without a pressure test, the crown could be leaking like a sieve.
So, if you know what the correct cell is, you can recognise the letters "A" and "C", and you can handle a funny shaped rubber ring gently enough to avoid stretching or breaking it, then you can successfully change them yourself.
Which will save you about £19 per watch
Spot on could try a bit of gasket oil too...or bit of WD on an old sponge and push gasket on it both sides that's what I was taught at Colindale many years agoIf you look at the back of the module you'll see a small pad on the circuit board which has "AC" marked beside it (usually stamped on the metal backplate of the movement). To reset you short-ciruit that AC pad to the metal backplate briefly. tweezers are easiest for this but you can do it with a small screwdriver / paperclip / anything metallic and small enough.
Then put the back on and set everything up as explained in the user manual.
"Resealing" is also no big mystery.
When you change a watch battery, the only seal you disturb is the back seal. The effectiveness of the glass seal and any pusher / crown seals won't be changed in the slightest.
Now, the back seal is almost universally made by a rubber gasket. Usually it's a simple O ring, although in most Casios you find a weird shaped moulded ring rather than a circle. {i}Provided you're careful[/i], the seal is still "rubbery", and it hasn't been damaged or stretched out of shape (which generally comes down to how careful you are) there's no reason for it to leak.
Watches are not "pressurised" to seal them, there are no secret Masonic rituals or incantations involved, and it really isn't rocket science. Pressure testing is used for three reasons:
First, to confirm that the back seal has been refitted correctly (you can't see it once the back's on)
Second, to show up any potential seal failures / very minor leaks hopefully before they become a problem
Third (and most importantly in a commercial environment) to confirm that any undisturbed seals like crowns or pushers weren't already leaking.
Note that last one - a pressure test is as much to protect the battery fitter as it is to protect the watch. If someone comes to me with a £2k watch and asks me to change a battery, I'd be a fool to accept their word that it isn't already leaking. So, after I change the battery, I know that the back is sealed correctly because I sealed it. But, for all I know without a pressure test, the crown could be leaking like a sieve.
So, if you know what the correct cell is, you can recognise the letters "A" and "C", and you can handle a funny shaped rubber ring gently enough to avoid stretching or breaking it, then you can successfully change them yourself.
Which will save you about £19 per watch
celticpilgrim said:
Sorry about the rant,but I currently have 2 Casio watches in question, a G-shock and a radio controlled watch. Both need batteries replaced, and my local watch shop wont touch them, saying I'll have to take them to a G-shock retailer, or send them back to casio - goodbye £40
Bloody annoying - I'm tempted to buy a cheap casio off ebay - does my bloody head in!!!!
I don't think you'll make a Rolex or Patek customer. Instead of saying goodby to 40 you'd be saying goodbye to between 500 and 2000for a service Bloody annoying - I'm tempted to buy a cheap casio off ebay - does my bloody head in!!!!
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