Discussion
So I had time to play with the Timegrapher today.
I put my recently modded Seiko SKX009 on it:
I had changed the hands on it but this was prior to getting the timegrapher so I don't know if what I did had affected the movement at all.
Here's the readout:
It shows that the beat error was out and it was running about 27 seconds slow a day. So off came the back again:
The arrows point to the adjustment levers.Two is for adjusting the beat error and one is for regulating the speed. The beat error should be adjusted first. It's very fiddly and the slightest movement will alter the mechanism considerably. A wooden toothpick is good for this. Just have to be careful and not touch the balance wheel. After lots of messing about and continually checking it on the timegrapher, I got it down to this:
The seconds per day does move up and down by a couple of seconds but I'm very happy.
I also put my two year old Submariner on the Timegrapher:
Losing four seconds a day. Out of spec so have contacted AD with a view to getting it adjusted.
I put my recently modded Seiko SKX009 on it:
I had changed the hands on it but this was prior to getting the timegrapher so I don't know if what I did had affected the movement at all.
Here's the readout:
It shows that the beat error was out and it was running about 27 seconds slow a day. So off came the back again:
The arrows point to the adjustment levers.Two is for adjusting the beat error and one is for regulating the speed. The beat error should be adjusted first. It's very fiddly and the slightest movement will alter the mechanism considerably. A wooden toothpick is good for this. Just have to be careful and not touch the balance wheel. After lots of messing about and continually checking it on the timegrapher, I got it down to this:
The seconds per day does move up and down by a couple of seconds but I'm very happy.
I also put my two year old Submariner on the Timegrapher:
Losing four seconds a day. Out of spec so have contacted AD with a view to getting it adjusted.
Amplitude a little low on the Seiko but well adjusted. Not sure if you've done it but you want to regulate the movement in a way that gives you the best averages in real world use. For most people "dial up" and "crown down" are the two most useful positions to do this.
I'd take the Rolex in if you aren't happy with it, but again, does it actually lose or gain excessively during normal use?
You can pull the protective film off your screen in case you aren't aware and that scruffy corner annoys you.
I'd take the Rolex in if you aren't happy with it, but again, does it actually lose or gain excessively during normal use?
You can pull the protective film off your screen in case you aren't aware and that scruffy corner annoys you.
The Subs rate seems to be constant so hopefully just needs regulating (wont be doing that myself!) I suspect the amplitude on the Seiko was low due to it winding down. After wearing it for a while, the amplitude went up to 241. Is that still low and should I worry about it. Since last night the watch has not lost or gained a second.
PJ S said:
Always check and adjust a fully wound movement, but the amplitude should only be of concern when down around the 130-150 mark, which is a general sign that a service is due.
Thanks for that. The movement is fully automatic in that you can't manually wind it up. Is there a recommended technique for fully winding such a movement? ^
These basic Seiko 5 movements don’t have the ability to be wound manually, unlike the vast majority of automatics.
For that, hold it by the straps such that the watch sits over your first two fingers, then make a small motion to get the rotor spinning.
Do that for a minute or less — that should be enough if you've not been particularly active that day.
These basic Seiko 5 movements don’t have the ability to be wound manually, unlike the vast majority of automatics.
For that, hold it by the straps such that the watch sits over your first two fingers, then make a small motion to get the rotor spinning.
Do that for a minute or less — that should be enough if you've not been particularly active that day.
PJ S said:
^
These basic Seiko 5 movements don’t have the ability to be wound manually, unlike the vast majority of automatics.
For that, hold it by the straps such that the watch sits over your first two fingers, then make a small motion to get the rotor spinning.
Do that for a minute or less — that should be enough if you've not been particularly active that day.
That's very difficult to do without laughing though!. These basic Seiko 5 movements don’t have the ability to be wound manually, unlike the vast majority of automatics.
For that, hold it by the straps such that the watch sits over your first two fingers, then make a small motion to get the rotor spinning.
Do that for a minute or less — that should be enough if you've not been particularly active that day.
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