One ‘L’ of a dilemma...

[Dibble]

First, the TL;DR version:

I’ve got a “biggish” birthday in a few months (less than 6) and fancy treating myself to a nice watch, up to a maximum of about £5,000, so I’m looking for some suggestions. Ideally I’d like something new, mainly because I like that “unwrapping”/“no one else has had it” feeling.

I’d prefer something more robust, rather than too dressy, so I don’t have to be too worried about when/where I wear it. Steel, ideally and not a chronograph. Bracelet, rather than strap, but maybe with the option to change to dress it up (or down, onto a NATO).







Now the “unabridged” version...

As above, I’ve got a biggish birthday coming up in a few months, but I don’t have to have the watch on my wrist on the exact date, as long as I know it’s coming. My budget would be a maximum of about £5,000, which I know isn’t that much for something super special, but I reckon it’ll get me something I do like.

I’ve a bit of an emotional attachment to Omega, having inherited my Dad’s 1956 Seamaster when he died in 1994. I’d even got to wear it on a couple of occasions before then. Financially, it’s worth very little, a few hundred quid at most, but it’s obviously of huge sentimental value and would be irreplaceable whether it was worth £10 or £100,000. That said, there’s nothing really in the current range that I really like. I think the 2254 was the last model that I would have considered, but they stopped being made about 2008, I think.

I do like some of the older Omega models, like the Flightmaster and some of the yachting/regatta models, but I don’t know enough about any watches to buy second hand. Yes, I could go to a reputable dealer, but I’d end up paying a premium (the counter argument being that premium would/should buy peace of mind). The Speedmasters really don’t do it for me, except maybe the TinTin version, or a Snoopy, but again, a decent one of the latter is out of budget.

The nearest new offering from Omega would be a Planet Ocean, which almost (for me) has the classic look I’m after. Aesthetically, it’s just about there, in my opinion (I’d like it even more if it had the sword hands from a 2254 - could I “specify” this from new as an option?) apart from the ceramic bezel.

I’m not a fan of most Rolex. One I’d consider is the 1680, for an arcane reason to do with the number, but a quick Google suggests anything half decent would be way over budget. As above, buying second hand fills me with dread. Five grand is a big chunk of cash to me. If I did get any watch second hand, being a bit OCD, I’d like a full set of watch, box, papers, whichever brand it was. I do like the older Pepsi GMT, but I’m not a fan of Rolex overall. I know they make very good watches, but to me, they have a bit of an image problem. I know, I’m stereotyping all Rolex owners by a very, very small percentage of them, but that’s just my own opinion,

Current “new” stuff I really like includes the Tudor GMT with the Pepsi bezel. I know it’s way under my maximum budget, but I much prefer the look of the bezel to any of the more current ceramic bezels elsewhere. I’m not a fan of the Black Bay 58, purely because of the gilt hands and markers. I do also really like the Pelagos in black.

At this point, I should probably have mentioned I’d like something steel. Gold (or gold coloured) just doesn’t do it for me, at all.

Back to Tudor, I really like the 1926 in steel with opaline dial and blued hands, as well as the “Glamour” model (apart from the hideous name!). The former doesn’t have lume, though, and in reality is too dressy for me. The Glamour does have lume, but a separate seconds dial. It’s probably worth mentioning here that I’m not a big fan of chronographs, although some of the vintage Heuer ones are lovely. Again, we’re back to the risks of lack of knowledge and buying second hand.

I don’t want anything too jazzy or “quirky”. Of course, I’m going to contradict myself straight away and say I really like the Le Jour Skipper chronograph, which I’ve seen recently...

http://www.gnomonwatches.com/watches/le-jour-watch...

But that’s on a leather strap... yes, I know, I should’ve mentioned way before now I want something on a bracelet. Bear with me, it’s a bit “stream of consciousness”, I know!

A watch I’ve really hankered after for a while is the Sinn 857 UTC, on the bracelet. I really like the understated looks, it’d look fine in the office at work or in my usual attire of jeans and t shirt when not at work. It’s way under budget and I quite fancy actually travelling to Germany to buy it. There are quite a few in the Sinn range I like and I. A similar vein, I’d really like a Seiko Spork (I missed a NOS one recently on TZ UK, because I dithered).

Possibly slightly over budget would be something from Dornblüth (or a similar maker, but I’ve no idea who else there might be). I really like the thought of having something made just for me. I know the lead time for a watch from Dornblüth is around 12 months, but that wouldn’t bother me at all and I think the wait/anticipation would be part of the fun. Being able to have something “bespoke” for “off the shelf” (or Rolex) money really appeals. I like the thought of it being something actually “hand made” by a bloke in his shed (or cellar). I know there’s probably more assembly than manufacture, but I’d be dealing with the guy actually putting it together.

However, more recently, I’ve been having second thoughts about a Dornblüth. Part of me thinks it would be much too nice to wear every day. I’m also a bit of a “lume we” and something beautiful like a Dornblüth just wouldn’t look right with lumed hands, I don’t think. I don’t have any descendants to leave it to, so it could end up being an expensive paperweight. I’m pretty sure I’ve talked myself out of this option.

Then there’s something like a Max Bill chronoscope, which again, contradicts my “no chronograph” specification. However, I’m a right clumsy fker, so I’d be permanently worried about wearing it day to day and smashing it to pieces. What else is there that’s similar, but maybe slightly more robust?

Style wise, I do like a pilot/diver and I’ve got a few of these already. Nothing high end - Seiko, Helm, Dan Henry, Maranez... I really like stuff like the Fortis B42 or the Eterna Kon Tiki, but are they special enough?

Again, in the “is it special enough” category is something like the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla... way under budget, but not at all common.

https://farer.com/products/hecla

Grand Seiko don’t really do it for me. It’s almost reverse snobbery, the opposite of Rolex, but this time, “It’s just a Seiko”... the recent snowflake dial is beautiful, but... it’s a Seiko. I know, the watches themselves are special and well made, it’s just me not “getting it”. I’m also not a fan of a power reserve indicator.

So, over to you lot for any and all suggestions (and ideally links/pictures). Broad specs are no more than £5,000, steel, on a bracelet, “diver” or pilot, non-chronograph, something I can wear every day and with some lume.

[Badda]

Despite what you've said, go and handle a new Rolex Sub in a dealers. If you then think Omega/Tudor watches are comparable in quality I'd be utterly amazed.

[Dibble]

Badda said:

Despite what you've said, go and handle a new Rolex Sub in a dealers. If you then think Omega/Tudor watches are comparable in quality I'd be utterly amazed.

I have, and I just don’t “get it”. It’s stupid of me, because I know how well made they are, but I can’t get over the fact they’re “mass produced”, even if that’s done by really skilled craftsmen.

The only equivalent I can think of is motorbikes. The BMW R1200 GS is a fantastic machine, consistently comes out top in group tests and is utterly brilliant. It just leaves me cold. Whenever I think of GS owners, I immediately think of a bearded IAM/RoSPA member, decked out top to toe in full BMW gear and think “Tosser”.

I guess it’s a bit like the “scene tax” some people are willing to pay for a VW van over any other make. My GF is in the process of buying a van for her work. We’ve looked at loads and she really wanted to like the VW Caddy, but ended up completely underwhelmed by it and fell in love with the (much better equipped for the price) Ford Connect.

[Badda]

Dibble said:

Badda said:

Despite what you've said, go and handle a new Rolex Sub in a dealers. If you then think Omega/Tudor watches are comparable in quality I'd be utterly amazed.

I have, and I just don’t “get it”. It’s stupid of me, because I know how well made they are, but I can’t get over the fact they’re “mass produced”, even if that’s done by really skilled craftsmen.

The only equivalent I can think of is motorbikes. The BMW R1200 GS is a fantastic machine, consistently comes out top in group tests and is utterly brilliant. It just leaves me cold. Whenever I think of GS owners, I immediately think of a bearded IAM/RoSPA member, decked out top to toe in full BMW gear and think “Tosser”.

Interesting. I also have a GS and think it's amazing (no BMW kit though!).

I think there's an element of reverse snobbery going on with you which is tainting your judgement. A lot of your thought appears to be on image and other's perception of you...

[vixen1700]

These are a bit special and not something you're likely to see too often.

Hentschel:

https://hentschel-hamburg.de/en/

[anonymous-user]

Have you thought about IWC?

They have a few options and they are very nicely finished watches. (Pilot/Ingenieur/Aquatimer)

If you were prepared to go used you could probably get a Dornblueth and a Ingenieur/Aquatimer for the budget or very close.

[Badda]

If you like the Max Bill how about a Nomos?

Something like https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/nomos-gl... ? Beautiful.

[Dibble]

Badda said:

Dibble said:

Badda said:

Despite what you've said, go and handle a new Rolex Sub in a dealers. If you then think Omega/Tudor watches are comparable in quality I'd be utterly amazed.

I have, and I just don’t “get it”. It’s stupid of me, because I know how well made they are, but I can’t get over the fact they’re “mass produced”, even if that’s done by really skilled craftsmen.

The only equivalent I can think of is motorbikes. The BMW R1200 GS is a fantastic machine, consistently comes out top in group tests and is utterly brilliant. It just leaves me cold. Whenever I think of GS owners, I immediately think of a bearded IAM/RoSPA member, decked out top to toe in full BMW gear and think “Tosser”.

Interesting. I also have a GS and think it's amazing (no BMW kit though!).

I think there's an element of reverse snobbery going on with you which is tainting your judgement. A lot of your thought appears to be on image and other's perception of you...

You’re absolutely right! I’m not particularly bothered about other people’s perception of me so much, it’s more how I perceive a few Rolex owners, which puts me off the brand.

I test rode a GS. It was great, but for me, personally, it lacked... “something”. Maybe it was too good? I like things to have a bit of soul and I found the BMW too clinical and efficient. It almost felt like “not a motorbike”, if that makes sense?

If I did consider a new(er) Rolex, for me, it’d have to be a “proper” one, like a Submariner or a Sea Dweller. What they were before they became more of a fashion statement. I’m going to have another look at the website and see what’s what. Then of course, there’s finding somewhere with the stainless steel sports models in stock, but that’s done to death elsewhere in here!

Thanks for your input, I appreciate it.

[Dibble]

vixen1700 said:

These are a bit special and not something you're likely to see too often.

Hentschel:

https://hentschel-hamburg.de/en/

They are very nice and like Dornblüth, are a bit “special”. Maybe too special... my GF is actually from Hamburg, so I’ll ask her if she knows of them.

Definitely one to consider if I do decide to go down the “Dornblüth route”.

[Dibble]

desolate said:

Have you thought about IWC?

They have a few options and they are very nicely finished watches. (Pilot/Ingenieur/Aquatimer)

If you were prepared to go used you could probably get a Dornblueth and a Ingenieur/Aquatimer for the budget or very close.

I have and should have included them in the list of possibles. I’ve never tried one on, so maybe that should be a consideration, so I’ll hunt for a dealer.

[Dibble]

Badda said:

If you like the Max Bill how about a Nomos?

Something like https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/nomos-gl... ? Beautiful.

Nomos are another brand I know of but have never seen in the flesh. I do like them, as you suggest, a good alternative to a Max Bill. Another one for the list of “find a dealer for...”

[anonymous-user]

Dibble said:

I have and should have included them in the list of possibles. I’ve never tried one on, so maybe that should be a consideration, so I’ll hunt for a dealer.

Panerai Radiomir?

Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 5th January 12:56

[Barchettaman]

Massively under budget, but still fairly special, the Longines HydroConquest?

https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/longines...

Ticks the boxes and leaves 4k in your pocket.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

[vixen1700]

This would leave you with £3.5k change:



Such a good looking watch.

[Dicky Knee]

I have a Dornbluth 99.1 which I love. I have pictures of it being made and get a Christmas card from the man who made it every year. If you are in London I'd be happy to meet so you can have a look and try it on.

Have you looked at Bremont?

https://watches-of-switzerland.co.uk/Bremont-Endur...

Or

https://watches-of-switzerland.co.uk/Bremont-Super...

They don't have a bracelet but I think Bremont could fix you up with one.

I also like the Breitling Superocean Heritage.

https://watches-of-switzerland.co.uk/Breitling-Sup...

[T6 vanman]

Early congratulations on the forthcoming milestone,

For loads less expense have you looked at the Rado watch range
My local AD has a cross between these two sat in the window at £2k and it's killing me as I don't "need" it but it's like "there"
Rado Watch HyperChrome Captain Cook XXL

Rado Watch Centrix XL Sport


If more money can be liberated have you thought about a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe


Of course you could go with the new latest trending watch brand on PH with a RJ watch …. these being within budget

Edited by T6 vanman on Saturday 5th January 14:31

Edited by T6 vanman on Saturday 5th January 14:32

[Gameface]

Love this at £5k

[Dibble]

desolate said:

Panerai Radiomir?

Panerai are another brand that just don’t do it for me at all. I know a little of the history, but they’re not for me.

[Dibble]

Barchettaman said:

Massively under budget, but still fairly special, the Longines HydroConquest?

https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/longines...

Ticks the boxes and leaves 4k in your pocket.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

Again, another consideration... that particular model leaves me a bit “meh”, but I’ve seen a similar/earlier model in the flesh, which I did like. But I’m not sure I like it as much as the Sinn 857 UTC (I’m going to end up with the Sinn, I can see it now!).

[Dibble]

vixen1700 said:

This would leave you with £3.5k change:



Such a good looking watch.

Yep, that’s a definite contender. I like the “super compressors style, as per the Farer link in my original post and I’ve got (at the very low end of the scale!) a Dan Henry 1973.

The Farer model I like has a blue face, which I much prefer on that watch to the black face option. The Longines really does tick a lot of boxes, but... there’s always a but! The one thing I don’t like is the font for the “Automatic”. It seems really picky, but every time I looked at it, it’d spoil it a bit for me - it’s the same with some of the Magrette watches - there’s a font on the face that ruins them for me.

I know that’s being really picky, but it’s a “big” purchase for me, so I’d want it to be right. Again, another one I’d need to see in the flesh to see whether it actually was that much of a deal.