Boat Polishing
Author
Discussion

LFB531

Original Poster:

1,273 posts

187 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
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I've just retrieved my boat back from its Summer base on the Isle of Wight and put it into my dry store for the Winter.



I've never ant-fouled it as its not in the sea for more than a few weeks at a time and jet wash in between those times. It now needs a good valet and I'll use YB10 as it's given me good results before.

Any thoughts about waxing it afterwards though? Just quality car polish or is something more exotic needed for the GRP. Maybe the excuse I've been waiting for to treat myself to a machine polisher! smile

SlimRick

2,277 posts

194 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
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I used car products, fine cutting and a decent wax...when I say "I", I mean my pregnant wife. And you definitely need a machine polisher!




psi310398

10,993 posts

232 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
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Can't advise on what compound/polish to apply but suggest you use a DA polisher as fibreglass and other non-metal synthetics don't like too much heat which is easy to do with a simple rotary mop.

Ask me how I know!

Peter

SeeFive

8,353 posts

262 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
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psi310398 said:
Can't advise on what compound/polish to apply but suggest you use a DA polisher as fibreglass and other non-metal synthetics don't like too much heat which is easy to do with a simple rotary mop.

Ask me how I know!

Peter
I guess you burnt the gel coat by leaving it stationary for too long? Maybe got some grit in the mop? yikes One thing is that a machine will make the job faster, but also at times of trouble will do damage faster too.

A DA is safer for sure, but slower - much slower to a result. The question is, how much of your life do you want to spend holding it against the boat compared to using a rotary with the proper technique - perhaps learned from some videos and practiced beneath the waterline?

Polishes? You will get answers for just about every option. For a white hull like yours, I would be tempted with a marine product containing PTFE for stain resistance and longevity. But like everything, the final finish will depend on what you do before the wax to get it ready for polish. Can't see in the pic the level of oxidation you have to get sorted before wax.

Bottom line. Get some music on, and enjoy the process.

LFB531

Original Poster:

1,273 posts

187 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
quotequote all
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!

Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!

........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!

rossb

634 posts

250 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2017
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LFB531 said:
Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline
i was recommended Chine Shine for precisely this and just bought some online - i dry sail my boat and i guy passing my boat suggested it and told me i needed to buy the stuff. not used it yet - but reviews seem good

dangerousB

1,701 posts

219 months

Thursday 5th October 2017
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LFB531 said:
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
As has already been mentioned - cutting compound followed by a polish/wax will transform the look of your hull and a powered orbital buffer is an absolute must - you'll be there for the rest of your life without one!!!

If you've got any mould spots, staining or yellowing, get some oxalic acid crystals, mix them with water, apply liberally, leave for half an hour and wash off . . . you won't believe the difference thumbup

grumpy52

6,050 posts

195 months

Thursday 5th October 2017
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Rotary machine polisher ?
Just keep it moving !
If using cutting compound keep it damp and moving .
If its a variable speed model keep the speed down until you get confident .
Be very careful of corners , edges , coach lines , decals and paint joint lines .
It is very satisfying when you get it right.

ecsrobin

18,641 posts

194 months

Thursday 5th October 2017
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You mean you guys don’t polish by hand????

2 of us hand polished all 98ft of this:



I think I did a good job for 2 days work.


dirty doug

485 posts

224 months

Thursday 5th October 2017
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^ i thought that was a very boring picture until I worked it out!

Excellent work smile

Diderot

9,591 posts

221 months

Friday 6th October 2017
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dirty doug said:
^ i thought that was a very boring picture until I worked it out!

Excellent work smile
Took me a while too. smile

Simpo Two

92,658 posts

294 months

Friday 6th October 2017
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'I was walking across that yard over there and hit my head on an invisible boat...'

Remarkable!

maser_spyder

6,356 posts

211 months

Monday 30th October 2017
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LFB531 said:
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!

Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!

........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!
Try Y10 on the yellowing (although somebody will be along in a minute to tell you to make your own from toilet cleaner). Brush on, wait, wash off. Gets the yellow off with no polishing at all.

Polish will get the chalky white stuff of the surface and leave it shiny.

A decent rotary polisher running on almost its slowest setting, and some practice.

Ayahuasca

27,580 posts

308 months

Friday 3rd November 2017
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A mirror wax polish finish on a boat slows it down. There needs to be a bit of a rough surface for the water to stick to, then water-water friction is less than water-wax.