Recommissioning an outboard motor
Discussion
Following a stroke, an old friend of mine has had his sea angling boat laid up for about 4 years. He's recovered quite a bit and would like to take his boat out again and I've now got more time to help him.
Before it was laid up the engine had just been serviced , but hadn't been run following that service and has been stood outdoors but sheeted up on the transom of his boat.
The engine hasn't seized at all and he's going to have it looked at by a professional, but I wondered what unforseen woes might be in store. The engine is a Yamaha 75hp two stroke and is around 16years old. My freind has owned it from new and prior to his illness it had been fastidiously maintained.
Before it was laid up the engine had just been serviced , but hadn't been run following that service and has been stood outdoors but sheeted up on the transom of his boat.
The engine hasn't seized at all and he's going to have it looked at by a professional, but I wondered what unforseen woes might be in store. The engine is a Yamaha 75hp two stroke and is around 16years old. My freind has owned it from new and prior to his illness it had been fastidiously maintained.
Whip the plugs out and fill the barrels with Seafoam Deep Creep and leave for 24 hours.
Meanwhile, pull the lower unit and replace the rubber water pump paddle (it will have perished, if kept dry for a prolonged period). Drain/replace all the hypoid in the lower unit.
With the new oil and water pump installed, either run the motor on muffs and a hose, or better, immerse the lower unit in a garbage can filled with water to ensure that the pump does not run in a dry state. (The new pump paddle will disintegrate if it's run dry). The Deep Creep will create a LOT of white smoke, once it fires up, but acts as a good upper cylinder lubricant, as well as freeing-up piston rings that may be gunked-up or seized in their grooves.
It wouldn't do any harm to dismantle the carb float bowl and empty any old gas/oil from it and give the carb a healthy blast of throttle plate cleaner, before reassembly.
Meanwhile, pull the lower unit and replace the rubber water pump paddle (it will have perished, if kept dry for a prolonged period). Drain/replace all the hypoid in the lower unit.
With the new oil and water pump installed, either run the motor on muffs and a hose, or better, immerse the lower unit in a garbage can filled with water to ensure that the pump does not run in a dry state. (The new pump paddle will disintegrate if it's run dry). The Deep Creep will create a LOT of white smoke, once it fires up, but acts as a good upper cylinder lubricant, as well as freeing-up piston rings that may be gunked-up or seized in their grooves.
It wouldn't do any harm to dismantle the carb float bowl and empty any old gas/oil from it and give the carb a healthy blast of throttle plate cleaner, before reassembly.
Biggest problems you might experience will be corrosion related. Unfortunately if it was just serviced for use then it will not have been loaded up with storage seal and heavy oil mix and the carbs drained off. The upside if it hadn't been used it shouldn't be full of saltwater.
Everything in the last post is spot on with just an addition that the carbs may be gummed from the old fuel evaporating and it is best to run a laid up engine on heavy oil mix for a couple of hours to let things resettle.
Also if it's oil injection make sure that it's bled through and working before opening it up.
Everything in the last post is spot on with just an addition that the carbs may be gummed from the old fuel evaporating and it is best to run a laid up engine on heavy oil mix for a couple of hours to let things resettle.
Also if it's oil injection make sure that it's bled through and working before opening it up.
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