Visit to Yamazaki
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F-Stop Junkie

Original Poster:

549 posts

229 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
After a trip this month, I thought I'd give a quick report on my trip to Yamazaki.

Yamazaki is known as the birthplace of Japanese whisky, and - in that fine whisky tradition - has taken the name of the distillery from the town where's it's based. From the Yamazaki rail station, there is a series of branded Suntory banners hanging from lamp posts to guide to to the level crossing in front of the impressive, immaculately presented distillery.


Yamazaki Station by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


A local station by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Every Single Lamp Post by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

After stopping at the guest reception, we were pointed towards the whisky library. I have no idea how old it is, but it looks brand new. In fact, that's something of a recurring theme...


Welcome by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Up In The Hills by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


The Whisky Library by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Inside there is a guided walk through Suntory exhibits, before you enter the whisky library itself. Walls lined with sample bottles of both Suntory and other whiskies, a large still in the middle you can walk through, the components of a barrel all beautifully laid out, and a washback split lengthways and turned into a tasting room. All of this in a square, bright room, the upper level of which is where the tour started.


Barrel exhibit by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


The Library Centrepiece by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


The Bar by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Armed with our English audio guides, the Japanese tour guide did an introduction, before we walked out to the yard behind which contains statues to the founder of the distillery. From there, it's over the road and up to the mash tuns on one side, and washbacks on the other.


The Founders by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

It's worth pointing out that as a guide, this is a long way from other tours I've been on! While the guide was rattling through his spiel at a rate of knots, he was actually going quicker than the audio guide. The facility was also much more of a polished, industrial setting than most distilleries that like to show off quite how traditional they are. Forget open mash tuns, or sipping the contents of the washbacks, this is a brisk tour of an industrial process.


The Mash Tun by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Immaculate Washbacks by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Onto the still house, and pairs of gleaming stills of many shapes set into a hardwood floor look stunning. This is not simply matching pairs producing one style of spirit, but malt and grain stills and whatever else Yamazaki may need. The gleaming spirit safes stripped of romance by having S1, S2, S3 stenciled under each receiving bowl. Oh God, he's already moving on again...


The Still House by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Suntory Stills by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


All The Stills by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Spirit Safe by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Warehouse! Another static display to illustrate racking and the angel's share, along with a glass fronted barrel (I wonder if that inspired the one at Bruichladdich, or vice versa?). The casks are racked with precision. Numbered sequentially, all the markings lined up. It's either done with extreme amounts of care, or there's a warehouse manager with OCD. The warehouse is probably the most traditional bit, with wooden racks and bare floors and, bloody hell, he's off again!


Resting Stocks by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

A brief stop in the grounds to take in the waterfall of the local water, as well as Yamazaki's own on-site shrine.


The Yamazaki Shrine by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Into the tasting room. Highballs for everyone (if you want it that way or not) with Suntory snacks and chocolate provided. There was then some explanation in Japanese of the different Suntory core expressions, before more highballs were offered, and the western group were then offered it neat if we wanted. An odd cultural distinction, as everyone else seemed quite happy with more highballs.


The Tasting Bar by FStopJunkie, on Flickr



(Side note, on a trip to Burger King, I noticed a Four Roses sign behind the counter. Looking at the menu, for an extra £3, you can have a Four Roses highball made with your choice of coke or ginger ale. A Whopper with a bourbon and coke. Ace.)

At a prescribed time, we were ushered from the tasting hall to the factory shop where a decent range of gifts was available. A lot of the bottlings were similar to UK RRP, but you could pick up a bottle of their single grain which isn't widely available. It's a nice place to pick up little things like coasters, pens, hip flasks and tasting cups and the like for pretty reasonable prices.


The Library Shelves by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


The Library Bottles by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


The Premier Tasting Area by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Once shopped out, my girlfriend and I headed back to the whisky library. At one end there is a square bar, and a menu spanning a lot of Suntory bottlings, as well as Jim Beam, the Macallan, Ballantines and others... The girlfriend had a Yamazaki 18, while I spied an open bottle of the Yamazaki 1984 and about £16 later had a glass to try.


The Chosen One by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


A Quiet Spot by FStopJunkie, on Flickr


Yamazaki 1984 by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Rich, heavy with dried fruit and dates, smooth, and a long finish. A worthy experience.


Bottle After Bottle, Shelf After Shelf by FStopJunkie, on Flickr

Overall it was well worth the trip. The tours may be a bit hurried for someone with no knowledge of the distilling process, and while it lacks the charm of a small Scottish distillery, it very much reflects the Japanese ethos. The tours are free, the tastings are decent, and the whisky library and shop are worth a visit even without the tour.


We Need Something For The Garden by FStopJunkie, on Flickr



Edited by F-Stop Junkie on Friday 7th February 15:49


Edited by F-Stop Junkie on Friday 7th February 15:50

ClassicMercs

1,703 posts

210 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Yes please - pics.

What you descibe does sound very much like the Japanese as we might stereotype them. The modern industrial process and really neat racking. Investment in their future. The total opposite of industrial scale distillation you describe could be something like Bunnahabhain - they do have a computer for labelling now - but it had broken yesterday and nobody knew how to fix it so cask filling was halted.

The tasting sounds a little gentler on the body than the Lagavulin warehouse tasting I did today, and in line with the Japanese trend - might be a very early night for me.

No matter how many distilleries you go around you can always see and learn something new. It might have to be an overseas one for us next time as we don't have many left in Scotland - anyone fancy dog sitting a mental Irish Setter ?

Also learned today that the Japanese don't tend to use card when in Scotland. Like the Russians that we have been following this week - apparently carry a full wallet and pay with £50 notes.

Wadeski

9,015 posts

242 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
The japanese in general prefer cash to credit.

Sounds like a great trip, i regret not visiting a distillery when i was out there.

tontoro

3,516 posts

272 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
I've done this tour too. I prefer the Yoichi distillery but it is a bit further off the beaten track

F-Stop Junkie

Original Poster:

549 posts

229 months

Monday 30th September 2013
quotequote all
ClassicMercs said:
Also learned today that the Japanese don't tend to use card when in Scotland. Like the Russians that we have been following this week - apparently carry a full wallet and pay with £50 notes.
That was something I was wary of! If you're in the sort of place likely to rack up big bills - either through pricey whiskies or larger groups - they tend to take cards. Certainly the distillery does, but then I wonder how many people would pay for a Hibiki 30 or Yamazaki 1984 with cash...

Fortunately the K6 bar in Kyoto also took cards, so we got stuck into their cask-strength Owners Cask Yamazaki something or other. The finer details may have been lost to the night there smile

krallicious

4,312 posts

234 months

Monday 30th September 2013
quotequote all
A glass of 1984 for 16 quid! At the Whisky Messe it's 70€! I really want to open my bottle but it is simply worth too much money now frown

F-Stop Junkie

Original Poster:

549 posts

229 months

Monday 30th September 2013
quotequote all
I think it was a 40ml measure too. Not too generous, but hardly skimpy...

When my numbers come up, I'm going to find a bottle of the 1984, and share it with my nearest and dearest. It's lovely stuff. Really wish I had a bottle now.

F-Stop Junkie

Original Poster:

549 posts

229 months

Friday 7th February 2014
quotequote all
Now with pictures! (And a few more still on my Flickr page....)

krallicious

4,312 posts

234 months

Friday 7th February 2014
quotequote all
Great pictures. Now just need to stop buying whisky and save up for a holiday to Japan hehe

F-Stop Junkie

Original Poster:

549 posts

229 months

Monday 10th February 2014
quotequote all
Cheers!

It was very interesting, and the tasting bar would be a nice place to have a wee tasting of a number of whiskies that are harder to find or pricey here. If I could go back, the Hibiki 30 would be on my list for a start!

What I didn't really get across were the other things, the art in the corridors made from old casks, the little presentation pieces, the walk through history of Suntory whisky. A *lot* of thought, care and effort has gone into making it accessible to many people. I'd be interested to see some of the American distilleries, but this was definitely different to the big four on Islay!

I can imagine Hakushu would be similar, but it'd be interesting to visit somewhere like Karuizawa or even Sake/Shochu breweries to see something more traditional.

Guess I'll just need to go back!

hoegaardenruls

1,224 posts

161 months

Monday 10th February 2014
quotequote all
Wow, I wouldn't mind 'borrowing' a few items from that library.

Totally agree with the comparison that it looks more industrial than the typical Scottish distillery, but a stunning place all the same. Judging by the photos, I assume they bring in their malted barley, and don't do it on-site?