Running in a Race Engine

[Soul Reaver]

Hi Guys

Now here is a topic that I just can't seem to pin down. There are so many opinions on this I thought I would ask what your opinions are.

So what is the correct method for running in a race engine? The best I have managed to find is this by mototune man but you may as do many other disagree. For me it makes total sense.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And this on a forum who also seem to recommend his method

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?239859-Runni...


Cheers

[tr7v8]

I've always followed that philosphy as well, drive it pretty hard. Most importantly no long periods of idling as it knackers cams.

[Soul Reaver]

Im thinking this then as I have new cams also.

On the Racetrack:

1. Warm the engine up completely at 2500 rpm because of new cams (about 10 to 15 mins)
2. Do one or two easy laps to warm up the tires.
3. Pit, turn off the engine & check for any leaks.
4. Take a normal 15 minute practice session and check the water temperature, oil temp, pressure etc
4. Change oil to synthetic after about 20 miles (20 to 25 Laps)

Rag the arse off it

[skeggysteve]

If it's a proper race engine built by a proper engine builder then it won't need running in. It will have been run in on a dyno so you can just fit it and treat it as you would normally - proper warm up etc.

[andy rob]

skeggysteve said:

If it's a proper race engine built by a proper engine builder then it won't need running in. It will have been run in on a dyno so you can just fit it and treat it as you would normally - proper warm up etc.

I agree steve

[Al Weyman]

If it has a full roller cam that will not need running in either. I have a new engine installed for this weekends Speedfest I will take it easy in the qually to let all the parts get to know each other and if OK after Qually will give it some in the race. The engine turned over wilh all pistons in at 22 lbs torque so not tight at all.

[FWDRacer]

Start it, raise rpm to 2K+, don't let it idle for first 10mins. Raise to normal running temp, switch off and heat sink. Check for oil water dribbles (A-series for me - usually something ). Start as normal, check oil pressure. Then drive it like you stole it.

[Graham]

I usually run mind up for the rollers.

Run it up to temp and bed in cam / rings

Stopit for a bit, check temps, oil and water.

Then do more runs gradually increasing rpm limit.

Always havd the motor under load.

Usually about ab hour of running on the rollers

Part running in but more a systems check. Doing it on the rollers allows you to watch everything snd control load

[thunderbelmont]

On the dyno it's usually a few minutes from first start up to get to temp, then off while you check for escaping fluids etc..
Then 10 mins at no more than 60% throttle.
One more check.
Full beans for dyno run.

All of my non-dyno'd engines have had the short run after first fire-up, then I tend to give them a steady run for the first 10-15mins before unleashing the beast.

One of my old 1300 engines did 16,000 (fairly fast!) road miles, 16 class wins from 18 starts in one series, and a two class wins from three starts in another, before it came out. The head was used on another engine, the bottom end was sold to a lad who put it in a Mk2 Cavalier - which did another 60,000 miles before he wrote it off!! When I ran it in, I used Kendal 30 mineral oil, then changed it after about 1hrs running for Mobil 1 5W30 plus Slick50, changed every four meetings.

[Soul Reaver]

thunderbelmont said:

On the dyno it's usually a few minutes from first start up to get to temp, then off while you check for escaping fluids etc..
Then 10 mins at no more than 60% throttle.
One more check.
Full beans for dyno run.

All of my non-dyno'd engines have had the short run after first fire-up, then I tend to give them a steady run for the first 10-15mins before unleashing the beast.

One of my old 1300 engines did 16,000 (fairly fast!) road miles, 16 class wins from 18 starts in one series, and a two class wins from three starts in another, before it came out. The head was used on another engine, the bottom end was sold to a lad who put it in a Mk2 Cavalier - which did another 60,000 miles before he wrote it off!! When I ran it in, I used Kendal 30 mineral oil, then changed it after about 1hrs running for Mobil 1 5W30 plus Slick50, changed every four meetings.

That sounds pretty much what Moto man is advocating. Thanks for cheers. Ill ensure that is followed then.

[Al Weyman]

Why do you feel you need to change the very expensive Mobile 1 oil every 4 meetings, thats like 2 hours running, if a road car it would probably do 10,000 miles inbetween services? Surely modern oils are designed to last a lot longer than 2 hours of hard running. And Slick 50 is snake oil surely.