Chassis Corrosion Protection

[356Speedster]

OK, as I'm right at the begining of the build, I'm thinking about protecting the chassis & getting the basics right... so corrosion protection post drilling is right up there.

Of course, there's the usual Waxoyl, but I was looking around at alternatives (to see if there's anything better) and remembered the Bilt Hamber page I bookmarked months ago. Has anyone got any experience of Dynax S50? Bilt Hamber Link

Looks to be very high performing, so I'm considering this instead. Alternatively, does anyone else have any thoughts / suggestions on alternatives?

Thanks, Mark.

(Edited to correct dodgy link)

Edited by 356Speedster on Wednesday 6th July 16:48

[spatz]

do not drive in the rain it is also good for your health......;)

[356Speedster]

spatz said:

do not drive in the rain it is also good for your health......;)

Not quite what I meant! Am interested in folks' internal chassis protection measures... any advance?

[200Plus Club]

altho mine isnt an ultima i liberally filled the inside of the chassis rails with Bild Hammer spray rust protection, which is about £17 a tin. comes with its own 4mm lance and nozzle, which sprays a fine mist. whenever you drill the chassis rails for fixings etc, rivnuts, you can get the lance inside the chassis for a couple of feet, start spraying and pull it slowly back towards you. quite an easy way to do it.

[BogBeast]

200Plus Club said:

altho mine isnt an ultima i liberally filled the inside of the chassis rails with Bild Hammer spray rust protection, which is about £17 a tin. comes with its own 4mm lance and nozzle, which sprays a fine mist. whenever you drill the chassis rails for fixings etc, rivnuts, you can get the lance inside the chassis for a couple of feet, start spraying and pull it slowly back towards you. quite an easy way to do it.

Did my Sport with Waxoyl, same method as above. After 8 years I still get the odd trickle out of a rivet on a hot day.

[Storer]

Your pop rivet holes are only 3.2mm so you may need to drill a special hole for the 4mm tube to go through.

My chassis is 11 years old and had been treated inside by the builder, I think. The corrosion was only evident where there had been chassis modifications over the years.

Paul

[356Speedster]

A vote each for Bilt Hamber and Waxoyl then! Impressive to hear the results from many years of protection.... probably me over thinking the topic, unnecessarily.

[Pb3]

Crafty used expanding foam I think more to cut down on noise being transmitted through the chassis though.

[356Speedster]

Pb3 said:

Crafty used expanding foam I think more to cut down on noise being transmitted through the chassis though.

LOL! I'll not go that route, I think I'll stick to products formulated to protect steel rather than to fill gaps in brick walls!

[Storer]

Pb3 said:

Crafty used expanding foam I think more to cut down on noise being transmitted through the chassis though.

If you use the foam without wax-oil or similar you will have an ideal environment for corrosion.
Also, if you even need to repair/modify the chassis at some point in the future you are creating a fire risk and weld contamination problem.

Paul

[Pb3]

Storer said:

If you use the foam without wax-oil or similar you will have an ideal environment for corrosion.
Also, if you even need to repair/modify the chassis at some point in the future you are creating a fire risk and weld contamination problem.

Paul

Look, I wasn't suggesting it as a good idea, just what someone had done in the past. Find the original post, I seem to remember it being a good read and quite long

[Storer]

Sorry Phil

Not trying to teach/preach. Just warning current builders who may think it is a good idea with no down side.

Paul

[356Speedster]

Storer said:

Sorry Phil

Not trying to teach/preach. Just warning current builders who may think it is a good idea with no down side.

Paul

Don't worry, I didn't think it was the best idea in the world and I'd hope no one else on here would go this route either!

[60mph]

Early mini sills were filled at factory with foam.

'nough said.

Frank

[ROWDYRENAULT]

It may have been my post that spoke of foam used in the cavities such as the floor directly behind the pedals. What I suggested is SEM brand Ultra rigid foam. this is a two part foam and is used by both Infiniti and Lexus to reduce NVH in thier cars when they are manufactured and also recommended when cars are repaired. I doubt that used in the application that there is much need for worry about rust or fire. Of course the two factories don't use a closed steel tube like our cars so use in that application would be somewhat different then how they use it. Lee

[200Plus Club]

i've just bought some aluminium protection spray which gets good reviews and applied it to all the exposed alloy on my car this morning.
ACF 50 is the stuff, which was about £13 for a large spray can
doesnt seem to leave much residue, easy wipe on wipe off.
will just stop any surface oxidisation etc in exposed areas

[BogBeast]

200Plus Club said:

i've just bought some aluminium protection spray which gets good reviews and applied it to all the exposed alloy on my car this morning.
ACF 50 is the stuff, which was about £13 for a large spray can
doesnt seem to leave much residue, easy wipe on wipe off.
will just stop any surface oxidisation etc in exposed areas

I found this stuff to be a bit snake oilish. Doesn't seem to stay around long on whatever I have coated.