Radiator fan switch
Discussion
Loom is wired for manual override switch, green & black/orange with earth wire for indicator light (on my loom anyway). Are you sure that the problem is the thermoswitch? I got some airlocks in the cooling system such that the temp in the engine would rise to over 100 C without thermoswitch kicking in (loss of pump efficiency, not getting enough hot water through rad.)
Got round this but still prefer to use the manual override in traffic as I think the factory thermoswitch set a bit high.
Got round this but still prefer to use the manual override in traffic as I think the factory thermoswitch set a bit high.
Back to my second question.
Is this wired with the factory loom and relay?
Check that the relay is wired correctly. The only reason I can think that the switch would fail is if it is taking the full load of the fans and burning out.
The relay is number 4 wired
Pin 30 Brown Permanent live
Pin 85 Black Earth
Pin 86 Orange/black Rad thermostatic switch
Orange/black Fan override switch
Pin 87 Orange Fan1
Orange Fan2
Steve
Is this wired with the factory loom and relay?
Check that the relay is wired correctly. The only reason I can think that the switch would fail is if it is taking the full load of the fans and burning out.
The relay is number 4 wired
Pin 30 Brown Permanent live
Pin 85 Black Earth
Pin 86 Orange/black Rad thermostatic switch
Orange/black Fan override switch
Pin 87 Orange Fan1
Orange Fan2
Steve
Thanks George,
Good point about the air lock, but i dont think so, i boiled some water and dropped it in stuck a meter across the terminals, burnt me hands still nothing,when i changed it the second time i left it running and the fans come on when they should have will go and check out these wires, thanks again
Keith
Good point about the air lock, but i dont think so, i boiled some water and dropped it in stuck a meter across the terminals, burnt me hands still nothing,when i changed it the second time i left it running and the fans come on when they should have will go and check out these wires, thanks again
Keith
Sheesh, there's a coincidence! I just came in here to ask about the thermostatic rad fan switch too!
I went out for a little spin yesterday and the engine got hot while I was fiddling round on the drive, the rad fans didn't switch on and the temp got to 105 on the gauge before I noticed :-(
Back a few months ago I had the opposite problem, the fans were coming on at random temps and not switching off. I assumed water had got somewhere it shouldn't as the problem seemed to go in the warmer/drier weather.
I do have a manual switch, so it's not a massive problem, but I'd prefer to have the auto option before heading off to Le Mans. Anyone know the spec of the switch so I can get one locally from my motor factors?
I went out for a little spin yesterday and the engine got hot while I was fiddling round on the drive, the rad fans didn't switch on and the temp got to 105 on the gauge before I noticed :-(
Back a few months ago I had the opposite problem, the fans were coming on at random temps and not switching off. I assumed water had got somewhere it shouldn't as the problem seemed to go in the warmer/drier weather.
I do have a manual switch, so it's not a massive problem, but I'd prefer to have the auto option before heading off to Le Mans. Anyone know the spec of the switch so I can get one locally from my motor factors?
I'm sure I spotted an ad on Pistonheads last year aimed at the TVR crowd for an adjustable thermoswitch. Remember thinking it might fit Ultima radiator - would need to check threads.
On my Cobra I had a Pacet adjustable switch which used a capilliary probe stuffed into a water hose union. Worked OK and surprisingly did not leak. Also check Demon Tweeks catalogue, they have an adjustable fan controller integral with an aluminium hose adapter.
On my Cobra I had a Pacet adjustable switch which used a capilliary probe stuffed into a water hose union. Worked OK and surprisingly did not leak. Also check Demon Tweeks catalogue, they have an adjustable fan controller integral with an aluminium hose adapter.
BobM said:
ditto said:
Bob the part number is 50110, it comes on at 92 goes off at 82
Any more info than that Keith? Are you talking Ultima part number here? I was hoping to either get a thread size or something like "its the same as a Ford Escort Mark X" so I can get one locally.
Your local motor factor will just open the book and go to that part number as a cross reference.
Almost all rad stats, ours included, are M22 thread.
You can also thumb through the book and find one that opens/closes at temperatures you prefer. It may not have the same wire termination but that is easily resolved.
Steve
Steve
If the radiator switch keeps going then there may be some mileage in putting a big diode (1N4005) across the coil of the relay(close to the relay). This will snub the inductive spike which is generated when the relay turns off. You can also put a capacitor across the contacts of the switch (just like the "condenser" on a points ignitions system)...something fast and small like 10-100nF should do... I'll need to phone a friend on that one.
It shouldn't be necessary to go to these lengths but if the contacts are quite fragile and the relay they are driving is quite big then...
It shouldn't be necessary to go to these lengths but if the contacts are quite fragile and the relay they are driving is quite big then...
Merlin motorsport also do the inline adjustable type also.
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/
under cooling.
e.
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/
under cooling.
e.
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