Running costs

[Incorrigible]

Hi everyone

I've been trying to get some figures on Ultima running costs, specifficaly how hard they are on consumables on track days. Obviously I'm only expecting 4 miles to the gallon or so (even my TVR only returned about 7 ) but wondered how long tyres, pads, any specific seuspension parts etc

It's only a thought ATM as I'm campaining a Caterham next year, but the no of days on track is likely to dimish in 2006 so higher running costs a definate option

Cheers

Ben

[Incorrigible]

I guess it's either

"If you have to ask you can't afford it"

or

"Actually we're all a bunch of nancy boys who like to park up in car parks and talk about dyno sheets"

Only joking etc etc

[Cabby]

Incorrigible said:

I guess it's either "If you have to ask you can't afford it" or "Actually we're all a bunch of nancy boys who like to park up in car parks and talk about dyno sheets" Only joking etc etc

I'll talk to you Ben! Only as an ex-owner though

General running costs are not a problem at all if you can wield a spanner yourself and check a dip stick. Regular oil changes and filters can be done easily. (The filter can be a bit awkward at first to get at) The tyres life span doing only road use will depend very much on useage. I was getting on towards 10k from my rears and expecting 15k+ on the fronts! Others were getting on towards their 3rd set doing similar mileage! Bargain on something in between and your'll be about right. The AP brake disks are very tough and should last a good while. Pads too seem to last longer than expected. Like all these things though, useage is the key.

Like all cars of this performance, track days will seriously eat into consumables life expectancy. Tyres are the biggest expence. £200-£250 each for the rears and about £150 each for the fronts! Where the big savings come are on the DIY serviceing. It really is an easy car to service yourself.

What else? They love Optimax! 10-12 mpg for road use! Half that for track. Some like a drop of oil too! But, for a car of that type I would say they are very cheap by way of running costs. Even factory work comes out at good value compared to other makes.

Paul

(And not a mention of dyno sheets and BHP numbers )

[Incorrigible]

That doesn't seem too bad, I'm fairly handy with a spanner (and fibreglass) so that side of it doesn't worry me.

How many track days do you reckon I'd get out of a set of tyres, bearing in mind I completely shreaded a set in 2 days on a TVR. or is it worth getting a set of hard slicks

Cheers

Ben

[jschwartz]

Like Paul said.
I've gotten 3 track days and about 10000 miles from rear tires. Expect about 15,000 from fronts.
Still have stock pads with lots left on em after 3 track days and 14000 miles
Gen3 engines like mine use some oil now and then
jeff s

[Incorrigible]

jschwartz said:

I've gotten 3 track days and about 10000 miles from rear tires. Expect about 15,000 from fronts.

Exactly what I was after thanks mate

about £500 a year for rear tyres Ultima definately on the options list

[methodwares]

jschwartz said:

Like Paul said. I've gotten 3 track days and about 10000 miles from rear tires. Expect about 15,000 from fronts. Still have stock pads with lots left on em after 3 track days and 14000 miles Gen3 engines like mine use some oil now and then jeff s

are the gen3 engine mount bosses in the same place as earlier chevy engines, do they just bolt up to the frame? also, what about the exhaust, how much was that to get done.

[jschwartz]

The motor mount holes in the block are in a different location, more towards the rear, compared to 1st gen.
TransDapt make adaptors to shift the holes to normal 1st gen location. Exhaust must be fabbed, which i did mostly myself. Street and Performance has headers that may work, and they do custom stuff as well.
jeff s

[steve_D]

methodwares said:

..... also, what about the exhaust, how much was that to get done.

Andycanam had his system modified by an exhaust specialist and was very pleased with the results.
I believe he was also quoted for a whole system.

If going that route you may want to consider doing it in mild steel and having it ceramic coated. Those of us with the coating are very pleased but could have saved ouselves the cost of a stainless system.
Steve