Quick release body mounts

[jschwartz]

One of the molded in 1/2" nuts to mount the rear bonnet has spun in the fiberglass. Since I need to repair this, is there any reason not to install (mould in) a straight bushing and use a push button type quick release pin or a clevis type pin? rather than bolt and nut as is standard? Just looking for ideas to make the rear bonnet easier to remove.
thanks
jeff s

[YIIHAA]

Don't want to hijack your thread, but I have a similar problem (1/2" captive nut no longer captive). I am thinking of repairing it, but am not sure how to go about it. Thinking about cutting back one side of the grp then laying up some new matting over the exisiting nut. Is that the right procedure, and how many layers should I be laying up?

[Allen-GTR]

I would do one of two things if re-glassing the captive nut: Either file grooves into the nut and give something for the resin/glass to grip to prevent it from spinning later OR tap a couple of very small screws in the outside of the nut for the same reason.

As far as the amount of 'glass goes, I would probably cut some up "kitty hair" style, fill the void, and then use a layer or two of cloth to cover and smooth it out...

My .02....

Allen

[YIIHAA]

The captive nut is spot welded to a a large washer (about 1.5" diameter), the washer has lots of holes in, so should get good purchase. Just not good enough for when the thing opens at speed.

How do I know what the captive nut looks like? Well I had another moment of stupidity as well

[mkoch1]

You may want to find out what type of resin the factory used, Polyester, Vinyl Esters, epoxy, etc. I have never mixed them but I have been told different kinds of resin don't adhere well to others. If you find out let me know, I was curious, but never asked.

Mark

[USCANAM]

YIIHAA said:

How do I know what the captive nut looks like? Well I had another moment of stupidity as well

Mine damage looked identical. Didn't have the heart to take a photo, but came up with the following solution. Now I can drive off happily with the latches open!!
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing6/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1178499.html


Jeff
See no reason why you can't use a 1/2" pin made out of a stainless steel bolt. Cut off the threads and put a taper on the end to help the pin guide itself. Drill a hole for the locking pin.
The West System epoxy available from a boat supply should adhere to anything as long as the surfaces are roughed up.
Use a silicon fill (available at the same shop) to thicken up the epoxy so it doesn't run.
It should be strong enough for the job. I used it to build the wing on my aerobatic plane, and it's good for over 10 g's.
Jack
Jack