I've been battered!
Discussion
Yep!
After getting a nice optima yellowtop a year ago (maybe a bit more - can't find the invoice - Damn!), and after sterling service starting the engine ocassionally, and caring for it using an optimate conditioner most of the time....
.....on monday I could not get enough juice to started at all.
Put it on charge for a bit, then noticed after 5 mins that the charger amperage needle had suddenly shot up way to the right - full amps!
Fast-start mode the same!
...so looks like it had died!
I am peeved!
Anyone else got a similar problem with these?
Just hope now, that Optima can find my purchase and deliver on their warranty!
We will see!
After getting a nice optima yellowtop a year ago (maybe a bit more - can't find the invoice - Damn!), and after sterling service starting the engine ocassionally, and caring for it using an optimate conditioner most of the time....
.....on monday I could not get enough juice to started at all.
Put it on charge for a bit, then noticed after 5 mins that the charger amperage needle had suddenly shot up way to the right - full amps!
Fast-start mode the same!
...so looks like it had died!
I am peeved!
Anyone else got a similar problem with these?Just hope now, that Optima can find my purchase and deliver on their warranty!
We will see!
ive gone through 2 off varley 40 batteries, i think mainly due to discharging due to high ancillary loading....due to low(ish) Ah.... now found some extra room and replaced with a bosch s5 battery that is rated less CCamps but over twice the capacity Ah as the varley40. Funny thing is it cranks the engine over with a noticable improvement over the 40...? and now if i leave the fan running i wont be dead in 2 minutes...
I have gone for a Red Top 60 when the old Red Top 40 struggled with my LS7.
The 60 spins the engine easily and should have no problems with all the electrical bits and bobs.
You will need a new battery holder though, and support for the top, as it is quite a bit heavier as well as pricey (£270).
Paul
The 60 spins the engine easily and should have no problems with all the electrical bits and bobs.
You will need a new battery holder though, and support for the top, as it is quite a bit heavier as well as pricey (£270).
Paul
spatz said:
I have no problem with the replacement, cranking hard and good capacity, the first died due my own mistake, no battery likes a complete discharge too 0.
If you keep the optima happy with a trickle charger, it can go 10 years.
I kept mine happy with a conditioner, it lasted 2 1/2 years :-(If you keep the optima happy with a trickle charger, it can go 10 years.
This mains interruption / full charge issue is a concern... SO if you have a rural home or super sensitive fusebox (trips with certain lamp failure) then these trickle charger-conditioner units revert to full flat-out charge rate irrespective of battery condition ??
Similar to Paul I'm looking at the 60 but have no desire to invest 400 quid in battery and Ctek to potentially have it cook at the first failure whilst away with work !
Must be a reasonable solution out there .... disconnection perhaps ??
Similar to Paul I'm looking at the 60 but have no desire to invest 400 quid in battery and Ctek to potentially have it cook at the first failure whilst away with work !
Must be a reasonable solution out there .... disconnection perhaps ??
where do you gather this information that CTEK is cooking the battery. It is a smart charger, once the battery is full it is full it will not overcharge why should it. I guess this is typical forum hearsaying, as mentioned before they do not like a complete discharge other than that I read plenty of reports that they last many years. Better check if your cars have leak currents that have the potential for a full discharge or better install a mains switch that will prevent this.
Fusebox about three years old Mark and only trips the RCD when a spotlamp blows.. .. spotlamps are a pain and slowly being replaced with LED or other lamp ... I understand from an electrical guru mate the problem is being only 30 mtrs from the local substation and the type of juice we receive ??
738. 3 years hmm. If I had installed 3 years ago I would not have put any lighting on RCD. The rules changed sometime around then though. I would have put in a split board. All plug circuits yes rcd, lighting no. minimum spec for a disboard now is 2 RCDs i.e. only half would go off. Top spec is a separate RCD for each circuit. i.e. you would only loose the circuit with the bulb in. My boards have no rcd for lighting just 6 amp MCBs C type. Anyway as said power cuts should not effect chargers anyway.
Steve you need to change the MCB from a B type to a C type. The bulb blowing causes a surge in current. The B type MCB is more sensitive to surges than the C type which although it has the same rating (usually 6 amp) will not trip with the surge as the bulb blows. This will need to come from a wholesaler and probably not be on the shelf. I can get one if you like usually less than a tenner. Just tell me what make. you might get it online.
spatz said:
where do you gather this information that CTEK is cooking the battery. It is a smart charger, once the battery is full it is full it will not overcharge why should it.
Same applies to the Optimate. I also have a second Optimate connected to the battery of my Ducati. The bike ( a rapidly appreciating "classic") only does about 100 miles a year, but the battery always performs as it should when called upon! Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff