Wheels rubbing on H/light pod's

[mrloudly]

The front's have caught the headlamp rear mouldings and worn through. Is this common and have the later mouldings been modified to prevent this? I seem to be getting some "graunching" from somewhere under hard cornering as well. Where would you suggest looking?

[canam-phil]

I take it that the graunching comes from the front.

If so, I had a polybush collapse and replaced the complete lower wishbone set and then no further problems.

I have rub marks on the headlamp rear covers as well so look forward to that problem developing. It has been reported on here before.

[mrloudly]

No, it sounds like it's coming from the rear.. I've had a good look around and can't see anything obvious though...

[bluesatin]

At the front body fit and tyres make a difference. It is easy to back fill the headlamp covers with grp fiber filler to stop water entering the headlamp covers.

Have you checked the rear suspension bushes?

[Ravensbabe]

I had the same problem. The body fit has to be very accurate to eliminate the problem plus a little remodelling of the lamp casing got rid of the problem

[mrloudly]

I can't see it been the bushes the car's only done 1500 miles, or are they prone to early failure? I've had it up on stands this evening and can't see anything obvious. Will have a better look in daylight.

[davefiddes]

The bushes can have problems after very few miles. The original red ones I was supplied with were from a duff batch and wore out after just 400 miles! The factory supplied hard grey plastic ones that seem to be a lot more robust and are holding up well at the rear.

You can tell if you have problems with the rear bushes if you have the car on axles stands at the back. With the handbrake on grab each rear wheel and try to rotate it back and forth. If you get a significant amount of movement (mine moved over 1/2" !!!) then you have problems. When you get the suspension apart you'll find that the bushes have gone a bit oval and may be quite a bit thinner on the faces that rub against the chassis mounts.

I'm having similar issues with my front RHS headlamp cover rubbing on full lock. Not looking foward to fixing it...

[steve_D]

I am working through the process of finding the extent of headlight cover rub.
Both now have holes about 2" diameter covered in duct tape. If further rubbing occurs it is evident on the tape so the hole is enlarged in that area and new tape applied. When there is no more evidence of rub I will replace the tape with a GRP repair.

Steve

[mrloudly]

Thanks for the bush info, I'll check later.

My headlight holes are up to about an inch dia at the moment. Has anyone discussed this problem with Ultima? As far as I'm aware it would lead to SVA?MOT failure. Maybe they have modded the moulds??

Andy

[canam-phil]

mrloudly said:

Thanks for the bush info, I'll check later. My headlight holes are up to about an inch dia at the moment. Has anyone discussed this problem with Ultima? As far as I'm aware it would lead to SVA?MOT failure. Maybe they have modded the moulds?? Andy

The rubbing was evident at SVA. The inspector didnt look for rubbing (and I watched him very carefully and he was good enough to tell me what he was doing at every stage. Thats not to say that another inspector would not check it)

What tyres are we all running when this problem shows up? Im on Pzero with 18" Oz factory rims, section as recommended. Has anyone noticed wether the demo cars show this rubbing problem? I keep meaning to have a look but always forget.

My red bush weas sh****d at 500 miles and it had been liberally greased. Replaced with the grey type. Much better. My way of discovery was with the brakes on have the car rocked forward and back with my fingers across the chassis to wishbone. The movement could be clearly felt.

[gtr-gaz]

Mine are rubbing too.
The off side more. Not quite worn through yet, but it won't be long.

Gary

[gdr]

I've worn through a headlight pod. Only get contact on full lock and should just need minor GRP repair and some trimming to get a bit of clearance. Red polyurethane bushes on rear lower wishbone (inner and outer) seem to last about 10 miles! I have grey ones in now and so far so good (done 1000 miles on these and OK).

Worn rear bushes make handling interesting but I doubt would cause the graunching unless wheel moves a lot. Check nothing loose coming into contact with wheel, brake disc or driveshaft.

[YIIHAA]

Mine rubbed with the Goodyear Fioranos, but not with Pirelli P Zeros (as they are a slightly narrower tyre). Factory told me that P zeros were a slightly better fit at the front, although consensus seems to be that the Goodyears are a better tyre.

[BigAl1]

Has anybody tried the new Michelin Pilot PS2's in 225/35-18 size for the fronts? I'm about to order these for my build, and considered this rubbing problem when determining what size to buy. These have a 24.2" overall dia, the Goodyear Fiorano 245/35-18 have 24.8" overall dia, and the Pirelli Pzero Rosso 245/35-18 have 24.5" overall dia. Obviously I'm giving up some tire width, which might help the rubbing on full lock position. Anybody have experience with these PS2's? Sizes sourced from Tirerack online.

Allan

[gdr]

I think the rubbing problem is quite minor, and careful trimming of headlight cover where it meets inside of front bodywork should stop this. Also wheel arch returns may need slight trimming but with a degree or so of -ve camber as recommended I've not had problems here. Not sure of relative grip of the narrower Michelin tyre, not necessarily less than wider Goodyear tyre, but you certainly don't want to give any grip away at front IMO.

[gtr-gaz]

This is probably a naff question but,
Why can't I raise the ride height at the front?
That would stop the headlights rubbing.

What determines the ride height and how do the factory come up with the 110mm at the front??

Gary

[davefiddes]

Messing with the ride height at the front will cause you all sorts of problems. When you realign the entire suspension you'll find that you don't have much scope for adjustment on the camber. (I know this because I jacked up the front for SVA to make it easier to get onto brake testers, ramps, etc)

Also if you jack up the front you will need to do the same at the rear to maintain the rake of the chassis. This is essential as the body/underside of the car produces a significant amount of downforce. Moving the car away from the road will also reduce the downforce.

What would be really nice is if the factory could extend the front bodywork moulds by the 1-2" needed to make the whole issue go away...

[GTRMikie]

My GTR had a graunching noise from the rear when it first hit the road and was cornered with gusto. This was caused by the inner rear wheel arch (the bit that keeps all the muck off the engine) just making contact with the tyre. This was readily cured by removing about 5mm of GRP from the lower edge of the arch. This would obviously be worse if the rear bushes were shot. I don't have any problem with the light covers. My car has the earlier style of headlights. These use a much shallower cover which, when coupled with the Pirelli P Zeros, leaves plenty of room. Unfortunately, on dip beam, these lights are useless but you can't have it all!

[steve_D]

Just remembered.
When mine first hit the road I did not hear anything from the back but did discover that the inner wheel arch was hiting the handbrake cable as the suspension went up. If that is causing your graunch then you will see the plastic covering of the handbrake cable will be damaged.
Steve

[cliveg]

Funny you should say that Steve. I noticed the same thing when fitting the rear clip on last night. Did you fix the h/brake cable into a tighter curve or is it best to remove some of the GRP?