Suspension settings
Discussion
I have the new adjustable dampers (gold in colour). Ride height set by the factory, pretty standard I think (not too low).
Initial set up was 5 clicks all round on the suspension (bump and rebound) however it has grounded at the rear about 5 times, always on motorway/dual carriageways where there is undulation rather than potholes etc.
Its not hitting the lower most chassis rail (under the sump) but it hitting the rail right at the back (as well as the bottom of the clam No issues at the front.
Has anyone else had this issue? How many clicks are others running for normal road use? The ride is certainly not remotely hard at the moment so I am quite happy to make it a bit harder.
Many thanks
Mark
Initial set up was 5 clicks all round on the suspension (bump and rebound) however it has grounded at the rear about 5 times, always on motorway/dual carriageways where there is undulation rather than potholes etc.
Its not hitting the lower most chassis rail (under the sump) but it hitting the rail right at the back (as well as the bottom of the clam No issues at the front.
Has anyone else had this issue? How many clicks are others running for normal road use? The ride is certainly not remotely hard at the moment so I am quite happy to make it a bit harder.
Many thanks
Mark
Have just worked out how to reply from my phone rather than when I get home tonight.
The movement must be significant but not the full 130mm as the lowest rail under the sump shows no signs of grounding.
The back end must be catching the peak of the bump perhaps after the suspension recoils following a dip?
Again, this is not over rough terrain, this has happened on the M1 and on other dual carriageways.
I will try to take some photos of the set up and post them. Nothing looks obviously wrong though and the car was set up by the factory.
I just wonder whether the dampers I have are much softer than the previous models used and therefore need several more clicks.
The movement must be significant but not the full 130mm as the lowest rail under the sump shows no signs of grounding.
The back end must be catching the peak of the bump perhaps after the suspension recoils following a dip?
Again, this is not over rough terrain, this has happened on the M1 and on other dual carriageways.
I will try to take some photos of the set up and post them. Nothing looks obviously wrong though and the car was set up by the factory.
I just wonder whether the dampers I have are much softer than the previous models used and therefore need several more clicks.
mt308 said:
Have just worked out how to reply from my phone rather than when I get home tonight.
The movement must be significant but not the full 130mm as the lowest rail under the sump shows no signs of grounding.
The back end must be catching the peak of the bump perhaps after the suspension recoils following a dip?
Again, this is not over rough terrain, this has happened on the M1 and on other dual carriageways.
I will try to take some photos of the set up and post them. Nothing looks obviously wrong though and the car was set up by the factory.
I just wonder whether the dampers I have are much softer than the previous models used and therefore need several more clicks.
I honestly think you are mistaking existing scraps on the rear chassis rail for this scrapping you are experiencing! For that rail to ground out, before the sump one would mean something is very wrong. For this to happen on a motorway/A road would just not make sense as the sump rail is significantly lower. I suspect possibly seat mount bolts? Although the sump rail would still be lower.The movement must be significant but not the full 130mm as the lowest rail under the sump shows no signs of grounding.
The back end must be catching the peak of the bump perhaps after the suspension recoils following a dip?
Again, this is not over rough terrain, this has happened on the M1 and on other dual carriageways.
I will try to take some photos of the set up and post them. Nothing looks obviously wrong though and the car was set up by the factory.
I just wonder whether the dampers I have are much softer than the previous models used and therefore need several more clicks.
Where in the UK are you?
Paul.B said:
I honestly think you are mistaking existing scraps on the rear chassis rail for this scrapping you are experiencing! For that rail to ground out, before the sump one would mean something is very wrong. For this to happen on a motorway/A road would just not make sense as the sump rail is significantly lower. I suspect possibly seat mount bolts? Although the sump rail would still be lower.
Where in the UK are you?
Thanks. I am near Esher in Surrey.Where in the UK are you?
I am sure it is the rear, there were no scrapes and there is now. The noise is coming from the back and sounds like the chassis hitting the road.
I agree it is very odd! From the replies I appear to have a problem that others haven't experienced. I think I will have another chat to the factory to see what they think.
F.C. said:
Stupid I know but you haven't mixed front springs with rear have you?
That would be stupid;-) but its a good point to check. I did the build myself and am pretty sure it was all clearly labelled. Maybe its not impossible that they are wrong though for whatever reason.Thanks for that, it hadn't even crossed my mind!
Mark
I would hope the factory pre IVA check would have picked that up?
Thanks for that, it hadn't even crossed my mind!
I would hope the factory pre IVA check would have picked that up?
mt308 said:
F.C. said:
Stupid I know but you haven't mixed front springs with rear have you?
That would be stupid;-) but its a good point to check. I did the build myself and am pretty sure it was all clearly labelled. Maybe its not impossible that they are wrong though for whatever reason.Thanks for that, it hadn't even crossed my mind!
barriejames said:
Mark
I would hope the factory pre IVA check would have picked that up?
Thanks for that, it hadn't even crossed my mind!
I have emailed a photo to the factory. I don't think the springs are the wrong way around and am sure this would have been picked up by them as they do give the car a very thorough check and obviously know more about them than I do!I would hope the factory pre IVA check would have picked that up?
mt308 said:
F.C. said:
Stupid I know but you haven't mixed front springs with rear have you?
That would be stupid;-) but its a good point to check. I did the build myself and am pretty sure it was all clearly labelled. Maybe its not impossible that they are wrong though for whatever reason.Thanks for that, it hadn't even crossed my mind!
Doing a bit more looking around this evening the scraping is pretty bad (bare metal exposed but not actually dented), and knowing that I built it and had't damaged it during the build, together with the scraping noise I keep getting over bumpy rods led me to the conclusion I made.
However 2 things make no sense - as many have pointed out it would be very difficult to hit the rear rail without hitting the one under the sump which is much lower, also the rear clam has a couple of small chips in the middle right next to the scraping on the chassis rail, but has no damage on the left or right where it is actually lower down than at the centre.
I will talk to the guys at the factory tomorrow. One thing I am thinking is that rubbing down and painting the damaged chassis coating will at least make it smooth again and next time I get what I think is a scrape it will then be obvious by checking whether any damage has ocurred.
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
I am loving the car by the way - performance and handling are truly mindblowing (though I have only scratched the surface so far) and it gets a great reaction on the road and at Goodwood alongside some real classics (I was parked between 2 Jaguar XJR15s at the weekend and I got as much attention if not more than they did!)
Mark
LuckyP said:
Mark,
Have you let the car be driven out of your sight? IVA onto brake tester or park it up in customer parking bay with the rear chassis member sat on a curb?
Post a pic of the scrapes and I bet we can deduce the issues.
PS I'm in Hampton Wick just up the road from Esher
Thanks, have sent you a pm as you are so local.Have you let the car be driven out of your sight? IVA onto brake tester or park it up in customer parking bay with the rear chassis member sat on a curb?
Post a pic of the scrapes and I bet we can deduce the issues.
PS I'm in Hampton Wick just up the road from Esher

The damage is akin to reversing onto a curb but I definitely haven't been near any curbs! If its not grounding i am also still getting a nasty noise over bumps.
Bopefuuly will get to the bottom of this...
Is it possible that the noise and the damage are separate issues?
Is the noise a really nasty metal on concrete noise or a deep scraping noise.
I have an issue where my rear arch inner covers aren't quite straight, so that when suspension is set soft (when the other half is a passenger) the inner arch can rub on the tyre wall, mainly around corners. Could that be the noise?
I would think if the springs were so soft that it was grounding on undulating straight roads, it must feel like a boat going around corners, wallowing.
Are the spring ratings printed on your springs, mine are but i run a different setup to yourself, that may be something very obvious to check but can be ticked off the checklist very quickly.
Why not just adjust the damper to max hardness and still see if you get the problem, you may not have any teeth left afterwards, but it may shed some light.
Dave
Is the noise a really nasty metal on concrete noise or a deep scraping noise.
I have an issue where my rear arch inner covers aren't quite straight, so that when suspension is set soft (when the other half is a passenger) the inner arch can rub on the tyre wall, mainly around corners. Could that be the noise?
I would think if the springs were so soft that it was grounding on undulating straight roads, it must feel like a boat going around corners, wallowing.
Are the spring ratings printed on your springs, mine are but i run a different setup to yourself, that may be something very obvious to check but can be ticked off the checklist very quickly.
Why not just adjust the damper to max hardness and still see if you get the problem, you may not have any teeth left afterwards, but it may shed some light.
Dave
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