Discussion
Hi Steve my views on a higher volume tank mounted as high as poss along the bulk head is more water above inlet point on engine surely is a better option as only got about half a pint above entry point to engine as is view on this greatly acepted car fine on open roads just town been a issue
5paulmv said:
Hi all anyone else had water getting to high temp while in traffic in last 2 days looking for a way round it anyone got a bigger water swirl pot fitted ? Or running no temp stat
Mine sat in traffic for 4 hours after Goodwood Supercar Sunday a few weeks ago. Cooling fans on solidly for that time, but the water temp never went above about 85 or so. I understand there can be maybe 5 degrees inaccuracy on the system? That was a fairly warm day too.Yesterday even at motorway speeds the cooling fan was staying on even though hovering just above 80 on the gauge. But not on the motorway for that long. In town I find my fans are on all the time.
5paulmv said:
Hi mt I had fan on over rideso constantly on and was pushing 105 in traffic in town soon as running in clear air back down to 70 ish my question on bigger xpansion tank sat high is cos looking at my noble the tank is 5 times bigger n mounted as high as poss never had a heat issue
Hi PaulThere is no need to use the fan override as the fans are switched on by the ecu. Temp sensor is in the inlet manifold. If you are worried by the high temps when stood still I would consider switching over to using Evans waterless coolant. It has a boiling temperature of 180 centigrade. You can also get rid of the pressure cap.
See Evans on you tube here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ
Kind regards Dave
5paulmv said:
Thanks Dave was hoping you would come on here with a answer I don't like phoning you all the time I will order the coolant how many litres would you say I need thanks again Paul
See http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/I think I used about 25l of the older NPG+ - it was more than a few years ago I filled my sports with it.
This Evans stuff won't make the engine run any cooler.
Optimal temp is generally 90 to 100 degrees, some OEM run as high as 125!
I'd be worried that I'd take it for granted, let the temp rise further than "normal" and then start to lose oil pressure because the oil is too hot!
Do yourself a favour, stick to the tried and tested method of antifreeze and water and save some money.
If you think the system is getting too hot there is usually a good reason for this.
If you think you are losing water every time you go out you should ask yourself why?
If your temp gauge is showing North of 110-115 surely you would want to stop the car and let it cool,(assuming the gauge is correct).
IMO having a boiling point of >180 would only tempt you to carry on driving and possibly do harm to your engine.
Optimal temp is generally 90 to 100 degrees, some OEM run as high as 125!
I'd be worried that I'd take it for granted, let the temp rise further than "normal" and then start to lose oil pressure because the oil is too hot!
Do yourself a favour, stick to the tried and tested method of antifreeze and water and save some money.
If you think the system is getting too hot there is usually a good reason for this.
If you think you are losing water every time you go out you should ask yourself why?
If your temp gauge is showing North of 110-115 surely you would want to stop the car and let it cool,(assuming the gauge is correct).
IMO having a boiling point of >180 would only tempt you to carry on driving and possibly do harm to your engine.
F.C. said:
This Evans stuff won't make the engine run any cooler.
Optimal temp is generally 90 to 100 degrees, some OEM run as high as 125!
I'd be worried that I'd take it for granted, let the temp rise further than "normal" and then start to lose oil pressure because the oil is too hot!
Do yourself a favour, stick to the tried and tested method of antifreeze and water and save some money.
If you think the system is getting too hot there is usually a good reason for this.
If you think you are losing water every time you go out you should ask yourself why?
If your temp gauge is showing North of 110-115 surely you would want to stop the car and let it cool,(assuming the gauge is correct).
IMO having a boiling point of >180 would only tempt you to carry on driving and possibly do harm to your engine.
I agree.Optimal temp is generally 90 to 100 degrees, some OEM run as high as 125!
I'd be worried that I'd take it for granted, let the temp rise further than "normal" and then start to lose oil pressure because the oil is too hot!
Do yourself a favour, stick to the tried and tested method of antifreeze and water and save some money.
If you think the system is getting too hot there is usually a good reason for this.
If you think you are losing water every time you go out you should ask yourself why?
If your temp gauge is showing North of 110-115 surely you would want to stop the car and let it cool,(assuming the gauge is correct).
IMO having a boiling point of >180 would only tempt you to carry on driving and possibly do harm to your engine.
Antifreeze and water wetter is all you need. If it is still getting hot you have an issue that needs sorting.
I never see more than 95 deg at the engine. I have a water-over-oil cooler on mine too. Sat in traffic the fan kicks in at 90 deg.
Paul
The more I think about this the more absurd the whole idea of waterless coolant seems, granted in a race orientated scenario there are some merits, but in day to day use I think it's a recipe to empty your pockets quickly.
If your car is "using" coolant to the point of emptying the expansion tank on a run and needs topping up each time then you HAVE to top up with the waterless coolant @ £10.00+ per litre, if you are forced to put water in as an emergency measure you have to empty the whole system otherwise you have defeated the purpose of having it in the first place.
I think I'd rather fill a litre bottle of water from my tap and keep it in the car for emergency use.
The way I see it is to prepare and run with waterless coolant is going to cost minimum £120.00, if the chap in the earlier post is correct at 25 litres capacity that figure is going to be nearer £300.00!!
The prospect of losing coolant at that price leaves me cold.
If your car is "using" coolant to the point of emptying the expansion tank on a run and needs topping up each time then you HAVE to top up with the waterless coolant @ £10.00+ per litre, if you are forced to put water in as an emergency measure you have to empty the whole system otherwise you have defeated the purpose of having it in the first place.
I think I'd rather fill a litre bottle of water from my tap and keep it in the car for emergency use.
The way I see it is to prepare and run with waterless coolant is going to cost minimum £120.00, if the chap in the earlier post is correct at 25 litres capacity that figure is going to be nearer £300.00!!
The prospect of losing coolant at that price leaves me cold.
F.C. said:
The more I think about this the more absurd the whole idea of waterless coolant seems, granted in a race orientated scenario there are some merits, but in day to day use I think it's a recipe to empty your pockets quickly.
If your car is "using" coolant to the point of emptying the expansion tank on a run and needs topping up each time then you HAVE to top up with the waterless coolant @ £10.00+ per litre, if you are forced to put water in as an emergency measure you have to empty the whole system otherwise you have defeated the purpose of having it in the first place.
I think I'd rather fill a litre bottle of water from my tap and keep it in the car for emergency use.
The way I see it is to prepare and run with waterless coolant is going to cost minimum £120.00, if the chap in the earlier post is correct at 25 litres capacity that figure is going to be nearer £300.00!!
The prospect of losing coolant at that price leaves me cold.
I spend a lot of my time working on engines and I see lots of good reasons for using waterless coolant. Considering what Ultima owners spend on their cars spending a bit on good quality fluids is no bad thing. The main temperature problem is heat soak and it's much more of an issue with a Can-Am due to lack of space under the rear clip. 25 litres of coolant in an Ultima it's not even half that. I know a few people have fitted fans to remove heat from the rear clip not a bad idea when stopped in traffic.If your car is "using" coolant to the point of emptying the expansion tank on a run and needs topping up each time then you HAVE to top up with the waterless coolant @ £10.00+ per litre, if you are forced to put water in as an emergency measure you have to empty the whole system otherwise you have defeated the purpose of having it in the first place.
I think I'd rather fill a litre bottle of water from my tap and keep it in the car for emergency use.
The way I see it is to prepare and run with waterless coolant is going to cost minimum £120.00, if the chap in the earlier post is correct at 25 litres capacity that figure is going to be nearer £300.00!!
The prospect of losing coolant at that price leaves me cold.
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