Electric master switch

[UltimaCH]

I want to install a master switch and was thinking of attaching it to the crossbrace tube in front of the battery, just above the steering rack. Second option would be to mount it on the same crossbrace in the space behind the radiator. In this case I think that clam clearance could be a problem.

Any ideas or suggestions? Photos would be great too...

Daniel

[RAT GTR]

This is how I mounted my battery disconnect. One cable goes to the cockpit, the other pull cable goes to exterior of car

[Steve_D]

Depends what you want the switch for.
If it is for emergency use then perhaps the pull cable system would be best.

If you just want to be able to isolate things from time to time or use it as an added layer of security then fitting it (as I have done) in the front of the driver’s luggage pod, in between the front clip release cables, is quite convenient.

Steve

[spatz]

Steve_D said:

Depends what you want the switch for.
If it is for emergency use then perhaps the pull cable system would be best.

If you just want to be able to isolate things from time to time or use it as an added layer of security then fitting it (as I have done) in the front of the driver’s luggage pod, in between the front clip release cables, is quite convenient.

Steve

exactly where I have put mine, you take the key with you, very difficult to steal to the car and you can still reach it easily for whatever reason. I have installed an additional main fuse just close to the battery, so the cable to the master switch is fused.

[F.C.]

Those of you with trackers / alarms and immobilisers may need to consider a "bypass" for these systems.
If the battery is disconnected it may invalidate your insurance and send "false" alerts to your tracking provider.

[UltimaCH]

spatz said:

Steve_D said:

Depends what you want the switch for.
If it is for emergency use then perhaps the pull cable system would be best.

If you just want to be able to isolate things from time to time or use it as an added layer of security then fitting it (as I have done) in the front of the driver’s luggage pod, in between the front clip release cables, is quite convenient.

Steve

exactly where I have put mine, you take the key with you, very difficult to steal to the car and you can still reach it easily for whatever reason. I have installed an additional main fuse just close to the battery, so the cable to the master switch is fused.

Thanks for the propositions and excellent ideas, but if I want to have the switch in an "easy access", it should be on the driver's side. However, as it is a LHD chassis, I would need to install an additional + cable to the master switch and back as the main + cable runs down the other side of the chassis.

Sorry if it seems stupid, but electrics is not my forte...

[3Dee]

I put together something like this about a year ago...

..and it also has a crash-cut-off solenoid. I put together a kit for about 10 other guys on here at the time.

Very please with it and works very well.

The tracker is bypassed so is 'on' all the time unless I isolate at the battery completely.
I also have a push-button isolator switch that I can easily operate near the door pillar in an emergency or if I want to leave the car in the garage for any extended period of time (tracker intact does not drain much).

If you are interested, I will dig out the data and sources and maybe some pickys tonight!

[Steve_D]

UltimaCH said:

Thanks for the propositions and excellent ideas, but if I want to have the switch in an "easy access", it should be on the driver's side. However, as it is a LHD chassis, I would need to install an additional + cable to the master switch and back as the main + cable runs down the other side of the chassis.

Sorry if it seems stupid, but electrics is not my forte...

Some say it should be the negative you isolate. Don't know the technical reason why but it would make life easier for you.
Cable from Battery neg to the isolator then onto a convenient chassis point.

Steve

[3Dee]

Steve_D said:

Some say it should be the negative you isolate. Don't know the technical reason why but it would make life easier for you.
Cable from Battery neg to the isolator then onto a convenient chassis point.

Steve

That is what I did.

[UltimaCH]

3Dee said:

Steve_D said:

Some say it should be the negative you isolate. Don't know the technical reason why but it would make life easier for you.
Cable from Battery neg to the isolator then onto a convenient chassis point.

Steve

That is what I did.

I never thought of using the negative lead. Indeed this would make things simpler.
Keith, if you could kind the details of you kit I would appreciate. Alarms and other fancy deterrents are not mandatory here, so not needed.

Edited by UltimaCH on Monday 14th October 16:39

[spatz]

Steve_D said:

Some say it should be the negative you isolate. Don't know the technical reason why but it would make life easier for you.
Cable from Battery neg to the isolator then onto a convenient chassis point.

Steve

This is definetely not a good idea since the whole chassis is tied to the ground, so talking of isolating is a good joke.
Run all the electrics over the master switch, apart from starter cable and 12V permanent power for Radio or tracker.
It is all but difficult, I have done it twice already. Put a 100-150amp fuse with holder right after the battery then
a solid battery cable (like starter cable) to the master switch in the driver side bin and then connect the loom to the switch.
This way you can nicely isolate power while working on the car and no need to remove the battery terminal.
It is evidently also a great anti theft device, as starting the car without the master switch key is quite impossible.

Edited by spatz on Tuesday 15th October 08:21

[3Dee]

UltimaCH said:

I never thought of using the negative lead. Indeed this would make things simpler.
Keith, if you could kind the details of you kit I would appreciate. Alarms and other fancy deterrents are not mandatory here, so not needed.

Edited by UltimaCH on Monday 14th October 16:39

Been a while so I have had to do some digging - Ok Here goes:

1. First Technology’s 360° Resettable Crash Sensor directly shut down the fuel pump or main contactor upon vehicle impact, reducing the risk of fire and electrical shock in post-crash situations. These devices are a low cost solution to vehicle safety requirements and approved for vehicle installation by major automotive manufacturers worldwide.

You need the 8-16g variety to prevent premature.. errrr .. you know.... thingy!
Part number: 4000085 Sensata 505 - I got mine from [e-mail] - they are not retail though... I am sure there are other outlets.. Oh! and do remember to buy the connector plug for it.



The one you need is the one with the red rubber top (TOP RIGHT) I mounted this on the cross-member in front of the battery.


2. EV 200-H battery Isolator made by Brise - you can get them direct or through Demon Tweeks and others - This I mounted on the bulkhead.



you can get the Brise latching on/off switch as well which I used for the dash isolator - very effective.

Be aware that when switched on there is a small current used for the solenoid, so switch off if leaving the car for weeks in your garage otherwise 'battery drain'!


The above two units make a very effective kill switch system, manually or automatic if the car hits something. You can wire positive or negative - I did negative for better or worse!

[UltimaCH]

Thanks Uwe and Keith for the two solutions I'll probably go for the first one as it is more in line with my very basic knowledge of electrics, specially auto sparks
Keith's option is a bit too much rocket science for me but sounds an excellent solution

[3Dee]

UltimaCH said:

Thanks Uwe and Keith for the two solutions I'll probably go for the first one as it is more in line with my very basic knowledge of electrics, specially auto sparks
Keith's option is a bit too much rocket science for me but sounds an excellent solution

Each to their own Dan!

It's actually very simple!and neat!
Chassis main ground ( where the battery goes to chassis) to Brise solenoid - Brise to Battery Neg.
Then there is a simple circuit wiring that breaks the solenoid feed if crash sensor gets bumped, or switch opened.
Simples!

Have a drawing somewhere. Takes a couple of hrs to fit all the bits.

You can also go the positive route...Info if you ask!

[UltimaCH]

Drats Keith, you are tempting me...

[anonymous-user]

That contactor is actually made by(for) Tyco, and you can get it a lot cheaper than Brize are asking (and they just stick a sticker onto it)

For example:

http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-kilovac/ev20...

If you search ebay for EV200AAANA you can often find then well under £100 if you're lucky.

The crash switch is also a std "ball and contact" automotive part, made by lucas amongst others you buy 'em direct from Ford and vauxhall dealers, or again, get yourself onto ebay!

;-)

[V8Dom]

spatz said:

Steve_D said:

Depends what you want the switch for.

exactly where I have put mine, you take the key with you, very difficult to steal to the car

those keys are all the same, so your car isn't as safe as you think!! however, I don't think anyone yet has been silly enough to steal an ultima have they?

Dom

[spatz]

sure these keys are all the same, but if you do not have one with you, you are screwed.
I am pretty sure these (boat) master switches and their related keys are not what a typical
car thief has with him...............not seen it on any production car

[V8Dom]

Max_Torque said:

That contactor is actually made by(for) Tyco, and you can get it a lot cheaper than Brize are asking (and they just stick a sticker onto it)

For example:

http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-kilovac/ev20...

If you search ebay for EV200AAANA you can often find then well under £100 if you're lucky.

The crash switch is also a std "ball and contact" automotive part, made by lucas amongst others you buy 'em direct from Ford and vauxhall dealers, or again, get yourself onto ebay!

;-)

these have gone up in price however i have one spare if anyone interested

dom