Steering track rod

[UltimaCH]

I'm wondering if I got this right, but it seems that the only way to adjust toe in/out on the front is to play around with the ball joint screwing it in our out and needing to be pulled out each time. Is this right or not?

I tried turning the rod gently with a mole grip and some protective alloy in between, but the rod which goes into the rack doesn't budge.

[Storer]

The rod from the ball joint into the rack should turn once you have slackened the lock nut at the ball joint end.
You may need a stilson spanner to turn the rod though.


Paul

[UltimaCH]

The ball joint lock nut is already slackened and it will not be tightened until the final alignment has been dialed in. I don't want to damage the rod going into the rack and a stilson spanner (pipe wrench) is some serious piece of tool. Are you sure? I would have imagined that the rod could have been manufactured with some provision to use an open ended spanner, but that's too much to ask for in a kit car...

[Storer]

If you think you can keep the car in pristine condition, forget it.

I would not want to grind flats on the rack shaft as it is weakening it. You could weld a nut at the end of the threads on the ball joint end....if there is room.

The stilson is an easy way of adjusting and a touch up with a bit of paint when adjustment is complete will prevent rust.


Paul



BTW. My largest combination spanner is 2" and I have a 1" impact wrench, so a small stilson is a child's spanner.....

[356Speedster]

UltimaCH said:

The ball joint lock nut is already slackened and it will not be tightened until the final alignment has been dialed in. I don't want to damage the rod going into the rack and a stilson spanner (pipe wrench) is some serious piece of tool. Are you sure? I would have imagined that the rod could have been manufactured with some provision to use an open ended spanner, but that's too much to ask for in a kit car...

I know what you mean, but it is what it is unfortunately. I use piece of rag to protect the rod when adjusting, but even then it does scratch the surface. A little paint will sort it tho'.

Wait until you need to adjust the camber.... you have to take the top ball joint out and can only make changes in full turns of the joint, that really is annoying!

[UltimaCH]

356Speedster said:

Wait until you need to adjust the camber.... you have to take the top ball joint out and can only make changes in full turns of the joint, that really is annoying!

That's were rose joints are handy...

[UltimaCH]

Storer said:

I would not want to grind flats on the rack shaft as it is weakening it. You could weld a nut at the end of the threads on the ball joint end....if there is room.

Paul

The extra nut spot welded on the end of the treads was a solution I was thinking of doing. Thanks for reminding me.

[GTR-P]

Try taking a strip of thin aluminum, brass or other soft metal and then bend it over the steering rod.
Use a good quality mole grip to clamp it tight and then turn the rod. The soft metal strip will act as a set of soft jaws to protect the track rod from damage.

Worked for me....

Edited by GTR-P on Thursday 30th January 23:54

Edited by GTR-P on Thursday 30th January 23:56

[UltimaCH]

GTR-P said:

Try taking a strip of thin aluminum, brass or other soft metal and then bend it over the steering rod.
Use a good quality mole grip to clamp it tight and then turn the rod. The soft metal strip will act as a set of soft jaws to protect the track rod from damage.

Worked for me....

Lucky for you.
That was the exact method I used but it didn't work. But now I realize I was using a thin trip of alloy which still had its plastic protective film. Perhaps that acted like a lubricant and stopped getting a good grip on the rod. I'll try again without the film.