Engine Decision... Your advise?
Discussion
Hello Everyone
As the engine decision nears, I am faced with a dilemma - do I go card (converted to FI) or FI:
I am NOT looking for the fastest, most HP, track warrior car - my goal is to build a street, reliable, comfortable Can AM... and try not to go over the budget the wife has approved (or this thing may not even get off the ground!)
Engine choice:
1) The 383ci (carb), and then convert it to FI using the Easy FI Self tuning kit (about $2000) - total engine cost about $12K
2) The cheapest LS engine currently available (I am guessing its the LS3 from AS) - about $17K
It seems to be that the cheaper way would be get the 383 and convert it to fuel injection - as opposed to getting an LS3 (which I know makes more power).. besides power, what OTHER advantages would I get by spending more on the LS3? Example: would it pass emissions with FI conversion? Does the LS run cooler? After conversion, would the 383 be easy to start/idle at cold temp? hot engine?
Also, speaking about engines, what are common options I should definitely look to add - eg: dry sump as recommended on another thread.
Thanks !!
As the engine decision nears, I am faced with a dilemma - do I go card (converted to FI) or FI:
I am NOT looking for the fastest, most HP, track warrior car - my goal is to build a street, reliable, comfortable Can AM... and try not to go over the budget the wife has approved (or this thing may not even get off the ground!)
Engine choice:
1) The 383ci (carb), and then convert it to FI using the Easy FI Self tuning kit (about $2000) - total engine cost about $12K
2) The cheapest LS engine currently available (I am guessing its the LS3 from AS) - about $17K
It seems to be that the cheaper way would be get the 383 and convert it to fuel injection - as opposed to getting an LS3 (which I know makes more power).. besides power, what OTHER advantages would I get by spending more on the LS3? Example: would it pass emissions with FI conversion? Does the LS run cooler? After conversion, would the 383 be easy to start/idle at cold temp? hot engine?
Also, speaking about engines, what are common options I should definitely look to add - eg: dry sump as recommended on another thread.
Thanks !!
For ease of use a fuel injected engine is the way to go. LS3 is the cheapest option and believe me 500hp is well enough, more is just bragging rights. If you want dry sump (really only needed for regular track days) then LS7 is the best option. Fuel injected engines are as eash to live with as your regular road car and just as easy to maintain. I believe that converting a carburettor engine to fuel injection after can get very expensive ie. as least as much as the extra for a fuel injected engine.
huzilulu said:
Hello Everyone
As the engine decision nears, I am faced with a dilemma - do I go card (converted to FI) or FI:
I am NOT looking for the fastest, most HP, track warrior car - my goal is to build a street, reliable, comfortable Can AM... and try not to go over the budget the wife has approved (or this thing may not even get off the ground!)
Engine choice:
1) The 383ci (carb), and then convert it to FI using the Easy FI Self tuning kit (about $2000) - total engine cost about $12K
2) The cheapest LS engine currently available (I am guessing its the LS3 from AS) - about $17K
It seems to be that the cheaper way would be get the 383 and convert it to fuel injection - as opposed to getting an LS3 (which I know makes more power).. besides power, what OTHER advantages would I get by spending more on the LS3? Example: would it pass emissions with FI conversion? Does the LS run cooler? After conversion, would the 383 be easy to start/idle at cold temp? hot engine?
Also, speaking about engines, what are common options I should definitely look to add - eg: dry sump as recommended on another thread.
Thanks !!
LS3 is a good engine.As the engine decision nears, I am faced with a dilemma - do I go card (converted to FI) or FI:
I am NOT looking for the fastest, most HP, track warrior car - my goal is to build a street, reliable, comfortable Can AM... and try not to go over the budget the wife has approved (or this thing may not even get off the ground!)
Engine choice:
1) The 383ci (carb), and then convert it to FI using the Easy FI Self tuning kit (about $2000) - total engine cost about $12K
2) The cheapest LS engine currently available (I am guessing its the LS3 from AS) - about $17K
It seems to be that the cheaper way would be get the 383 and convert it to fuel injection - as opposed to getting an LS3 (which I know makes more power).. besides power, what OTHER advantages would I get by spending more on the LS3? Example: would it pass emissions with FI conversion? Does the LS run cooler? After conversion, would the 383 be easy to start/idle at cold temp? hot engine?
Also, speaking about engines, what are common options I should definitely look to add - eg: dry sump as recommended on another thread.
Thanks !!
you can pick up a new crate engine for a hell of a lot less than AS.
If you were going to convert an SBC to Fi yourself then my guess is you will be capable of sourcing the ancillary components for an LS3 and fit it all yourself.
With the parameters for use that you have listed, there is no other answer besides an LS 3 crate motor. You can buy the 6.2 liter version versus the 5.3 for a little less than $8k. This includes the ECU for a manual transmission. A.S. has a business model that works for them, it just does not fit my reality. The engine above is 430 hp Chevy has introduced a 525 hp version and its available for 7800 for the engine but the ECU is an aditional $1198. That is the cheapest 525hp you are ever going to buy. The carb 383 converted to F.I latter is a poor second choice first and foremost at least in the states with 91-91 octane fuel your going to leave a lot on the floor because of head design cam timing and compression because of the carb. Maybe more importantly, the driveability of a factory tuned ECU versus an after market solution both in hard ware and tuning will be superior. Yes , you will need to source brackets, belts and a late model GTO pan but none of that should be more than some time on the internet for a competent shop a hundreds of dollar not thousands. Just my opinion, lee
Had I built my car from scratch (rather than be 'nuts deep' in a pre-owned project that has a 'trick' SBC) and having looked over the shoulder of Absolutions car (LS3) - I'd plumb for an LS3 crate engine. That leaves A LOT of cash to source the other spares and experience you'd need to get it working and plenty of people on here have already done it 
.
.Thank you everyone for the replies..
I 'assumed' converting the carb to FI was simpley plug and play - based on the Easy FI site - but the above replies make me feel that I may not be the right person to play around with an engine I know very little about..
LS3 it is..
Now crate or ready to go? AS is quite high on the price for an LS3.. are there other recommended engine suppliers who can fit all the ancillaries and test/dyno the engine, fix any issues, so all I really need to do is just drop it in?
I 'assumed' converting the carb to FI was simpley plug and play - based on the Easy FI site - but the above replies make me feel that I may not be the right person to play around with an engine I know very little about..
LS3 it is..
Now crate or ready to go? AS is quite high on the price for an LS3.. are there other recommended engine suppliers who can fit all the ancillaries and test/dyno the engine, fix any issues, so all I really need to do is just drop it in?
Try Jeff Schwartz for a Turn Key LS3, worth a phone call if nothing else...
http://www.schwartzperformance.com/gm-ls-engines/
Always good to phone around a few places to get quotes...
http://www.schwartzperformance.com/gm-ls-engines/
Always good to phone around a few places to get quotes...
Southern Roadcraft for the 525 Hp ls3 and run kit ( very helpful Brian) auto bionics for the ancillaries and loom, ultima factory for the fuel system and air intake, not everyone's choice, but if you want to keep it simple and reliable, it fits, works, and looks ok, might not be a lot cheaper, but you will save time, and make local contacts who are more than willing to give free advice.
Living where you do I would say you need a 'turn key' package (again). Getting parts locally will be an issue. Nearly everything will be an import and you will not be able to 'look before you buy'.
You can go American Speed or Autobionics for a turn key LS3 (there may be others). The LS engine is a 'no brainer'. In my experience it won't leak, will start every time, use less fuel, sit in traffic without issues, easy to service, etc.
You can go the DIY route but it will take longer, be slightly riskier and need more knowledge (or research). Only you can know your ability and confidence when it comes to the issues a DIY approach will throw up.
It will be cheaper to do the DIY, if you get it right first time.
One final thing to consider are your local Government requirements, primarily on emissions. The LS3 is much more likely to pass the tests.
Paul
PS. A dry sump is only required for track use.
You can go American Speed or Autobionics for a turn key LS3 (there may be others). The LS engine is a 'no brainer'. In my experience it won't leak, will start every time, use less fuel, sit in traffic without issues, easy to service, etc.
You can go the DIY route but it will take longer, be slightly riskier and need more knowledge (or research). Only you can know your ability and confidence when it comes to the issues a DIY approach will throw up.
It will be cheaper to do the DIY, if you get it right first time.
One final thing to consider are your local Government requirements, primarily on emissions. The LS3 is much more likely to pass the tests.
Paul
PS. A dry sump is only required for track use.
What he said + 1
Storer said:
Living where you do I would say you need a 'turn key' package (again). Getting parts locally will be an issue. Nearly everything will be an import and you will not be able to 'look before you buy'.
You can go American Speed or Autobionics for a turn key LS3 (there may be others). The LS engine is a 'no brainer'. In my experience it won't leak, will start every time, use less fuel, sit in traffic without issues, easy to service, etc.
You can go the DIY route but it will take longer, be slightly riskier and need more knowledge (or research). Only you can know your ability and confidence when it comes to the issues a DIY approach will throw up.
It will be cheaper to do the DIY, if you get it right first time.
One final thing to consider are your local Government requirements, primarily on emissions. The LS3 is much more likely to pass the tests.
Paul
PS. A dry sump is only required for track use.
You can go American Speed or Autobionics for a turn key LS3 (there may be others). The LS engine is a 'no brainer'. In my experience it won't leak, will start every time, use less fuel, sit in traffic without issues, easy to service, etc.
You can go the DIY route but it will take longer, be slightly riskier and need more knowledge (or research). Only you can know your ability and confidence when it comes to the issues a DIY approach will throw up.
It will be cheaper to do the DIY, if you get it right first time.
One final thing to consider are your local Government requirements, primarily on emissions. The LS3 is much more likely to pass the tests.
Paul
PS. A dry sump is only required for track use.
I think the PAN or Dry sump being mentioned is an important subject- I made that mistake.
If you don't get a dry sump be sure to source a cambered racing pan.
When you do use the Ultima at a track day event you won't be distracted by the pressure gauge dropping to 0. I would call the factory and asked them depending on your block choice if you go wet.
Surly you will use the Utima casually why it was intended/designed and that will expose this need in the first corner you come to.
Mike
If you don't get a dry sump be sure to source a cambered racing pan.
When you do use the Ultima at a track day event you won't be distracted by the pressure gauge dropping to 0. I would call the factory and asked them depending on your block choice if you go wet.
Surly you will use the Utima casually why it was intended/designed and that will expose this need in the first corner you come to.
Mike
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