First time starting with an accusump
Discussion
Does anyone know how i should prime my oil system.
The engine has a remote filter, oil cooler and accusump. The accusump is empty and will evidently take a large quantity of oil form the sump before the pressure equalises and the oil flows round the engine.
I have an oil pump drive so I can at least fill the system but can not fully pressurise the system due to the lifter galleys not being sealed during the prime.
Do I need to pre-pressurise the accusump to a few PSI ( 5-8? ) so as not to have wasted oil in the cylinder if so, to what pressure?
Any ideas?
The engine has a remote filter, oil cooler and accusump. The accusump is empty and will evidently take a large quantity of oil form the sump before the pressure equalises and the oil flows round the engine.
I have an oil pump drive so I can at least fill the system but can not fully pressurise the system due to the lifter galleys not being sealed during the prime.
Do I need to pre-pressurise the accusump to a few PSI ( 5-8? ) so as not to have wasted oil in the cylinder if so, to what pressure?
Any ideas?
Ideally you would have the accusump OFF for the first ever start of an engine. If you can't do this then put 25-30psi of air pressure in it.
The reason for this is the accusump 'takes' oil pressure from the engine initially and you REALLY don't want this on the first start up.
It's also another thing to go wrong whilst you are running around the checking temperatures, pressures, leaks, small fires etc!
Assuming you are running the car on the road then the following need not apply, but for race track use you MUST make sure the accusump has been filled and empty a few times to 'bleed' it. If you don't it will be full of air and not protect your engine (Brands Hatch 1999, repair bill £3000 straight after a £3500 engine rebuild).
The reason for this is the accusump 'takes' oil pressure from the engine initially and you REALLY don't want this on the first start up.
It's also another thing to go wrong whilst you are running around the checking temperatures, pressures, leaks, small fires etc!
Assuming you are running the car on the road then the following need not apply, but for race track use you MUST make sure the accusump has been filled and empty a few times to 'bleed' it. If you don't it will be full of air and not protect your engine (Brands Hatch 1999, repair bill £3000 straight after a £3500 engine rebuild).
You can, if you follow the Accusump instructions, pre-fill the thing 2/3rds with oil + a 50psi air charge before you first start. Only snag is it will mostly just pre-oil your oil cooler and oil pipes. It's a bit messy too.
A good bet is to pre-fill it with 50 psi of air to put it out of action for the first start. Just turning it off won't do as the electric valve supplied with an Accusump will actually fill if the pressure is higher outside than in no matter what the electrics are set to.
Cranking without fuel and plugs to get oil round the engine is a good thing too.
A good bet is to pre-fill it with 50 psi of air to put it out of action for the first start. Just turning it off won't do as the electric valve supplied with an Accusump will actually fill if the pressure is higher outside than in no matter what the electrics are set to.
Cranking without fuel and plugs to get oil round the engine is a good thing too.
adequatespeed said:
I have an oil pump drive so I can at least fill the system but can not fully pressurise the system due to the lifter galleys not being sealed during the prime.
Not quite sure what you mean by this, but Ive always got good pressure with an electric drill on both rovers and chevys, using a home made pump drive. I just keep it going until I see a good flow of oil around the top end, although never used an Accusump.
Eliot.
adequatespeed said:
.....I have an oil pump drive so I can at least fill the system but can not fully pressurise the system due to the lifter galleys not being sealed during the prime......
You can get a tool that blanks of the oil galleys as you use it. Similar to a pump drive but has sleeves strategically placed.
Steve
Thanks for all the input.
This is what I have decided based on several different proposals. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I go ahead.
1 - Push the accusump cylinder back into the reservoir using compressed air to allow 1 quart of oil (as per morosso instructions). This will get the oil level right in the sump.
2 - Fit the electric valve and install the accusump in the car but don't connect the valve.
3 - Prime with 100PSI this is more than the oil system under cranking and will stop the oil coming back into the accusump which at first pump through is likely to have lots of air in the system which is not good in the accusump cylinder.
4 - Fill the cooler with oil
5 - Fill the filter with oil.
6 - Fill pipes (the best you can)
7 - Check the oil level in the sump.
8 - connect all pipes
9 - Crank the engine over to get the oil through the system (no plugs in the engine to reduce load) or better still use a primer rod with the sleves to plug the dizzy passages
10 - stop engine
11 - plug in electric valve
12 - switch ignition on to bleed the oil from the accusump into the engine. This will get rid of any air in the accusump pipes.
13 - once empty release pressure to a 7PSI pre -charge
14 - start as normal. this will pump oil back into the accucump.
15 - run as normal then re-check oil level in sump.
>> Edited by adequatespeed on Tuesday 31st May 12:45
This is what I have decided based on several different proposals. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I go ahead.
1 - Push the accusump cylinder back into the reservoir using compressed air to allow 1 quart of oil (as per morosso instructions). This will get the oil level right in the sump.
2 - Fit the electric valve and install the accusump in the car but don't connect the valve.
3 - Prime with 100PSI this is more than the oil system under cranking and will stop the oil coming back into the accusump which at first pump through is likely to have lots of air in the system which is not good in the accusump cylinder.
4 - Fill the cooler with oil
5 - Fill the filter with oil.
6 - Fill pipes (the best you can)
7 - Check the oil level in the sump.
8 - connect all pipes
9 - Crank the engine over to get the oil through the system (no plugs in the engine to reduce load) or better still use a primer rod with the sleves to plug the dizzy passages
10 - stop engine
11 - plug in electric valve
12 - switch ignition on to bleed the oil from the accusump into the engine. This will get rid of any air in the accusump pipes.
13 - once empty release pressure to a 7PSI pre -charge
14 - start as normal. this will pump oil back into the accucump.
15 - run as normal then re-check oil level in sump.
>> Edited by adequatespeed on Tuesday 31st May 12:45
All sounds correct per the Moroso instructions. I would pay very close attention to Moroso's steps.
I don't have an Accusump. However, if it were I, I'd drop Moroso an email and ask:
"Should steps 13 and 14 be switched? It seems the pressure should be slowly released from the sump with the engine running. This would hold the pressure high for start-up, then enable refill without a drop before turning the engine off."
Probably doesn't make too much difference. But, it sounds like you are dumping the oil in, then bleeding off the pressure, then starting the engine. (?) Either way, it sounds like there will be plenty of oil in the system when started.
I don't have an Accusump. However, if it were I, I'd drop Moroso an email and ask:
"Should steps 13 and 14 be switched? It seems the pressure should be slowly released from the sump with the engine running. This would hold the pressure high for start-up, then enable refill without a drop before turning the engine off."
Probably doesn't make too much difference. But, it sounds like you are dumping the oil in, then bleeding off the pressure, then starting the engine. (?) Either way, it sounds like there will be plenty of oil in the system when started.
I'm assuming the engine has run before.
In which case I would just put in an extra 3 pints, crank it over for a bit without the ignition connected but plugs in. Connect it back up and start it. When you stop it the Accusump will be charged and you can correct the oil level.
The odd 3 or 4 pints will not be an issue for a quick run in the garage.
If the engine has not been run then I would bypass the Accusump until you have a happy engine.
Steve
In which case I would just put in an extra 3 pints, crank it over for a bit without the ignition connected but plugs in. Connect it back up and start it. When you stop it the Accusump will be charged and you can correct the oil level.
The odd 3 or 4 pints will not be an issue for a quick run in the garage.
If the engine has not been run then I would bypass the Accusump until you have a happy engine.
Steve
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