Typical pedal positions

[pb3]

I would like to gauge people’s typical pedal position setup; I am not talking about the clutch, brake and throttle pivot points but the toe ends. The pivot points are well known and I think generally pretty fixed but the throttle can be angled by adjusting the cable and the forward stop (read bolt that hits the floor). I currently, when all pedals are at rest, have all the pedal foot plates in line, but is this best? Generally the way it should be?

So is it best to have them in line or does it offer easier control if it is proud of the brake pedal (less chance of catching the accelerator when pressing the brake), I cannot heel n’ toe to save my life by the way!

The reason I am asking these questions is partly out of interest but also because I want to add an accelerator end stop to the pedal. Recently I have modified the linkage on the carb so that I require considerably less pedal travel to achieve full throttle. This is mainly because I am uhm, short, and was finding that a very unnatural stretch was required. Now with the modification I have no safe feedback of when full throttle is reached and can stress the cable/linkage at the carb end.

[stig]

I keep the throttle and brake in line which I find most comfortable heel and toeing. It's a useful skill to learn especially with large displacement engines that have alot of interia. Much more balanced into corners.

[steve_d]

I think mine are in line but will look later.

There should already be a full throttle stop mounted on the horizontal chassis tube that the cable comes down through. The back of the throttle pedal top should meet it. Because it's at the top you will not be putting a bend in the lever when 'pedal to metal'. I doubt it has the range of adjustment you require so a mod will be required.

Steve

[pb3]

Thats basically the problem, in that the pedal goes back and touches the chassis (before the mod I made at the carb end). But for me that is too much travel and hurts my accels badly. I now have about 2/3 of the original travel for idle to full throttle, which works fine except the stop is now the carb and not the chassis!

[menostig]

How did you modify at the carb end ? I as yet haven't had more than 70% full throttle due to insufficient pedal/cable travel. Obviously I've adjusted the throttle pedal to allow it, but then it was so far up I'd hit it when I went for the brakes... so that was reset.

[pb3]

Roger

All I did was to move the cable connection point on the throttle linkage closer to the centre (the arm that controls the choke flaps), so less pedal travel is required. I did this may making a small plate out of 3mm aluminium that attaches to the linkage via two 5mm bolts and nuts. I then tapped a 5mm hole in this plate to receive a bolt that allows the clevis to be attached. The real trick is to get that hole in the right place. Initially I made up a quick and dirty plate and guessed, actually the first try was fine so I transferred it to a nice piece.

Hope that helps some, I will try and get a pic at some point.

[B1 ECC]

My pedals are almost inline, the throttle pedal slightly lower, i find when you heel & toe this helps because you have moved the brake downward no matter how solid the pedal! On another note, if you have the bolt through the pedal as a stop---remove it, and put the bolt through the floor. I had a very small stone lodge itself under the end of the pedal mounted bolt at Oulton Park, you dont need 4000 unwanted rpm when you are trying very hard to scrub off 100mph !

[craig-ultima]

Ian, thats a smart idea. Next time the car is up, I'll make that mod.

[pb3]

Ian, that is a good point and got me thinking (worrying) a little. I might do something slightly different in that I may bond a spacer to the floor (say 5mm thick) to take up some of what the adjuster bolt does already (so it will have to be backed off 5mm in effect). This would save drilling a hole in the “right place” and make it pretty impossible for a stone to lodge on top of the spacer.