Top door hinge failure

[pb3]

While standing in the engine bay (as you do) and opening the drivers door I noticed some play in the top hinge. Unfortunately this looks like the metal (female threaded) part in the door has come lose. That is a real pain as the only way I can see to fix it is to cut around it removing the fibreglass on the inside and re-fixing and making good.

It is possible this hinge has been stressed more since I added a soft 3mm foam strip to stop wind noise 16 months ago. I know I am not the only person to do this so has anybody else seen the same issue? And if not be warned.

I guess I really should try and fix this ASAP as I can just picture the door departing company at 178mph at RAF Marham in April, see some of you there!

Phil.

[luckyp]

Just fitted the top hinges last night. The ali insert (hinge carcass) is provided pre-drilled (4mm) to (not)fit the the 5mm domed Allen key bolts. There were no holes in the door frame so I called the factory. This area is fibreglass, there is no ali or steel in there so with care I had to drill and tap. The gel is about 4mm thick then you are through into normal fibreglass.

So this might be why they are loose - you only have fibre glass female threads, or at best fibreglass filler.

Reckon you'd be best off cutting out and filling back in.

Cheers

Pete

[pb3]

It sounds like you insert is different to mine. Mine are 5mm female threads in the door. That part, that you insert your 5mm rod end into, is part of a bigger piece which is a roundish plate with holes in it. I know all this because while doing the body fit I repositioned the passengers side as it seemed to be in slightly the wrong place for a good fit. To do that side I had to first dig it out and re-fibreglass it in and then filler the outer to get the required humped profile - a real pain. I am just intested to know if anybody has a loose hinge after some use. I can see no alternative but to now do the drivers side in the same way!

[bigmack]

It would definitely be advisable to have a metal insert of some kind for the female thread. Fiberglass and gelcoat are not meant to secure a fastener. I have an older sport and cannot offer any assistance I'm afraid, but I'm sure you can engineer something up that will be suitable and strong. Preferably you'd want some kind of backing plate, but I'm not sure how the rod end attaches to the door. Maybe you could post a photo?
Cheers!
-Mack

[ultimichael]

Phil means the round plate with holes with a welded on female thread that is glassed in between
the outer and inner door shell.
I also had to reposition this plate at my drivers side (left) and found that it was only
partially glassed in. I can image it can break loose after some usage.
Maybe it can be fixed by drilling a small hole in the inner door shell and inject resin
mixed with glass micro balloons with a one way shot.
The door should be positioned with the hinge down to prevent the resin from creeping away.
A greased bolt should be in the thread to protect it.

Michael

[pb3]

Well described, from someone who has seen it in the flesh. I think the only real way to make sure is rebound the whole plate by having full access.

I also had the front clip hinge insert go in a similar way but that is easy to fix by a mile, and was probably due to my heavier than usual front clip.

[steve_d]

pb3 said:

Well described, from someone who has seen it in the flesh. I think the only real way to make sure is rebound the whole plate by having full access. I also had the front clip hinge insert go in a similar way but that is easy to fix by a mile, and was probably due to my heavier than usual front clip.

You're not alone. I have also had the clip hinge point rip out on the rear clip.
Worthwhile heads-up for everyone to add this check in their service routine.

Steve

[brdee]

Does anyone know what the factory's position is on this since it seems from customers experiences to be a bit of a weak-spot?

[steve_d]

brdee said:

Does anyone know what the factory's position is on this since it seems from customers experiences to be a bit of a weak-spot?

In fairness to the Factory, and the design, it was the captive nut itself that failed.

It consists of a standard nut resistance welded to a steel disc peppered with holes for the resin to flow into and grip. I have deduced that the nut broke away from the disc first and the resultant free movement broke up the GF in the surrounding area.

Steve