Dry sump tank location on LHD center shift car
Discussion
I was just talking to Builder (Scott) about this recently, and he says it should easily fit just behind the rear-bulkhead (or thereabouts), next to the engine, which makes sense to me. ...depends on whether you have some customized (non-Factory) stuff residing there already though, of course. Scott should be able to tell you more than me, though.
I have both a dry sump system and an accusump, so there is quite enough room.
Check out my build site at www.craig-ultima.com which has alot of photos. Email me if you want specific info...
Check out my build site at www.craig-ultima.com which has alot of photos. Email me if you want specific info...
Hey there Ken! Glad to hear that your enjoying the car and have got that carb sorted out. I remember talking to you a long...long...time ago about that issue and it sounds like you've come up with a solution to the engine dying with a carb fitted. Glad to hear it.
I've basically decided that my car should be a track day car and I really don't care to drive it on the street(which I never did much anyway (6 years and only 600 miles on the engine)).
I too am looking at possibly going dry sump with the next engine that I build. Finding a spot for that dry sump tank can be difficult with both fuel tanks in the side pods. A lot of the older race cars ran the oil tank in one side pod and a fuel tank in the other. I believe Palmer's Sports had a special tank made up that was mounted up front in the steering box area somewhere. These cars have about a 39%/61% weight split and anything that can be placed up front like that will help. It would also be a LOT of work to say the least. The factory can chime in but I've seen the factory cars, that do have dry sump tanks, mounted next to the transaxle(left or right side) opposite of the gear linkage. I've not had a problem with losing oil pressure with my accusump and a wetsump yet, but then again I'm really not a good enough driver yet to push the envelope. You've been tracking cars for a long time.
By the way, I need to get you down to Texas again for a track day at Texas World Speedway in college station! You'd have a blast.
Cheers!
-Mack
I've basically decided that my car should be a track day car and I really don't care to drive it on the street(which I never did much anyway (6 years and only 600 miles on the engine)).
I too am looking at possibly going dry sump with the next engine that I build. Finding a spot for that dry sump tank can be difficult with both fuel tanks in the side pods. A lot of the older race cars ran the oil tank in one side pod and a fuel tank in the other. I believe Palmer's Sports had a special tank made up that was mounted up front in the steering box area somewhere. These cars have about a 39%/61% weight split and anything that can be placed up front like that will help. It would also be a LOT of work to say the least. The factory can chime in but I've seen the factory cars, that do have dry sump tanks, mounted next to the transaxle(left or right side) opposite of the gear linkage. I've not had a problem with losing oil pressure with my accusump and a wetsump yet, but then again I'm really not a good enough driver yet to push the envelope. You've been tracking cars for a long time.
By the way, I need to get you down to Texas again for a track day at Texas World Speedway in college station! You'd have a blast.
Cheers!
-Mack
The carb is absolutely bullet proof in hard stops if....you form a slosh tube with a high arch. Used a 3/8" fuel hose to connect the bowel vents together and cut a couple of vents in the top of the resulting arch.
I can slide the car to a stop on dry pavement and the motor keeps running.
I hope that I've remedied the oil problem by recharging the accusump. Thus far it's a go. If not I'll spring for one of those Moroso 6"diameter tanks and wait for 6 months for a custom dry sump pan that will fit an alloy dart block.
What ever you do, don't but a dart alloy block, standard small block chevrolet pans will not fit this motor.
If I drove this car to TX I would never be able to hear anything again.
Again, thanks for showing me your car, it looked great then and still does.
ken
I can slide the car to a stop on dry pavement and the motor keeps running.
I hope that I've remedied the oil problem by recharging the accusump. Thus far it's a go. If not I'll spring for one of those Moroso 6"diameter tanks and wait for 6 months for a custom dry sump pan that will fit an alloy dart block.
What ever you do, don't but a dart alloy block, standard small block chevrolet pans will not fit this motor.
If I drove this car to TX I would never be able to hear anything again.
Again, thanks for showing me your car, it looked great then and still does.
ken
k wright said:
The carb is absolutely bullet proof in hard stops if....you form a slosh tube with a high arch. Used a 3/8" fuel hose to connect the bowel vents together and cut a couple of vents in the top of the resulting arch..............ken
How high is the arch.
I have fitted a similar tube but the arch limit is the available space under the air cleaner cover i.e. not much.
Steve
After a great deal of time on this subject I'm going with a dry sump system. The only place that I can put a tank on my car (LHD, center shift) is above the trans-axle. Talked with Weaver Brothers and Canton. Both say no problem as long as a ball valve is placed in the return line and it is closed while the car sits. Ferrari also placed the oil tank above the motor in the 355, this is why you have to start and run the motor and quickly after shut off check the oil level. Otherwise the "level" will read too low.
After tuning the carb up it is no longer the limiting factor on extreme stops, the wet sump is. I really hate to add all of this stuff to the car but it is easier than replacing the motor.
After tuning the carb up it is no longer the limiting factor on extreme stops, the wet sump is. I really hate to add all of this stuff to the car but it is easier than replacing the motor.
k wright said:
Again continued work on this; going with the cable shifter made by California Motorsports. Called them up to make the arrangements and found out that Roger Brown from Powerhaus II is now working there.
ken
Since the LS7 has oil ports on the bottom right side, I will probably put the external oil system components over there too. It won't be too long now before I have a roller !!!!!!!!!! ken
Nice picture above!
I have the CMS cable shift, too. Ken, what shifter are you using? CMS said they are making one. I don't know if it's ready yet.
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