Accelerator Cable routing
Discussion
Hi,
I am about to fit the Factory Accelerator cable, which according to the factory instructions passes through the frame from the mounting point (ally Bracket) and then over down behind the side pods etc etc.
Has anyone tried/ thought of drilling the main side tubing just as this member leaves from under the dash to accept the cable and passing the cable all the way back inside the tubing and out into the engine compartment?
Seems a neater solution, although I am not sure if the curve needed would be too tight for the cable to operate properly?
Any thoughts guys?
I am about to fit the Factory Accelerator cable, which according to the factory instructions passes through the frame from the mounting point (ally Bracket) and then over down behind the side pods etc etc.
Has anyone tried/ thought of drilling the main side tubing just as this member leaves from under the dash to accept the cable and passing the cable all the way back inside the tubing and out into the engine compartment?
Seems a neater solution, although I am not sure if the curve needed would be too tight for the cable to operate properly?
Any thoughts guys?
Mine is std factory routing. Ally bracket, front top chassis member, long radius back down to luggage pod. Tucks in there nicely between the two air con hoses and then out at the engine bay end. All easily accessable and visible for peace of mind.
It would be neater inside the chassis, but I'm trying to avoid any extra chassis drilling
Pete
It would be neater inside the chassis, but I'm trying to avoid any extra chassis drilling
Pete
Dr Peter said:
Has anyone fitted a push / pull cable.
I'm not a fan of the bike leaver type cable.
How do you mean? The standard factory cable is stiff enough to be push/pull, but this caused me sticky throttle problems (despite 2 return springs on the pedal and a further 2 at the carb end!). That's why I sourced the teflon lined version which is now available from the factory.
I had sticky throttle problems and a Teflon lined cable solved this.
The standard cable tended to stick once car was hot which caused erratic idle problems. When the car was in the garage I usually had the rear hood open trying to find what the problem was but “Sods Law” it never happened. Probably because although engine was hot the under bonnet temperatures were predictably lower. Changing the cables was instant fix.
It is a no brainer for me - Teflon lined cable every time. It's not much fun when throttle sticks open unexpectedly approaching a "T" junction.
The standard cable tended to stick once car was hot which caused erratic idle problems. When the car was in the garage I usually had the rear hood open trying to find what the problem was but “Sods Law” it never happened. Probably because although engine was hot the under bonnet temperatures were predictably lower. Changing the cables was instant fix.
It is a no brainer for me - Teflon lined cable every time. It's not much fun when throttle sticks open unexpectedly approaching a "T" junction.
ultimad said:
Has anybody else had sticky throttle problems with the standard cable ?
Only when I power washed the engine and some water went down between the inner and outer. When I went back to start the car a couple of days later, the throttle was siezed solid! I must admit the teflon lined replacement is better than the original.
Dr Peter said:
The push pull type I am thinking about maybe called something else.
Basicly it's stonger, does not have any slack and has better adjustment, so the feel is spot on.
The only problem is on the road when you hit a bump you go a bit faster, but I'd rather have that and more feel.
The old style factory supplied cable was like that.
if you run the cable loose inside the chassi tubing i would be concerned about it ratleing around. i have had a few bikes that run cables like that and even my current downhill bike (orange222) with a hydralic line running inside the tube still ratles, would probably be ok if you filled the tube with some expanding foam though
Just replaced my cable last month. I went for a teflon lined cable assembly that I built myself. I bought the cable housing, a teflon inner-sleeve, and wire and cut it to proper length. I noticed that my old cable housing had burned where it touched the motor and to help with heat I purchased some bright orange fireproof sleeve that goes over the cable housing in the engine bay. This new cable has a more positive feel due to the teflon liner but I haven't had any trouble with it sticking. I'm told by the guys at the track that the teflon does break down after a few years and will need replacing again at some point.
Cheers!
-Mack
Cheers!
-Mack
ezakimak said:
if you run the cable loose inside the chassi tubing i would be concerned about it ratleing around. i have had a few bikes that run cables like that and even my current downhill bike (orange222) with a hydralic line running inside the tube still ratles, would probably be ok if you filled the tube with some expanding foam though
Hmmmmm! -
......Naaah! 
....Then I would then be very worried about EXPLODING RIVVETS! just like Crafty!
Verrrry sorry all! - could not resist that one!
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff